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Replaced cylinder head due to loss of pressure and leaking. Pressure now back to normal and no leaks but machine does not switch off automatically when lance trigger released...

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  • 402 Answers

You may have a faulty unloader valve first remove the fitting the you attach you high pressure hose to inside inspect the checkvalve it may be stuck in the open position free it up reinstall and try again .try not to leave pump over pressurized for more than 3 seconds you will damage the seals.

Posted on Aug 05, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: When I switch my karcher k4.97 washer on it just

you have an internal crack in the out let head of the machine very comon in thease machine and not expencive to fix

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

  • 83 Answers

SOURCE: honda pressure washer cuts out when lance trigger released.

You most likely need to set your valve clearances. If it is hard to pull over or the recoil snaps back after starting your valves need to be set for sure. This may not be the entire problem but it is a good start. Also change the spark plug, a bad plug will cause odd problems and is too cheap not to eliminate as a source. In addition check your fuel, pour a little out into a white container (I like spray paint can caps for this) and look at the color. If it is yellow to orange it is bad. You can pour it into you car, the car electronic sensors will compinsate for it quality but a small engine can't. Use a NGK BP6ES or BPR6ES plug.
You need:
Feeler gages
10mm open end wrench
14mm open end wrench
1 long shaft screw driver or rod
1 spark plug socket and ratchet

Remove the spark plug and the valve cover. Pull the recoil over slowly until the intake valve opens (intake is closes to the carb and it will go down when it opens). Now put your long screwdrive down the spark plug hole. Slow pull the engine over until the screwdriver handle is at it highest point, this is top dead center. It may take a few attempts. Now check your valve clearance between the rockers and the top of the valve. The intake should be .006 and the exhaust .008, both can be +/- .001. To adjust: hold the large nut with the 14mm then loosen the small one with the 10mm. Lefty loosey. Now turn your large nut until you get the correct setting and then tighten the small one the lock it in. It may take a few attempts and alway reverify your setting after you lock it down. Once done, find top dead center again and reverify. Now your valves are set.

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

  • 306 Answers

SOURCE: no high pressure no leaks motor runs off and on when trigger is released

check filter in wand and clean out nozzle hole for starters

Posted on May 04, 2009

  • 92 Answers

SOURCE: Turn water on then actuate wand trigger. Pressure

You gave a very close solution yourself for the problem. But other leakages can cause such symtoms.Forexample a leaking head or a leaking chemical inlet. These can be caused because the spill valve (pressure control valve) is stuck. When this valve stucks it will leave a micro switch ON. So the machine keeps working with the gun closed. This will in turn creat internal pressure and damages the head, valves and chemical non-return and even damage outlet hose. So besides fixing the leakages you must check and service the spill valve. I often replace the spill valve. One must also checks if the micro switch is faulty. Now very important that what you mentioned that the machine cycles at one minute intervals, with trigger closed...this is most probably always the spill valve fault. If you open machine you see a place where there is a wire..this belongs to the micro switch...under you find the spill valve. Intake and suction valves may now also have a fault. Also there are systems with non-return valves at the machine outlet. You have to tackle by elimination. Fix the leakage..then tackle spill valve and micro switch.
Fulltech.

Posted on Aug 04, 2010

ftw1952
  • 10319 Answers

SOURCE: Low pressure when running.

basicly you can review all these videos and learn how to repair your pressure washer easily. Most have the same valves as shown were the hosses attach to
here is the link to many videos to view below

http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GPCK_enUS397US398&q=pressure+washer+repairing+you+tube

Posted on Jun 18, 2011

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There is a check valve that keeps air pressure from coming back to the compressor head and the relief valve.
I think the check valve is leaking tank pressure to the relief valve and compressor head.
The check valve is where the pressure switch mounts on to and it mounts threaded on to the compressor tank.
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My Karcher 11/5 U starts and stops when not in use


Pressure washers do this due to a valve called the 'unloader'. It's purpose is to relieve pressure from the pump when not in use so it is not under continuous strain, but there is also a pressure switch linked to the motor that will fire it up if the pressure drops to low so your washer is always primed and ready for action. This means tht the unloader relieves the pressure, then the electric pressure switch pumps it again to keep the pressure high. If it is doing it a couple of times a minute I wouldn't worry, but if it is every few seconds it would indicate to me that the pump is losing pressure constantly somewhere. Main reasons would be;
It could be a weak unloader, which is basically a strongish spring and a couple of plates and seals, but would normally come as a kit or complete valve.
A leaky seal in or around the pump. If this was the case you should see water leaking from the unit somewhere and then you could pin point the worn/damaged seal and replace it. Most washers have seal kits and it is advisable to replace seals in this way as it saves time later (especially if a worn seal, others will be wearing out too).
Failed non return valve. In the pump head there are normally two non return valves per piston (one directly after the piston and one a bit deeper into the outlet side) and also a couple in the back end of the pump head. These basically allow the pressurised water to be pushed through the pump and stop it flowing back into the cylinder set. If the water can flow back as well as forwards it will not keep pressure (like blowing a balloon up but not holding it shut between breaths). Non return valves will normally be supplied as a set and will be assembled already so just push into place when the pump head is apart. You would not see a leak if thesse valves are perished as the water will just flow back toward the source instead of out of the machine anywhere.

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1 Answer

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With due apologize I do not know about the model year, engine code and other specs of your car. But check the following to solve the problem.
- Check Tire inflation.
- Check the clutch and pressure plate (if manual transmission).
- Check the accuracy of temperature sending gauge. (the fan should automatically start when the temperature gauge reads center position position on the combination meter.
- Check the radiator fan air flow, throw pressure and fan direction (should throw the air inside towards the engine).
- Check radiator cap and reservoir for air leaks. Perform cooling system pressure test.
- Check all the radiator hoses for firmness. Any scale or coolant color can reveal the leakage.
- Re torque all the cylinder head bolts a little more.
- Check color of engine oil. If the color is seen brown or excessive pressure is built inside the cooling system, due to the exhaust gases released into the cooling system, the cylinder head gasket is burnt. If so replace the gasket and surface grind the cylinder head with a surface grinding machine.

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1 Answer

Overheating


You need to find out if the leak is internal or external to the engine. There is a tool called a Radiator pressure checker and it works similar to a bicycle pump. Special fittings replace the radiator cap and you observe the pressure rating of the system when you add pressure.

If the leak is significant this test will spill the antifreeze from the leak. In difficult cases, an additive leak detection chemical can be added to detect a leak with an UV light.

If not successful you will need to pressurize the system and observe for pressure drop. This would mean the leak is internal like a bad head gasket. At best, you can diagnose which side (bank) of the engine needs to have its head gasket replaced by removing the spark plugs and cranking the engine to spray out the antifreeze from the problem cylinder. Again, a chemical dye and UV light would be helpful.

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I agree with Mike, but suspect you already have a measuring device to know the pressure is excessive. You should get the cap checked first.

But additional pressure that keeps coming out of the radiator above the release limit of 14-18 lbs is probably due to escaped compression from the engine cylinders. You will see bubbles inside the radiator while the engine runs.

Sometimes you will get water in the cylinder after the engine sets under pressure, but not always. Your engine works at about 140psi in the cylinder more or less. The radiator at 14-18 psi. A leak in a head gasket may take more than 14-18 psi to leak. So the leak acts like a one-way valve shoving air into the cooling system. Since the cooling system loses pressure as it cools, the water may not flow back into the cylinders when the engine is not running.

This is sometimes indicated in a cylinder bleeddown test where high pressure is shoved into the cylinder. Bubbles may be observed in the radiator from escaping air. Otherwise a compression drop in a cylinder may as easily be due to bad rings.

I hope my solution is helpful.

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Unexplained coolant loss. Cyl. pressures good don't thing it is head gasket. No visible leaks. Goes thru resovoir daily.


If there isn't a puddle of coolant forming on the driveway after the car sits for awhile and there isn't a puddle inside the passenger compartment, then the problem must lie in the cylinder head or engine block.

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usually an indicator of either a loss of pressure due to low fluid and/or air in the system (brake fluid leak) or extremely worn rear brakes (if drum brakes in rear). possible causes include master cylinder (internal fluid pressure leak), external fluid leaks (calipers, lines, wheel cylinders), rear drum brakes extremely worn down or severely out of adjustment. normally worn disc brakes may reduce pedal height SOME, but seldom "to floor". but the "mushy" quote combined with the "floor" quote suggests a hydrolic fluid pressure problem.

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1 Answer

Exp. sudden, total loss of brake pressure 1992


hi this sounds like you have a major leak possibly the master cylinder or rear slave cylinder has blown its seals, cheack under the vehicle at the rear and have a look at the back of the wheels if they are dark and verry wet or one is, then you have found the leak, you can also try looking under the hood, where the brake master cylinder is ( this is where the brake fluid is normally put in ) and check there to see if there is any damp/wet patches running down the bulk head/fire wall, you can also check the inside of the vehicle where the brake peddal is attached to the vehicle and see if the carpet is damp, this will be the master cylinder seals have blown, and will need replacing, unit or seals depends on what you can get .....hope this helped

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My Bostich CAP60P compressor will build pressure to about 40 pounds (tank pressure), and then keep running but not build more pressure or build it very slowly. No leaks.


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1 Answer

I was using the pressure washer and it stopped having high pressure and motor keeps doing a varoom--- pause----varoom----pause and does not stop doing this even with the wand off. Does anyone know what to...


This problem, where the unit continually switches on and off when the handgun is closed, is quite common. Unfortunately it has at least six different possible causes, only two of which are easily checked. 
The first thing you can do is look for leaks.  Even the slightest leak will cause this pulsing because the unit gets up to pressure, switches off, loses pressure, switches back on again, comes back up to pressure, switches off... and so on.  This repeated switching is not good for the motor and should not be allowed to continue for longer than necessary to observe what's happening.
So... 1. Does the handgun shut off completely, or does it drip? If it drips, it may simply be because a seal has failed. The handgun can be dismantled, checked, and any defective parts replaced; be sure to lubricate O-rings with silicone grease when reassembling. As a last resort, the whole gun may need to be replaced.
2. Are there any visible leaks at the high-pressure hose screw connections?  If so, most likely an O-ring needs replacing - again lubricate the new one well with silicone grease.
3. If there are no visible leaks, either from the gun or from the connections, all other possible causes are internal within the cylinder head or control head of the pump. New parts will be needed and this normally calls for a professional repair, although it's not beyond the scope of a truly competent amateur.
I hope this helps. Any further questions, just ask! Please remember to rate this response.

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