Question about Ovens
The front right triple burner on My Kenmore Elite Electric Range with glass cooktop Model 790 9912 won't turn off. How can I fix this?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kenmore elite gas stove
f-1 means the ERC is bad. sometimes turning the breaker off for a couple of min will help but if not the the clock/oven control needs to be replaced
Posted on Nov 22, 2007
I had the same F30 error problem but fixed it. On my professional series Frigidaire, there are 2 resettable red button locations. I discovered that only one is in the rear of the oven. After going to the breaker box and shutting off the power, pull out the stove enough to work, unscrew the rear screws (I didn't unscrew all of them, just enough to work back there). The small red button is on a small black round piece with two purple wires feeding to it. That was not my problem. Mine was the other red button behind the control panel. Pull off all 4 knobs, unscrew by hand the large black rings that are underneath the knobs, pull out the whole panel. Look back and right (below where the right knobs were located) to find the 2nd red small button. Push to reset. Check this one first since it is easier to do.
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
Hello. I can help you.
Usually, when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake element is burned out. The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.
Since it is a Kenmore you can get the part at Sears.com. You can price the part there. I can assure you that a technician will charge you at least $125. to do that repair. If the range is old, you may wish to put that money toward a new stove.
Posted on Jul 06, 2009
If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!
Posted on Jul 24, 2010
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite made by Frigidaire
The F30 error code indicates that the electronic oven control board detects an "open" oven temperature sensor probe circuit.
This is usually caused by a failed oven temperature sensor probe.
Replacing this component will likely fix your problem.
You can order this part from www.searspartsdirect.com website.
If you replace this part yourself, be sure that you unplug the range to disconnect electrical power before accessing this component.
On some models, you can replace the probe by removing the screws that mount this component to the inside back wall of the oven.
Carefully pull the probe inside the oven cavity until you encounter the wire harness disconnect plug.
Unplug the sensor and replace it with the new one. Mount the new probe on the back wall of the oven.
On some models, you have to remove the lower back oven panel to access the sensor probe.
If you replace the probe and still have this problem, you will need to unplug the range and measure the resistance through the violet wires that plug into the control board (this is where the sensor probe circuit is connected to the control board).
If the resistance through the oven temperature sensor probe circuit is normal (about 1100 ohms at room temperature) then the electronic oven control board will need to be replaced.
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Posted on Sep 26, 2010
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