SOURCE: Elna Lock L2 I have overlocker rage..... been
Have you made sure the needle thread is the last to be threaded. If this thread is still under the loopers when you rethread, the threads will break .Sewit
SOURCE: Hi, I am unable to do a overlock stitch , elna l1
Check with sewusa for a threading guide and manual.
Look inside the font door of the machine to see if there is a threading guide.
SOURCE: Would love a user manual for the dinosour elna
I looked for the manual and found this link; I hope this helps!!
http://safemanuals.com/brand-user-guide-instructions-owner-manual/ELNA
SOURCE: I have an elna t34d overlocker. Yesterday it was
Let's try the 10 minute tuneup. (I have a strong suspicion this is a
misthreading issue, but it won't hurt to go through the whole thing.)
Dig out your manual.
Remove all the thread from the machine, top and bobbin.
Remove the needle. (Damaged or dull needles do all sorts of strange things to machines.)
Remove the needle plate, and if your machine has a removable bobbin case, pull that out, too.
Remove all fragments of thread and fuzz with brush and vacuum (don't use
compressed air or canned air or blow -- it pushes fuzz farther into the
machine where you can't get to it.) Pay special attention to the area
around the feed dogs and the sewing hook area.
Lubricate the machine according to the manual's instructions if the manual describes using oil. Use ONLY sewing machine oil, not 3-in-1 type oils (they harden and freeze the machine) nor WD-40 (it's a solvent not a lubricant.)
Moisten a fold of well-washed cotton sheeting (like a bandanna or a
pillowcase hem) with rubbing alcohol or unflavored vodka. Raise the
presser foot to open the upper tension. Floss between the tension disks
with the moist cotton fabric. Set the upper tension to 4 if you've
been messing with it -- that's a good starting point for most stitches,
most fabrics. If you have to go beyond the range of 3 to 5 to get good
straight stitching, then it's time for a visit to the repair shop, most
likely.
Inspect the bobbin you've removed. Is it nicely wound, or does it look
uneven or lumpy? If it's uneven or lumpy, strip off the thread.
Inspect the bobbin for cracks, chips, rough spots, etc. and then rewind
it properly, following the instructions in your manual, step by step.
Use only good quality thread - see: http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/a...
Inspect the sewing hook, bobbin case, hole in the needle plate and all
along the thread path, top and bobbin. If you find burrs, they'll need
to be polished out with crocus cloth. If you're a beginner, let a shop
do it for you or read John Giordano's The Sewing Machine Book for instructions.
Check to see the bobbin fits in the bobbin case properly-- this may not
be a problem if you're using the bobbins that came with your one and
only machine, but once you've got a herd of sewing machines, it's easy to mix up bobbins from one machine to the next. (Why no, I've never done that? Why do you ask??? )
Put in a new needle, turned the correct way around. If the bobbin case
is toward the front of the machine, the flat back of the needle goes to
the back of the machine. Backwards needles skip stitches. Make sure
the needle is fully up in the needle clamp before you tighten it.
Open the manual to the section on threading, and read each step aloud
before you do it... even if you've threaded it 8 jillion times before.
Make sure you 1) Raise the presser foot when threading to open the
tension so the thread can enter (this is what I suspect you're doing
wrong) 2) Raise the thread takeup lever completely (the arm that moves
up and down and is threaded after the tension).
Thread the bobbin case according to the instructions in your manual.
Raise the bobbin thread.
Pull about 4" of thread tail from both top and bobbin thread under and behind the presser foot.
Each and every time you start a seam, you're going to follow the steps below.
1) Raise the presser foot.
2) Place the fabric under the needle at the beginning of the seam.
3) Use the handwheel (or pedal or needle down button on some machines)
to lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the seam.
4) Drop the presser foot.
5) Take 2 or 3 stitches while holding the thread ends behind the presser foot.
6) Drop the thread ends and sew normally.
----------
I know this seems like a lot of fuss and folderol. But if you get in
the habit of giving your machine a light cleaning the first time you sit
down at the machine each day (just brush and vacuum; oil if required)
and you correctly thread the machine and follow the seam starting
sequence, this will solve many, many common sewing machine frustrations.
If the machine persists in misbehaving, stop and do the full "10 minute
tuneup" and try again. Always, always take all the thread off the
machine -- bobbin out of bobbin case, spool off the spool pin.
99% of the time, even if you don't spot anything wrong, this will fix
the machine when you rethread. There was something that you didn't spot
that was wrong, and the machine let you know by pitching a hissy fit.
Happens to all of us, and this is the fastest way around things that I
know.
If the machine persists in having problems,
1) check the needle to make sure it's new, of the right needle system,
placed fully up in the needle clamp and turned the right way.
2) try different thread -- poor quality thread can cause some really difficult to spot issues.
3) if it's still having fits, it's probably time for a pro to take a look at it.
SOURCE: I have "inherited" an OVERLOCKER. It's an ELNA
Hello Victoria
You can download a manual for this specific machine (Elna 683 686 Overlocker Serger mach...Elna 683 686 Overlocker Serger machine) for £4.95 at the following link:
http://sewingonline.co.uk/library/elna-683-686-overlocker.html
Best Regards
For Elna 654 overlock Machines
Elna 654 Serger How to thread for 4 thread overlock tips tricks 
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