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My Model as a HBC45SB. I have been waiting nearly 4 months for a stud bolt for the bumper head. This is item number 13 of Fig 6 in the Manual. Why does it take so long to servicea customer. Take from a new machine and send it to me.

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  • John Morgan Aug 03, 2013

    The hand book has two models listed HBC45SB/HBC52SB. Go to page 15 and under description the item is number 13 Connector. THis is the same for both models.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get 2 Free calls (no credit card required) and instant help on almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, appliances, handyman, and even pets).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: torque settings for the head bolts on a 1984 xc 125 husky

The stud is 8mm with 1.25 thread. the torque, according to the service manual, is 19.6 to 21.6 Nm or 2.0 to 2.2 Kgm or 14.5 to 15.9 lb/ft.. It all depends on your favorite language.

Please take a moment to rate this answer. Thanks silverfernwe!

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

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  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: I have a HEC1050W I bought it new 6 months ago we

It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.


  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Posted on May 07, 2009

woobie dog
  • 1273 Answers

SOURCE: broken 11mm stud in a 3 1/8 inch deep hole

First of all, put penetrating oil on it, and let it soak. Tapping distributes the penetrant better.
If there is still a shoulder of the bolt exposed, you may be able to get it started moving with a small pipe wrench. A hammer helps the pipe wrench. If there is more room, use the largest pipe wrench that you can fit on it.
There are also grippers available (Sears) that work on rounded nuts, this may work.
The next option would be to drill the bolt and use an ease-out to remove it.
After this would be to drill the entire bolt out and install a heli-coil so that an new bolt can be installed.
Best regards. Hope this helps. --W/D-- please feel free to rate this solution! Thanx!

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

  • 269 Answers

SOURCE: on my 1991 FXRS, one of the cylinder studs was

Torque is not impacted by length of stud. Torgue is just that, the force on the material. Now if there are retainers or keepers, or something llike that used on the stud then being too tall may have an impact. Be absolutely sure to use a thread locker on these parts, something like Loctite, etc.
Hope this helps.


JP

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

milten1
  • 1304 Answers

SOURCE: MODEL JEC9530 CUSTOM CONTROL ELEMENT TURNS OFF

i would start with the infinite switch itself
you can find this part at appliance parts pro one word dot come
type in your model number
your looking for part number
AP400965 they are currently in stock
unfortunatley it is expensive around 150.00
tell them your a servicer
working for myyellowdog
it may get you a discount
have a great day

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

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What does the control arm on the front left driver side supposed to look like fully assembled


Hello! First diagram is the lower...Second is the upper..Guru...saailer

LOWER IDENTIFICATION:




Item
Part Number Description 1
5495 Stabilizer Bar Link Bolt and Bushing Assembly 2
18A192 Nut, Washer and Bushing Assembly 3
808264 Bolt 4
5005 Frame 5
5B326 Torsion Bar (LH) 6
5B327 Torsion Bar (RH) 7
620481 Nut 8
5C491 Nut and Washer 9
3079 Front Suspension Lower Arm (LH) 10
3078 Front Suspension Lower Arm (RH) 11
3A130 Tie Rod End 12
808166 Nut 13
808167 Nut 14
5K483 Front Stabilizer Bar Link 15
5482 Front Stabilizer Bar 16
5484 Front Stabilizer Bar Bushing 17
3B353 Front Stabilizer Retainer 18
N807396-S100 Bolt A
- Tighten to 40-55 Nm
(30-40 Lb-Ft) B
- Tighten to 150-200 Nm (111-148 Lb-Ft) C
- Tighten to 21-29 Nm
(15-21 Lb-Ft)


UPPER IDENTIFICATION:
Item Part Number Description 1 3C156 Damper Assembly (RH) 2 805348 Nut and Washer 3 - Shock Absorber Insulator
(Part of 18198) 4 3C157 Damper Assembly (LH) 5 3020 Front Suspension Bumper 6 3083 Front Suspension Upper Arm Assembly A - Tighten to 34-47 Nm
(25-35 Lb-Ft)



LOWER DIAGRAM FOLLOWED BY UPPER:

2_12_2012_9_47_51_pm.gif2_12_2012_9_54_26_pm.gif

Feb 12, 2012 | 1996 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

How to remove a starter in 1987 ford taurus?


Underneath the car, for a front wheel drive, it will be toward the front of the engine a long cylinder shaped part with another cylinder with wires going onto it. take the wires off first, paying close attention to their placement, then you remove the mounting bolts and pull it out, it's that easy dude, you can also find a video on how to do it on youtube.

Jun 09, 2011 | 1987 Ford Taurus

3 Answers

Apparently the serpentine belt was thrown off my 1998 Mercury Mystique. It appears in good condition. Should it be replaced or can it be reused? Also, do you have a belt diagram? Thank-you.


You can reuse it. But you need to find out why it was thrown off. Check all the pullies by grabbing them and checking for side to side movement, With the exception of the power steering pump pulley (which has some in and out play) they all should have no play. Just turn in nice smooth circles. Sorry I don't have the diagram, but there should be one under the hood. Sometimes on the bottom of the hood.

May 22, 2011 | Mercury Mystique Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need to replace the alternator. How difficult is it going to be. Am I going to have to move things out of the way to get to it or is it fairly accessible?


Hi, yes, this is a pretty big job but not really hard. You have to jack up the car and go in through the wheel well to get the alternator out. Fortunately, there are good instructions at autozone.com, which I have pasted below. Please let me know if you have any questions and thanks for using FixYa.


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION See Figures 2 through 11

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the serpentine drive belt.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  4. Remove the right front wheel from the vehicle.
  5. Remove the right wheel inner fender splash shield.
  6. If equipped, remove the alternator dust shield attaching bolt and unclip the shield from the alternator. When removing the dust shield, be careful not to damage the rubber boot over the battery's positive terminal.
  7. Disengage the alternator field wire connector.
  8. Remove the retaining nut and wire from the positive (B+) terminal on the back of the alternator, using alternator output stud wrench SA9401C or equivalent, as a back-up wrench to prevent the stud from rotating. If the positive terminal stud rotates, the plastic insulator will crack or break, causing alternator failure.
  9. Remove the upper and lower alternator attaching bolts.
  10. Remove the alternator from the vehicle through the wheel well opening.

To install:
  1. Position the alternator in the vehicle and install the lower attaching bolt.
  2. Install the upper attaching bolt and tighten both bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
  3. Engage the alternator field wire connector.
  4. Install the B+ terminal wire. The battery terminal wire should be placed on the back of the alternator between a 10 and 11 o'clock position.
  5. Be sure to use the alternator output stud wrench SA9401C to prevent the terminal stud from rotating, then tighten the alternator positive terminal nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  6. Install the alternator dust shield and tighten the fastener bolt to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  7. Install the serpentine drive belt.
  8. Install the wheel well splash shield and right front wheel. Tighten the wheel lugs in a criss-cross pattern to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  9. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
  10. Connect the negative battery cable.


jturcotte_669.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Compress the belt tensioner and disengage the serpentine belt, then remove it from the top of the engine compartment

jturcotte_670.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: After removing the front wheel, remove the inner fender splash shield

jturcotte_671.gif

Fig. Fig. 4: View of the alternator location with the inner fender splash shield removed

jturcotte_672.gif

Fig. Fig. 5: Loosen the alternator dust shield retaining fastener (1), being careful not to damage the dust boot over the positive battery terminal (2)

jturcotte_673.gif

Fig. Fig. 6: Remove the alternator dust shield from beneath the vehicle

jturcotte_674.gif

Fig. Fig. 7: Disengage the alternator field wire connector

jturcotte_675.gif Fig. Fig. 8: Keep the alternator output stud from rotating by holding it secure with a wrench

jturcotte_676.gif

Fig. Fig. 9: If it is more accessible, remove the upper alternator attaching bolt from the top of the engine compartment

jturcotte_677.gif

Fig. Fig. 10: Remove the lower alternator attaching bolt from beneath the vehicle

jturcotte_678.gif

Fig. Fig. 11: Remove the alternator through the wheel well opening

Dec 30, 2010 | 1996 Saturn SL

1 Answer

Just wondering if you have a breakdown diagram for a 1992 dodge colt 1.5l distributer


I do not have a breakdown diagram for a distributor, but just the firing orders and description of ignition system for the Dodge Colt and related models (based on Chilton manuals) if that's what you're looking for: FIRING ORDERS Fig. 1: 1990 1.8L SOHC Engines Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Rotation: clockwise 84182009.gif

Fig. 2: 1.6L DOHC Engine Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Distributorless Ignition 84182010.gif

Fig. 3: 2.0L Engine Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Rotation: clockwise 84182011.gif

Fig. 4: 1.5L Engine Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Rotation: counterclockwise 84182012.gif

Fig. 5: 1993 1.8L Engine Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Rotation: counterclockwise 84182013.gif

Fig. 6: 2.4L Engine Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Rotation: clockwise 84182014.gif

To avoid confusion, replace spark plug wires one at a time. --- Distributor REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Although the distributor can be removed from the engine no matter which cylinder is about to fire, it is a good idea to have number one cylinder at TDC before distributor removal. 1.5L, 1.8L, 2.4L SOHC Engines
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Disconnect and tag the spark plug wires from the distributor cap.
  3. Disconnect the distributor harness connector.
    Fig. 1: Ignition system for the 2.0L engine 84183001.gif

    Fig. 2: Ignition system for the 1.5L engine 84183002.gif

    Fig. 3: Ignition system for the 1992-93 1.8L engine 84183003.gif

    Fig. 4: Ignition system for the 2.4L engine 84183004.gif

  4. Loosen the distributor retaining bolt and remove the distributor from the engine. To install:
  5. Rotate the engine until No. 1 cylinder is at TDC on its compression stroke. NOTE: Be careful not to turn it to the No. 4 cylinder TDC on its compression stroke by mistake.
  6. Align the distributor housing and gear mating marks.
    Fig. 5: Ignition system for the 1990 1.8L engine 84183005.gif

    Fig. 6: Distributor installation for the 1990 1.8L engine 84183006.gif

    Fig. 7: Distributor installation for the 1992-93 1.8L engine 84183007.gif

  7. Install the distributor into the engine, while aligning the fine cut (groove or projection) on the distributor flange with the center of the distributor mounting stud.
  8. Install and tighten the distributor retaining bolt.
  9. Reconnect the distributor harness connector.
    Fig. 8: Distributor installation for the 2.4L engine 84183008.gif

    Fig. 9: Distributor installation for the 1.5L engine 84183009.gif

    Fig. 10: Distributor installation for the 2.0L engine 84183010.gif

  10. Install the distributor cap and spark plug wires.
  11. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
prev.gif next.gif prev.gif next.gif

Oct 11, 2010 | 1992 Dodge Colt

2 Answers

What r the torque specifications on installing a head on a 1999 yukon and the tightening sequence


Check this procedure...
  1. Tighten the first design cylinder head bolts as follows:
    1. M11 bolts 1st pass: in sequence to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    2. M11 bolts 2nd pass: in sequence + 90 degrees.
    3. M11 bolts (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8): + 90 degrees.
    4. M11 bolts (9 and 10): + 50 degrees.
    5. M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.
  2. Tighten the second design cylinder head bolts as follows:
    1. M11 bolts (1-10) 1st pass: in sequence to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    2. M11 bolts (1-10) 2nd pass: in sequence + 90 degrees.
    3. M11 bolts (1-10): + 70 degrees.
    4. M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.

c409909.jpg

Fig. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines (click for zoom)


Install the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). The bolts must be tightened once, then be tightened again in sequence in the following order:
  1. Step 1: Short length bolt: (3, 4, 7, 8, 11, 12, 15, 16), plus 55 degrees.
  2. Step 2: Medium length bolt: (14, 17), plus 65 degrees.
  3. Step 3: Long length bolts: (1, 2, 5, 6, 9, 10, 13), plus 75 degrees.

7f05cb7.jpg

Fig. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-5.0L and 5.7L engines

Aug 04, 2010 | 1999 GMC Yukon Denali

1 Answer

Head tourqe specs for 403 olds and bolt tightening


Fig. : Cylinder head torque sequence, 260, 307, 350 403 Oldsmobile built engines

5c04c01.jpg


On the V8, tighten the bolts, in the sequence illustrated, to 100 ft. lbs. When all bolts have been tightened to this figure, begin the tightening sequence again, and torque all bolts to 130 ft. lbs.

On V6's, tighten all head bolts in sequence to the following torques:
* All except bolts 5, 6, 11, 12, 13 and 14 - 100 ft. lbs.(19-135.5 Nm)
* Bolts 5, 6, 11, 12, 13, and 14 - 41 ft. lbs. (19-55.5 Nm)
* All bolts except 5, 6, 11, 12, 13, and 14 - 142 ft. lbs. (19-192.5 Nm)
* Bolts 5, 6, 11, 12, 13, and 14 - 59 ft. lbs. (19-80 Nm)

9fb545e.jpg

Hope this help (remember comment and rated this).

Mar 29, 2010 | 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass

1 Answer

What is the torque settings on the head bolts for 2002 nissan x-terra 2.4litre?


① Step 1: 22 ft. lbs. Step 2: 59 ft. lbs. Step 3: Loosen completely then retorque to 22 ft. lbs. Step 4: 18-25 ft. lbs. Step 5: Plus 86-91 degrees ② 10-12 ft. lbs. plus 60-65 degrees or 28-33 ft. lbs. ③ The cylinder heads and the lower intake manifold are installed together Step 1: Tighten the cylinder head bolts to 22 ft. lbs. Step 2: Tighten the cylinder head bolts to 43 ft. lbs. Step 3: Loosen the cylinder head bolts completely Step 4: Tighten the cylinder head bolts to 84 inch lbs. Step 5: Tighten the intake manifold fasteners to 35 inch lbs. Step 6: Tighten the intake manifold fasteners to 13 ft. lbs. Step 7: Tighten the intake manifold fasteners to 12-14 ft. lbs. Step 8: Loosen all intake manifold fasteners completely Step 9: Tighten the cylinder head bolts to 22 ft. lbs. Step 10: Tighten the cylinder head bolts 60-65 degrees Step 11: Tighten the cylinder head sub-bolts to 80-105 inch lbs. Step 12: Tighten the intake manifold fasteners to 35 inch lbs. Step 13: Tighten the intake manifold fasteners to 78 inch lbs. Step 14: Tighten the intake manifold fasteners to 70-84 inch lbs. ④ 10-12 ft. lbs. +60-65 degrees ⑤ Step 1: 72 ft. lbs. Step 2: loosen completely to 0 ft. lbs. Step 3: 29 ft. lbs. Step 4: Plus 75 degrees clockwise Step 5: Plus 75 degrees clockwise ⑥ Step 1: bolts 11-22 19 ft. lbs. Step 2: bolts 1-10 29 ft. lbs. Step 3: bolts 1-10 Plus 60-65 degrees ⑦ Step 1: 20 ft. lbs. Step 2: loosen to 0 ft. lbs. Step 3: 14 ft. lbs. Step 4: Plus 85-95 degrees ⑧ Step 1: 31 ft. lbs. Step 2: Plus 60 degrees ⑨ 83 inch lbs. ⑩ Stud bolt: 11 ft. lbs. Nuts: 31 ft. lbs. ⑪ Step 1: 72 ft. lbs. Step 2: loosen completely to 0 ft. lbs. Step 3: 29 ft. lbs. Step 4: Plus 90 degrees clockwise Step 5: Plus 90 degrees clockwise ⑫ Bolts: 17-24 (M8) 16 ft. lbs. Install rear main seal Bolts: 1-16 (M10) 26 ft. lbs. Bolts: 1-16 (M10) Plus 90 degrees clockwise ⑬ Step 1: 33 ft. lbs. Step 2: Plus 84-90 degrees clockwise ⑭ Intake manifold collector: Bolts and nuts: 8 ft. lbs. Stud bolts: 61 inch lbs. ⑮ Intake manifold: Bolts and nuts: 5 ft. lbs. and than to 21 ft. lbs. Studs: 8 ft. lbs.

Jan 10, 2010 | 2002 Nissan Xterra

2 Answers

How to get the alternator out


Jeep Cherokee 1984-1998
Alternator - Removal & Installing

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the drive belt.
  3. If necessary, remove any splash shielding for easier access to the alternator.
b2a277c.jpg

Fig. 1: For easiest access to the alternator assembly, first remove the splash shield mounting fasteners...

8ce56a0.jpg

Fig. 2: ...then swing it out of the way for access to the alternator assembly

0dd4858.jpg

Fig. 3: View of the alternator electrical connections-(A) battery positive, (B) field terminals, (C) wire harness hold down, (D) ground terminal

4. Tag and disengage the alternator wiring.

It may be necessary to remove the alternator and mounting bracket from the vehicle as an assembly.



5. If equipped, remove the front alternator assembly mounting plate.

c4f5c79.jpg

Fig. 4: Remove the six nuts and bolts that secure the front mounting plate to the alternator assembly

5d9addd.jpg

Fig. 5: Remove the front alternator assembly mounting plate from below the vehicle

6.
Unfasten the alternator mounting and pivot bolts and remove the alternator.
7.
If installing the original alternator assembly, push out the pivot bushing as illustrated.

c83e7aa.jpg

Fig. 6: After removing the alternator assembly front mounting plate, remove the front engine-to-alternator bracket mounting stud

6b7fb06.jpg

Fig. 7: Remove the two alternator bracket-to-engine mounting bolts

53ee592.jpg

Fig. 8: Remove the alternator and mounting bracket assembly from the vehicle

ecee6df.jpg

Fig. 9: If re-installing, the alternator has a pivot bushing on the pivot arm that should be pushed out before installation

953fb87.jpg

Fig. 10: Mount a C-clamp and 18mm socket on the alternator pivot bushing...

18ac3b3.jpg

Fig. 11: ...then compress the C-clamp until it pushes the alternator pivot bushing out


To install:

8.Mount the alternator to the brackets with the nuts and bolts. Tighten the two mounting bolts and nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
9.
If the alternator and mounting bracket were removed as an assembly, install the assembly into the vehicle.
10.
If removed, install the front mounting plate.
11. Engage the alternator electrical connections.
12.
If removed, install the splash shield.
13.
Install the drive belt and attach the negative battery cable.


More details for testing and diagnostics you can revies:
- Section-8A-Electrical-95xj8a
- Section-8B-Battery-Starter-Generator-Service-95XJ8B

I hope help you whit this, good luck (remember rated this help).

Sep 16, 2009 | 1996 Jeep Cherokee

1 Answer

I need a diagram of a 1995 ford escort engine


96 escort 1.9L

bb97132.gif
e0d7524.gif

Engine Components
Item Part Number Description 1 6766 Oil Filler Cap 2 6A548 (8 Req'd) Valve Cover Bolt 3 6582 Valve Cover 4 — Exhaust Manifold Shield-to-Exhaust Manifold Nut (4 Req'd) 5 9A462 Exhaust Manifold Shield 6 — Exhaust Manifold Shield Stud (4 Req'd) 7 9430 Exhaust Manifold 8 9454 Exhaust Manifold Nut 9 9448 Exhaust Manifold Gasket 10 — Exhaust Manifold Stud (Fine Thread), Short (4 Req'd) 11 — Exhaust Manifold Stud, Long (1 Req'd) 12 — Exhaust Manifold Stud (Medium Thread), Short (1 Req'd) 13 6518 Valve Spring Retainer Key 14 6514 Valve Spring Retainer 15 6513 Valve Spring and Damper, Intake 16 6C515 Valve Tappet Guide Plate Retainer 17 6571 Valve Stem Seal 18 6513 Valve Spring, Exhaust 19 12405 Spark Plug 20 6269 Camshaft Thrust Plate 21 — Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolt (2 Req'd) 22 — Cup Plug 23 6B273 Camshaft Oil Flow Control Rod 24 6K292 Camshaft Front Seal 25 6256 Camshaft Sprocket 26 6278 Camshaft Sprocket Washer 27 6K252 Camshaft Sprocket Retaining Bolt 28 6L269 Camshaft Sprocket Key (5 x 18) 29 6250 Camshaft 30 6051 Head Gasket 31 6A008 Cylinder Head to Block Dowel 32 6010 Cylinder Block 33 6507 Intake Valve 34 6505 Exhaust Valve 35 6049 Cylinder Head 36 — Intake Manifold Stud (7 Req'd) 37 17A084 Engine Lifting Eye 38 — Engine Lifting Eye Bolt (2 Req'd) 39 9439 Intake Manifold Gasket 40 — Bolt 41 9723 Accelerator Cable Bracket 42 9424 Intake Manifold 43 — Intake Manifold Nut (7 Req'd) 44 9D476 EGR Valve Gasket 45 — Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Bolt (2 Req'd) 46 9D475 EGR Valve 47 — Fuel Injection Supply Manifold Bolt
(2 Req'd) 48 9F593 Fuel Injector 49 9D930 Fuel Charging Wiring 50 6786 Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket 51 — Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket Bolt 52 6754 Oil Level Indicator Tube 53 6750 Oil Level Dipstick 54 9D280 Fuel Injection Supply Manifold 55 — Vacuum Fitting 56 9E498 Main Emission Vacuum Control Connector 57 — Vacuum Tap 58 — Vacuum Hose 59 9B989 Throttle Position Sensor 60 — Screw and Washer 61 9F782 Throttle Position Sensor Gasket 62 — Throttle Body Bolt (4 Req'd) 63 — Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Bolt
(2 Req'd) 64 9F715 Idle Air Control Valve 65 9F670 Idle Air Control Gasket 66 9E926 Throttle Body 67 9E936 Throttle Body Gasket 68 — Vacuum Fitting 69 — Camshaft Position Sensor Screw 70 6B288 Camshaft Position Sensor 71 8255 Water Hose Connection Gasket 72 — Water Hose Connection Bolt (3 Req'd) 73 8592 Water Hose Connection 74 8575 Water Thermostat 75 6065 Cylinder Head Bolts 76 6500 Valve Tappet 77 6K512 Valve Tappet Guide Plate 78 6564 Rocker Arm 79 6A528 Rocker Arm Seat 80 6A527 Rocker Arm Bolt (8 Req'd) 81 — Ignition Coil Mounting Bracket Bolt
(3 Req'd) 82 18827 Noise Filter Condenser 83 — Ignition Coil Mounting Bolt (4 Req'd) 84 12259 Spark Plug Wire Set 85 12029 Ignition Coil 86 12043 Ignition Coil Mounting Bracket A — Tighten to 5-12 Nm (4-9 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 5-7 Nm (3-5 Lb-Ft) C — Tighten to 21-26 Nm (16-19 Lb-Ft) D — Tighten to 2-10 Nm (1.5-7 Lb-Ft) E — Tighten to 8-13 Nm (6-9 Lb-Ft) F — Tighten to 40-55 Nm (30-41 Lb-Ft) G — Tighten to 16-20 Nm (12-15 Lb-Ft) H — Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 Lb-Ft) I — Tighten to 8-10 Nm (6-8 Lb-Ft) J — Tighten to 8-11 Nm (6-9 Lb-Ft) K — Tighten to 23-30 Nm (17-22 Lb-Ft) L — Tighten to 20-40 Nm (15-30 Lb-Ft) M — Tighten to 4.5-7 Nm (3-5 Lb-Ft) N — Tighten to 18-26 Nm (13-19 Lb-Ft)

Feb 24, 2009 | 1995 Ford Escort

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