Question about Miele T7744C Dryer

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When drying the laundry,(Miele T7744C) water does not get into the properly closed condenser unit at the top anymore but is accumulating on bottom of the dryer, I hear it sloshing under the drum. Also some leakage on left front on floor. I had some fluff accumulating and cleaned the condenser unit below etc. All clean. Can pipe from condenser unit below to plastic condenser unit in top be blocked? If so, where is it? Thank you.

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  • Miele Master
  • 12,223 Answers

Test this steps and fix it. God bless you


Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Posted on Jul 31, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

dniro592006
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SOURCE: Miele dryer leaks water.

sounds like a washing machine problem

its not spinning clothes dry

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: Miele T355 timer doesn't latch

Modern dryers use a step motor on the timer, as opposed to a fixed rate timer seen in older models. The timer advances using one of two different mechanisms, depending on the model. On most, the timer receives a signal from the thermostat that a predetermined temperature has been reached - on others it receives the signal from the moisture sensor (if so equipped).

Posted on Jul 20, 2009

  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: We have a miele dryer T 234 C and a recent has

Hi most likely seals on heat exchanger (condenser unit).
Lock heat exchanger in place.the should no movement at all.if movement you will require a rear seal for heat exchanger.Where heat exchanger seals in condenser box clean with scourer. check bottom of door seal for debris.

Posted on Mar 30, 2010

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: Hello - I have a

1...You may have more than one problem on your problem with your dryer not heating.
2...Your noise (ba-ba-dum) is being made by your drum rollers that probably have flat spots on them and is in need of being changed.
I will include two solutions to your two problems, I am not sure if the disassembly of the dryer that I am going to send if for will be applicable to your dryer disassembly but it may help
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Problem 1...Not heating

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Problem 2...
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication, or maybe your drum belt has slipped off of the idler arm pulley.
If you have a front loading machine,

Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer.
Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch.
Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt.
Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm
pulley and motor.
Now is a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the
idler arm pulley and also to check the belt condition for wear.
Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go
to reinstall the belt.
Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots
or wear on them replace them.
If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them then they probably
only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade
of machine oil such as 3 in One oil.
Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.
Please rate me

Posted on Dec 29, 2010

  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: Miele T250c dryer, has power but the start light

Hi Most likely reason for start light not illuminating is the door lock part number 5712492

Posted on Feb 01, 2011

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