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My American Std/Trane heat pump model#WCX036A100BB keeps freezing up at the internal coils & compressor tubes. I had someone out the other day, who topped it off with R22. It wasn't that low, according to him. I have cleaned both the inner coils and the external. It is a package unit, so essentially both are external. But I am referring to the coils that the return air goes through (same compartment as the blower fan). It still blows cold, then freezes after a couple hours of running. Checking the "fan run capacitor" was suggested by a friend. Any other ideas?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I have a trane XL 1600 heat pump pkg unit the coil

The coil will freeze when the system is low on R-22. The system is low because someone never fully charged it and/or it has a leak...

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

SOURCE: Unit is running, but is no longer cooling. Fan is

not sure if it is a package system or a split but this is what you do.go outside where your outdoor machine is, after it has been shut off for awhile, and you should hear 2 distinct noises.1 is the outdoor fan, you should see it spinning.the other is a comppressor hum.some compressors have noise bags on them so listen closely thru the fan noise.if you hear no hum listen for a hum about every 2 to 5 minutes.if you hear this hum every so often, chances are you compressor is seized or stuck.the only thing to do there is get a tech and try a big boost to get it going.

Posted on Aug 08, 2009

  • 1515 Answers

SOURCE: Armstrong Heat pump Package Unit, Model#1B36DA-9B,

Hi, the outdoor unit will start to freeze when it is cold outside, but also it should go into a defrost mode to melt this ice either by the defrost board or defrost thermostat. You will know as steam will rise like smoke and some folks think it is on fire. If it never goes into defrost, get back to us and we can go through some things to check. Merry Christmas,

Posted on Dec 24, 2009

  • 1515 Answers

SOURCE: i have an 80,000 btu ruud furnace and a trane

Hi, here are a few things that will cause a unit to ice up, and I see you have checked some, but I will go through it. Not enough air flow across the indoor evaporator coil, a dirty evaporator coil, lets say the filter had not been changed by the previous owners the dirt will cave the filter in and collect a sheet of dirt over the coil. This is the hardest coil to check and clean, but I have cleaned many of them to stop the ice build up. You say the unit has been cleaned. As far as the fan motor, it must be plugged into the high speed terminal on the circuit board in the indoor unit. This motor that was replaced should have 3- speeds. High is used for cooling and low for heating. You will see the other leads wire tied together out of the way. Colors depend on the motor for speeds, but will tell you if you are able to slide the blower out enough to see the data plate on it. White or yellow are normally L-1 or L-2, speeds are normally blue, red, and black. The wires may also be marked for what speed they are. Look on your board and you will see where the wire for the blower speed connects, it will say HI and LO. When you check these, turn it on and you can tell if the motor is running higher or lower then before. It will switch over speeds automatically to heat when its winter through the board. Motors are different in wires they use for speed colors or I could tell you, and its not the oem motor ( factory ). Blue is normally med., low is red, and high would be black, but like I say, yours may be different. Anyway, the speed, dirty coil, low on freon charge is # 1 cause. Also, make sure you don't have another filter somewhere in the home ceiling or in the retrun air stream somewhere hiding. If you were able to put a set of gauges on the unit, it would tell you right away if this coil was dirty enough to cause it to ice as the low pressure would be down to around 30 p.s.i.and a normal head. Low on freon would be a low high side and low side pressures. Check your suction line at the outdoor unit, the insulated larger of the 2-lines for ice. If you have ice there when all is melted off first, and it starts to ice there, its probably low on charge. You have a 80,000 btu furnace, but if you look at the model number on the outdoor trane, it would tell me the size of it. You will see a number such as this, 024, 030, 036, 042, 048, and 060. This will tell you the tonnage of the condenser trane unit. Here's how to figure it. There are 12,000 btu's per ton of cooling. Look at the numbers and find yours. multiply 12x2=24 a 2- ton unit, 30 a 2 1/2 ton, a 5 ton unit would be a 060. I just wanted to teach you more then anyone else will no unless they were a service tech. Why I wanted to no the tonnage is to know if the unit has a TXV ( Thermostatic Expansion Valve ) for metering freon into the coil or a fixed device. If the TXV happens to get a restriction, it will cause the indoor coil to be starved of freon and not flooded as it should be and ice up. This is rare unless at the factory when brazing a tiny piece of solder is floating around and plugged it up. I have seen this. About all that you can do on your own, is to make sure the fan is on high. The connectors at the ends will have a plastic cover over them to prevent shorts. All you need to do is unplug 1-wire and plug another in. If not sure, do each one from motor and test by hearing. You may have a door or panel switch on the perimeter that will kill power when removed. If so, tape it down to restore power. Make sure the indoor coil has no insulation stuck on it, this happens, the new blower motor is OK. The best way to de-ice a coil if you have a gas furnace is to turn on the heat! This will melt the ice off very fast so you have flow again until you find the problem. This is when you want to check the outdoor lines when all is defrosted. If it starts to ice when you turn it on, more then likely you are low on charge. I am sorry for such a long solution, I do this to try and teach the owner a little about there units and how they work. Please be kind when you rate me, this would be very good of you. I will be here if you need me. Keep me posted.
PS If at all possible, make sure you have no return air ducts that have been flattened by a cable man or phone man. This is a big problem here where I live. Thay will put there knees on it or crawl on it and restrict the air coming back causing it to ice also. Think back if any one was under or in attic, where ever they are. Also, cats will rip them open and other critters. Just covering all the bases.
A/C & Heating Contractor

Posted on Jul 02, 2010

SOURCE: I have a trane XR12

Hello Rich,NO you have a dual capasitor that runs both fan & compressor motors.Shut it down and let it cool off.You need the uf rate numbers & the volt rating of the existing cap (printed on the side)to get EXACT replacement.The wires plug in to the top termanls C, HERM &FAN.Worth fixing good luck.

Posted on Jul 29, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for your help and a quick response. The problem was the capacitor. $30.00 to fix the problem! You saved me a lot of time and money!"

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I have a American standard ac model 7A0018-60A100A and would like to know the model no. of the condenser fan motor so I can replace it

All you need to know is that it is a 1/4 hp, 825 rpm. 1/2 inch shaft. That is if you are going to buy an after market motor. I have had to make new mounting holes when using after market motors on trane systems (just the way trane is) but not a problem. If you're getting it from trane you would only need the model number of the condenser.

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Brand New 2 weeks old 4 ton Trane compressor leaks a lot of water onto pad

If the unit is running in cold weather than there is ice building up on the coils located outside. This is normal in that the unit is running in heat pump mode heating inside and cooling outside, After the unit detects the ice build up it briefly reverses the cycle heating the outside coils melting(defrosting) the ice which you observe as water on the pad.

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Why does my A/C condenser compressor turn on and off every 5 minutes?

You need good airflow across the indoor coil, the evaporator. Air warms the refrigerant. If there is no airflow, the refrigerant will come back out freezing cold (in liquid form) and can damage the compressor valves. Before charging any ac unit, good airflow must be checked for across both evaporator and condensor.
Too much, overcharging will cause freezing all the way back to the compressor in a capilary tube type of ac.
Where is it the refrigeration lines are freezing cold?

Apr 28, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

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Take a look at this YouTube page that explains with good videos what are some of the common problems with heat pump noise. The one that seems dominant is the defrost cycle a heat pump goes thru when it melts ice off the evaporative coils. In defrost cycle, The compressor runs but the cooling fan does not, so you will hear a loud buzzing sound and the unit sounds like it is stalled...because only the compressor is running to generate heat to melt coil ice.
Defrost cycle noise video:

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Why does it shut off after it starts ? 2a6b3060a1000a american standard

It sounds like a stuck reversing valve stuck in heating mode based on a hot refrigerant line.
It could be stuck in the heat position because it isn't receiving 24 volts to operate, or it could be stuck internally.
Tapping on the copper tubes on the reversing valve sometimes frees one that is stuck internally. It is copper so don't get carried away or you will destroy the reversing valve.
Did you feel the temperature of both copper lines?
If the reversing valve is stuck in heat, during the winter, your heat pump will ice up, because it isn't reversing to cool as it should when it calls for the defrost cycle to occur.
Google "heat pump reversing valve" to see what one looks like
You'll need to use a voltmeter to verify that the reversing valve is receiving twenty four volts.
Pull the two wires at the reversing valve coil and check for 24 volts.
If you don't have 24 volts there when you put the unit in cooling cycle,you either have defective thermostat wiring, or a defective thermostat.
If you have 24 volts you will need to check the electrical coil that the two wires plug into.
Set the voltmeter to ohms, and make contact with the meter leads onto the terminals of the coil. One lead goes on one terminal and one lead on the other terminal at the same time, to check for continuity. You should get an ohm reading. That means the coil is good.

If the meter indicates "0" ohms the coil is shorted and needs replacement.
If the meter doesn't read any ohms at all that means that the coil is burnt out and needs replacement

When the reversing valve is activated there will be a "whoosh" sound you can clearly hear if you are near the outdoor unit.

You can order the A/C parts you need online unless you have friend that is a HVAC tech and he could get one from the Trane supply house.

It is a big job to replace the reversing valve involving freon removal and brazing. Hopefully you will find the problem in the wiring, Thermostat, or the reversing valve coil.

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My ac system has a model#44408 hunter thermistat and a trane heat pump. The system runs but does not change the temperature to cool the home to a comfortable temperature. is the problem in the thermistat...

You have refrigerant leak or the compressor has died...not a thermostat problem...
You will need to get a tech. to take a look at it.

Here is a tip about troubleshooting your airconditioner...
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1 Answer

I have a small house with a outside package unit American standard (Trane) Model# WCM030F100BB, italso says BAYHTRN110A. When I select cold from the off position on the thermostat it immediately pops the...

I would check the outdoor unit, Trane uses "Sump Heaters" on their compressors
and when one fails it will blow fuses at the disconnect or trip breakers.
The sump heater is a small metal pencil sized item at the bottom of the compressor
with something that looks like lamp cord going to it. Also when the start capacitor
fails it will exhibit this symptom. Look at the can shaped items inside the cover
If they are leaking, or bulged this may also be the problem.
(with the breakers off to everything including the inside unit to prevent shorting
the transformer)
These are the most common problems and the parts are less than 20 dollars each.
I service 155 trane units at my properties.
hope this helps.

Mar 19, 2011 | American Standard Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Its very loud when the compressor turns on

this is not good. generally when a compressor gets loud it is under stress! Number one it is under stress is Low oil! due to wash out from slugging the compressor housing with liquid refrigerant. this happens when you leave your filter clogged and dirty, reducing the airflow that the coil needs to absorb heat from your airstream. The heat over / through your coil evaporates the refrigerant in the copper tubing that is being pumped from the compressor. It is supposed to be a cool vapor as it returns to the compressor towards the end of the cycle not a liquid. No air evaporation. the coil freezes and keeps building until you have a solid block of ice on your coil and out to the compressor. during this process the oil is being washed out of your compressor making it louder and harder to start on an off cycle. There are other reasons for low air flow but this is number one. Low voltage can also make your unit start harder. You may also be experiancing noise transmission if you have a brick or stone house and the copper tubing is touching the brick or morter.

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I have a trane XL 1600 heat pump pkg unit the coil freezes up the filter is new and the fan is running any ideas

The coil will freeze when the system is low on R-22. The system is low because someone never fully charged it and/or it has a leak...

Jun 28, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

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