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GE TCX22PAC freezer and fridge not cold enough despite replacing defrost timer and thermostat!

Posted by Anonymous on

5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Master_Tech
  • 770 Answers

SOURCE: fridge doesn't get cold enough

you have either a Defrost heater / a defrost timer/ or a defrost bi-metal that is bad. if you post your model # i can look it up and show you how to set it into defrost to see if the heaters are ok
Since you replaced the timer already that leaves two things you need to check set it into defrost if you know how and remove the panel in the back wall of the freezer you should see the heater(s) are on if not check pwr 120vac at the heaters if 0 volts the bi-metal is bad

Posted on Feb 22, 2008

  • 39 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer does not get cold enough...

your defrost t-stat is located behind the rear frzr panel. it's a round disk w/ two wires, org/wht. if you see heavy frost built on the rear panel, then you a a defrost. it could be your timer, heater or t-stat. if i knew your model # and can tell you how to advance into the defrost cycle.

Posted on Jul 16, 2009

oldTech2332
  • 2341 Answers

SOURCE: Hotpoint (GE)CTX18GJB not cold

Hello,

I agree with the tech. if the refriderator isn't frosting it isn't working,their is only 1fan and its in the freezer,The tech could have missed some frost build up that is blocking the air flow into the fresh food section,if he removed all the frost it could take up to 24 hours to get cold ,it should slowly geta bit colder throughout the day,if by tomorrow its still not working have the tech come back and check for frost build up on the vents for air flow into fresh food compartment.
To reiderate their is two types of refrigerators,one that you have to manually defrost and a automatic defrost type where the defrost system which is comprised of the defrost heater,timer&termination t-stat will automatically melt the frost

Posted on Jul 28, 2011

Testimonial: "Old Tech: Thnks for your response. Tempted to open up back of freezer myself - and take a good luck. Barry"

  • 794 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, We are having trouble w/our

Hi hardyboys33,

This sounds like another defrost system problem. Let's confirm it first. Take a look at the evaporator cover. The evaporator cover is typically located on the back wall of the freezer. If there is a defrost problem there will be thick ice on the evaporator cover. If there is thick ice forming on the evaporator cover, remove it. There are four things that can cause a defrost problem on a GE electronic refrigerator and they are the main board, the defrost thermostat, the evaporator thermistor and the defrost heater. Follow the directions below to diagnose which of the four parts are bad. Since you have new heater and thermostat and were checked OK just follow the steps below:

1. Check the thermistor - Please note that this test must be done before the ice is melted.


a. Locate the connector on the board marked J1 and disconnect it.


b. Using your ohmmeter, check ohms between the 5th wire and the 4th wire. Assuming the thermistor is covered with ice (it should be if you have a defrost problem), you should get around 16.3 K ohms +/- 5 %. If the thermistor is out of range, replace it. Just as a note that most of the time when I see a bad thermistor, it is way out of range typically it will be 2 K ohms when it should be 16.

thermistorplug.jpg

checkingthermistor.jpg


6. If in step 4 you get an open circuit then you know the problem is the defrost thermostat or the heater. Follow these steps.


a. Melt the ice and locate the thermostat and the heater.


b. Take a look at the thermostat and compare it to the ones in the picture below. If it looks like the bad thermostat, there is no need for testing. Just replace the thermostat.


defrostthermostat.jpg

c. Remove the heater and test it with an ohmmeter. It should be around 15-25 ohms give or take and if not replace it. If the heater tests ok, replace the thermostat.


If the heater, thermostat and thermistor check out ok, replace the main board.

Hope this helps.

Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Aug 17, 2011

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The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

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How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.


If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

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How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.


If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

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If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


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http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp
..
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

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You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

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http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp ..

OR
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

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The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp ..
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

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