Question about Whirlpool LEQ9858L Electric Dryer

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I have a Whirlpool Dryer LEQ9508PWO which doesn't heat. I get 120 volts on both sides of the heating coils, both sides of both of the thermostats and the thermal fuse. the vent duct is removed. I have good air flow through the exhaust port. What's next ?

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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ronpar
  • 27 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat

it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

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VOTIT
  • 2071 Answers

SOURCE: Gas Dryer quit heating today

Just click below;

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Igniter
Gas valve coils
Thermal fuse

Hope it may help you;

Regards;
VOTIT

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer not heating

The motor has to be running for voltage to exit the motor going to the heater. With the back off the dryer and the motor running you should read 220 volts at the heater if all safetys and thermostats are good.
There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
Finally, yes,the centrifugal switch in the motor could be bad and not sending power to the heater on the red wire.

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

Testimonial: "I did determine it to be the cetrepetal switch..specifically the slide for the weights was heavily gummed up with dryer belt dust. It works now."

ftw1952
  • 10319 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Whirlpool Dryer LEQ9508PWO which doesn't

Read my tips on dryers. The Vent Duct work is always the last thing checked by most. Dryers have sensors that shut off the heat if the vent system is plugged up

Posted on Apr 07, 2010

  • 44 Answers

SOURCE: Have replaced heat element, thermostat, thermal

I'd like you to try something easy. Set the dryer to Air Fluff and see if the dryer still puts
out Heat let it run for about 2 full minutes If you dryer is still putting out Heat get back to me

Posted on Nov 20, 2010

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2 Answers

I have kitchenaid dryer, #KEYS677EQ0, no heat. Have replaced heat element, & checked all the thermostats. I have power on the thermostat side of the element, but none on the motor side. Motor or timer


1) Have you checked to makes sure all of the connections for the heating element are correct and plugged in?
2) Have you checked to make sure any and all fuses (if any) are good?
3) Have you cleaned the interior of the dryer?
4) Have you opened the dryer up and turned it on to check to see if the heating coil is heating or not?

If you haven't done these go back and do so.

Jun 07, 2015 | KitchenAid Dryers

Tip

Whirlpool or Kenmore Dryer Does Not Heat


Electric

First , check the circuit breaker to make sure they are on . Be sure to UNPLUG the dryer , while checking with an ohm meter . When checking WITH power , BEST to have another person available in case of emergency . I do know of 1 person killed while working on his dryer .
A dryer operating on 240 volts , sends 120 volts to the timer and 120 volts to the motor . In between these two , are the thermal cut-off , and the element ( this is the basic operation parts ) . The 120 volts from the motor , goes directly to the element if selected for heat . The timer circuit , sends the other 120 volts , thru the operating thermostats , then thermal fuse , then thermal cut-off , then high-limit thermostat , then to the element . Usually , not ALL the time , the thermal fuse ( number 1 ) is the problem . The heating element ( number 2 ) is usually the problem , if the thermal fuse is good .
If the thermostats , element , and thermal fuse check good with an ohm meter , remove 1 wire from the element and check with a meter , which side is NOT getting 120 volts . Trace the wire which will either go to the timer ( occasionally ) or to the motor ( extremely rare ) .

Gas

On a gas dryer , for no heat , or , heats for a short time then runs but no heat afterwords until cooled down , first check that the electronic igniter , glows red . If it does NOT glow red , then check power to the burner ( 2 wires ) . If no power , then the thermal fuse is bad . (On electric dryers , the thermal fuse keeps the dryer from starting . On gas dryers , it keeps the dryer from heating . The thermal fuse , is a 1" long , or oval , white piece , with 2 wires going to it ) . Also if it does not glow red , the igniter itself could be bad . Again , check with an ohm meter . If the igniter glows red and clicks off , but no gas , the sensor could be bad . This sensor , is mounted to the side of the burner box , and when the igniter gets hot enough to ignite the gas , the sensor opens , sending power to the coils , which open dispensing the gas to heat the dryer . To check the sensor , with the drum removed , start the dryer , and after the igniter gets red , pull one of the wires OFF the sensor , and the gas should ignite . Do this very carefully , as electricity WILL be in the wire pulled off . If the dryer heats for a short time then stops heating , the problem will be the burner coils . These coils will get warm from the electricity going thru them , and will " open " ( short ) internally , until they cool down . Then heat again for a short time , then open , until cooled .
Most of the time , either the thermal fuse ( 1 ) or the coils are bad ( 2 ) or the igniter is bad ( 3 ) .

........A thermal fuse is a white 1" long torpedo looking piece , or , a white oval shaped piece , with 2 wires going to it .

NOTE1 : The thermal fuse keeps an electric dryer from starting and keeps a gas dryer from heating .

NOTE2 : If your dryer heats but the clothes do not dry , then a venting problem is obvious , as a dryer either heats or doesn't heat . Pull the dryer out and disconnect the vent from the dryer . Dry a load of clothes and if/when they dry in the normal amount of time , this tells you either the vent hose is kinked , maybe pushed back too far , or , the outside vent is blocked , or , the vent in the wall is restricted to the outside .

Electric Dryers

NOTE3 : If your lint screen is on top of the dryer , the element , thermal fuse , and thermostats are behind the rear dryer panel ....If the lint screen is behind the dryer door , then the element , thermal fuse ( located behind the lint screen housing ( 2 screws ) , and thermostats , are located behind the lower front panel .

on Apr 17, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer does not heat up checked all thermostats and replaced heating element still no luck


hum... I ve seen where the motor was only getting 120 and not 240 and with most dryers they use 2 speeds or modes on the windings , 1 direction for drying with heat and the other to run minus heat thus if u only get 120 volts u have enough to run the dryer but not enough to run the heat to that dryer?

Aug 22, 2014 | Whirlpool EED4400WQ 29" Electric Dryer...

1 Answer

Leq9508pwo


Most likely the heating element is burned out. Could be the thermal switch or thermostat.

Aug 07, 2013 | Whirlpool LEQ9858P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a Whirlpool Dryer LEQ9508PWO which doesn't heat. Is it the Thermostat? The coils are good.


Read my tips on dryers. The Vent Duct work is always the last thing checked by most. Dryers have sensors that shut off the heat if the vent system is plugged up

Apr 07, 2010 | Whirlpool LEQ9858L Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer is no longer heating up and it does not time out, what parts would i need to fix the problems?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug
Whirlpool style dryer - no heat problems:

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Feb 27, 2010 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I changed the heating coil on my 80 series kenmore dryer and changed the Hi thermostat. When I try to turn on the dryer it won't do anything, and I noticed as soon as I plug the Dryer in the heating coil...


chances are that the heating coil is touching ground some place it must be suspended completely and where it passes through the steel it must have an insulator (Caution this is a fire hazzard ) what's happening (if you care) is that the heating element is 240 volts in our electrical system either one of the wires that makes up that 240 volts to ground will give you 120 volts so at some point your element is grounded giving it 120 volts more than enough to make it glow red.... for some reason beyond my comprehension our electrical safety authority has decided that in a residential dryer only one live wire needs to be interupted leaving the other wire live Good luck ...sorry about the rant I,ve seen this exact problem about a dozen times

Oct 23, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer spins but will not heat . Electric dryer, whirlpool. Model leq9508pwo serial #ms4347944


Ok this can be 1 of 4 problems:

1. your breaker is connected to the only one side of the panel
2. your breaker s fried and needs replaced.
(both of these can be elliminated by using an electrical tester on the outlet)(240 Volt)
3. you temperature thermostat if bad
4. your heating element is bad.
Or if the dryer heats a little then stops heating your vent hose may be kinked or plugged.

May 03, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag Dryer working but not heating up.


possible air flow problem,, check exhaust hose and sure not clogged up needs air flow, if long dry times repl/ coils/ only on gas models /if electric./ repl/ hi limit thermostat,// and safety thermostat ,,u need 240 volts 120 to turn on dryer and another 120 to heat ......

Nov 30, 2008 | Maytag PYE2300AY Electric Dryer

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