When it idles sounds good but as soon as i put it into gear it chokes out. i cleaned carb but i found out i didnt take the floats apart but i cleaned inside an outside of carb. my friend thinks the left...
first things first, what kinda bike are we working on? you say 2000 250r i'm getting its a twin cylinder from your left piston remark...... my crystal ball is telling me it's a ex 250 ninja. Am i close? Ok moving i'm going off of just my ability to tuning blind. First the carb is more then a float and a blow to hold gas, its the step in proper tuning, It effects every part from idle to red line. there is alot happen in that little magic box. we will hit the basics. when you first remove the carb and your holding it in your hand, looking down the throat you dont see much, a slide, a needle, and some small wholes. the C.V. carb raises the slide with vacuum presser, the more you open the butterfly ( the round disk looking thing in the throat ) the more air the motor pulls in causing a vacuum lifting the slide pulling the needle out of the hole. Now remove the cap on the top of the carb, you'll find a spring, and the needle slide remove this. flip the carb over remove the float bowl, laying in front of you will see a float, ( the plastic part, older carb had metal floats) you'll need to remove this there is a pin you may need to tap on it with a pick BE-CAREFUL the posts will break easily, next the float needle will be next if it is not hooked to the float. the float needle sits in a seat, the float needle and seat make the valve that lets the gas into the float bowl, inspect the seat and float needle to make sure that they are not nicked. ok the main jet is the next, when your looking down at the carb it will the taller of the "stems" in the middle, there are a few parts in the stack. unscrew the main jet again be-careful they are brass and soft the main jet is going to have a hole in it make sure it is clean, the main jet is what feeds your beast when you start getting off idle. The idle jet is next, you'll find this jet IN the other " stem " you;ll need a smaller flat head and i cant stress the point be careful they are brass and WILL strip easy. remove this jet insure it is open. next is the air/fuel screw it will on the outside of the float bowl on the bottom, most likely one the front ( the part that goes to the motor) the factory puts a small alum. plug over it to do two things 1st keep people that dont know how to tune a carb from messing with it, 2nd keep people that dont know how to tune a carb from messing with it. the cap is most likely been removed due to the age of the bike. if it has been simply unscrew the screw. there will be a screw,a spring,a metal washer then a rubber washer. put then back this way. after you have it out take some carb cleaner and spray inside the hole you should see it come out the idle jet hole and a small hole inside the thoat of the carb. , now that its clean put it back together, all the right way. if you have more then one repeat, now the carbs are on the bike they need to be synchronized, this is something that most people cant do in there home shop. if your piston was going out you would know it makes a hell of a noise. your cylinder is most likely not firing. give it a whirl and let me know how it works
If you have any more questions let me know
Apr 18, 2011 |
kawasaki Ninja 250R Motorcycles