Question about Dometic Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: My 16-year old refrig makes
Just a thought..fan motors usually have some front to back play (looseness). When the fan first turns on ..it may make contact with something, however after a few blade revolutions, the air pressure will push the fan one way, and allow it to be quieter. If not the fan, the compressor will also have some starting torque possibly causing a knock.
Posted on Apr 21, 2008
Your refrigerator may be stuck in defrost cycle. I know it has a defrost timer part number 215846602 Most times they are located inside the fresh food compartment behind the control panel. Sometimes below fridge and behind kick plate. The thermostat could be defective also. You can check that by unplugging the refrigerator remove cover and checking continuity between the two male connections located on the rear side of thermostat control turned as cold as you can turn it. Or you can join the two wires together and plug refrigerator back in to see if compressor comes on. When you find the defrost time turn clockwise slowly until the refrigerator starts. If these don't work let me know and we will do some more test. Sea Breeze
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
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