Question about General Electric WBSR3140GWW Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the lid switch wiring was arcing to the metal frame of the washer, you should have had the circuit breaker tripping. Also, you may have damaged the contacts in the timer or the lid switch. Arcing to the frame would be obvious; the bare wires would have black or melted spots, and so would the sheet metal right next to the wire.
Bare terminals (but not bare wires!) are common, but they are shrouded or otherwise isolated from the washer frame. A burned switch most likely has bad contacts; this would stop the washer from running. In that case, replace the switch. An overheated switch could burn off the insulation on the wires. Repair the wires if that is what you have, either by cutting them off and crimping on new terminals (preferred) or by sleeving them with heat-shrink tubing. I prefer using new terminals in this case because the originals are probably heavily oxidized and may not make a good connection on the new switch. This could cause the problem to happen again. If you don't have an ohmmeter, take the switch to an appliance parts dealer and ask if they can check the contacts (a friend in the electrical or electronics business could do this too).
Note: if this is just a case of a burned-out switch, the timer is probably OK. Lid switches don't usually burn out unless people routinely interrupt the wash cycle by opening the lid, so you may want to evaluate laundry practices in your household. If that isn't the issue, you could have a problem causing the motor to draw too much current. Right after you do a load with the new switch, feel the door switch to see if it is running hot. If so, check for excess drag in the mechanism, especially the motor bearings.
Posted on Jan 23, 2011
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