Question about Kenmore Microwave Ovens
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
If not, please post your brand and model.
It's probably the motor, but possibly the coupler.
One quick check is to remove the turntable and support / roller ring and try to turn the coupler. It should be a little hard to get started, then you should hear a whirring sound, not a clicking or grinding, which would indicate a bad motor.
If the coupler turns loosely with no resistance, then it's probably bad.
Here is my text on replacing couplers, which had steps which are necessary when replacing motors. Note that if yours is a built-in model, ignore the part about turning it on its side *grin*
NOTES ON REPLACING TURNTABLE COUPLERS
Copyright 2007 by William E. Miller - MicrowaveDisplay.com
UNPLUG THE OVEN FROM THE WALL FIRST OR YOU WILL EXPOSE YOURSELF TO LETHAL VOLTAGES!
Note that I am not encouraging you to work on electrical items if you are not qualified, and I assume no liability for any consequences of your decision to do so.
When replacing the turntable coupler on most models, it is necessary to loosen or remove the screws that mount the turntable motor to the bottom of the chassis.
It is usually easier to do this with the microwave oven on its right (heaviest) side because you will need two hands for alignment.
Be sure to put a towel or similar cushion on the work surface to avoid scratching the oven wrapper (oven cover) or the work surface.
It is not necessary to remove the wrapper or the wires from the turntable motor itself, but you may need to remove a small metal duct covering the turntable motor if your oven has one.
It should only be held on by one or two screws.
Although a broken coupler may come out easily or even fall out, the new coupler will not go in without at least loosening the turntable motor.
Look at the hole in the new coupler. You'll notice it has (most do have) a flat side to it. That flat side will line up with the flat side on the motor shaft.
When the old coupler is out and the motor is loose, you can ease the new coupler in the hole with one hand while turning the coupler very slightly back and forth as you gently push the motor toward it. Do not force the part in.
When the coupler has mated properly with the motor, you should feel it go in.
Be sure it's right, or you may break the new coupler or bend the mounting ears of the motor when you attempt to tighten the screws.
Reassemble in reverse order.
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Posted on Jan 13, 2008
This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or occasionally a problem on the control panel.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.
Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.
Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. Other times, it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.
We have critical safety & disassembly info (including a how-to video) at our site, linked here.
If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.
We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
This may be due to the microwave section not working. Check the high voltage diode if it is ok, replace the Magneton.
Posted on May 30, 2009
We see (and repair) this
a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which
we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a
week or so.
At our Web site, you can get details of our service, plus we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.
The lights can can be inoperable or stuck on or no bright, too. Sometimes this will similarly affect the exhaust fan operation or inside light, too.Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number from the tag on the unit) for more information & help.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
William E. Miller, AS-EET
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
SOURCE: Turntable does not rotate
Well it seems that there is some fault in the turnable motor, turntable system consists of the motor and coupler, turntable support with rollers and the tray.
I have a video link to help you more on this -- how a turntable motor should sound when you rotate it by hand... please follow the below link -
If motor grinding... etc., it means you may have a bad motor or plastic coupler.
Post further comments if you need more help....
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
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