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Awz 9813 whirlpool

My dryer is 7 years old and has stopped heating up but otherwise running ok.

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  • 24 Answers

Check your thermal fuse, if that is ok make sure that your heating element has continuity. Also check your cord you need 240vdc at machine to operate, it will run with 120vdc but needs 240vdc to also heat.

Posted on Aug 01, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: worked fine until today. Not heating. Drum turns well

Ken,

I am diagnosing a similar problem in my dryer. Mine is a MDG4000BWW but the part catalog looks almost exactly the same. If you haven't done so already, make sure your vent pipe is clear. Since the air flow carries away the combustion gasses, there are safety switches to shut off the gas if the vent is blocked. If the vent is clear, take off the front cover by unscrewing the four screws that hold the door and door stops. The front panel should tilt forward and come free. The gas control is pretty straightforward. There is an ignitor that heats up and glows yellow. On my machine it is on the left hand side of the burner and is very obvious. If the ignitor does not heat up, that is probably the problem. You can confirm that the ignitor is getting electricity with a voltmeter. If you don't have one try the other heat ranges on the dial. It is unlikely that all the control positions would go bad at once, so if none of them make the ignitor work I'd recommend replacing it. If the ignitor works then a solenoid (electric control valve) should open and allow gas to flow into the burner. If the ignitor goes off without the burner starting, then the primary solenoid needs to the replaced. If the burner lights but does not stay on, then there are two potential problems. There is a flame sensor that detects the fact that the burner is on and sends a signal to a second solenoid to keep the gas on. It may be hard to tell which is the problem without a meter. My bet would be the solenoid. If the gas comes on properly and stays on for more than a minute or so, but then goes off and does not come back on I think you have a thermostat problem. There are two (on my machine) one to prevent overheating and one that cycles that gas on and off to maintain temperature. The high limit thermostat is to prevent fire if the cycle thermostat fails. All the parts are available online and range from about $16.00 to $35.00. Hope this helps - good luck

Posted on Jul 06, 2009

canbruce75
  • 1776 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer Stopped Heating

Use a multimeter to check the heating element. You can't always go by looks. Check continuity and if there is none, the element is defective. Another thing to check is the thermal fuse. It is about an inch long and is usually attached to the exhaust duct. Use the meter to check it as well and if defective, replace it. Sure hope this helped and best wishes.

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Whirlpool AWZ 650 condenser dryer

MY FILTER LIGHT IS ONN ALL THE TIME, HOW DO I CLEAN THE FILTER...WHERE IS IT, IS IT THE ONE BELOW THE FRONT DOOR THAT PULLS UP AS IN THAT CASE I'VE CLEANED THAT?

Posted on Aug 27, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: My Whirlpool Imperial Series Dryer is 4 years old. NO Heat.

It may not be the heating element causing your problem. There are other components that can fail that will cause the same symptoms. The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

If you have any questions, please let me know. Please inlcude your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) when asking questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

rogrrabbit
  • 986 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool AWZ 7303 tumbling but not drying.

blower wheels will get loose in dryers. Sometimes they will get a whole lump of lint in them or you can hear a rattling noise in the dryer, this is the blower wheel, its worn out and it can cause the fuse to blow too,or it can half *** work and take fifty forever's to dry the clothes.Or it could be just that the dryer needs a good blowing out .I use a lawn blower to get all the lint out of the dryer as well as the vent pipe and vent to outside. I take the filter HOUSING out and wash it also. That is, I remove the housing and clean is good! Making sure that the dryer is properly flowing air is a good thing!

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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