Question about Samsung Refrigerators

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Samsung 4-door refrigerator RM255BARB-XAA suddenly quit dumping ice. The displayed temperature of the freezer will read -10 degrees, but is actually 21 degrees when measured. The refrigerator compartment is also approx. 10 degrees higher than displayed. The lower bins are warmer than the requested temp settings. Problem is not related to freon; all fans and compressor appear to be working. Self-diagnostic displayed code 25, which is a 'Uart communication error.' We replaced the main PCB board, with no improvement. Any suggestions? Thanks!

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

BIKER T
  • 909 Answers

SOURCE: The refrigerator side is not cooling.

ALMOST DEFINATELY YOU WILL HAVE AN ELECTRONIC CONTROLLED AUGER(MOTOR)CONTROLLING THE AMOUNT OF CHILL ENTERING THE FRIDGE COMPARTMENT. IF YOU SET THE FRIDGE TO MINIMUM AND LISTEN CAREFULLY, THERE SHOULD BE A SOUND INDICATING THE AUGER IS WORKING.( OPENING AND CLOSING THE FLAP). SET TEMP. TO MAX AND LISTEN. IF NOTHING, IT COULS BE A DEFECTIVE MOTOR OR FAULTY THERMISTOR(TEMP. PROBE).

Posted on Aug 17, 2007

fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: refrigerator compartment not cooling

If you are sure the fan in the freezer is running and you don't feel any air flow out of the top middle vent inside the fridge section, then the damper motor must be bad. The damper motor is behind that vent cover inside the fridge section.

Posted on Nov 16, 2007

watugot
  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: Samsung RS253BASB SidebySide Fridge Not being Cooled

Your fridge has seperate evaporators for the fridge and freezer sections with a variable speed compressor.
The diagnostic test is telling you that the main control board (PCB) is not communicating properly with the display board where you set the temps, or it is not sensing the condition of the fridge properly, either the fan speed or thermistor resistence.
I do not have a manual in front of me so I can't guide you directly, but look in the manual you have and find the tests for the fridge thermistor and fridge fan motor and follow those instructions. If they are correct according to the manual, you probably need to replace the PCB (PBA in parts diagram) located behind the machine inside the compressor compartment, or possibly the user control board which is the the display board that you use to set the temps.
The service manual you have should give tests for the display board as well, but my bet is the main board in the back.
Thanks/Mike

Posted on Dec 08, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Freezer quits working

Solution Found! The problem is when the temperature surrounding the refrigerator in the garage falls to < 45 degrees, the thermostat regulating the refrigerator will not call for the compressor to kick in to provide cooling (it's temperature requirements are being met). Since there is no demand, the compressor will not cycle, which is how the freezer is kept cold, and the freezer eventually warms up to match the refrigerator temperature. Frigidaire makes a "Cold Kit" that I ordered and installed from RepairClinic.com for $22 (Item #: 1037646; Description: Garage kit). It's basically a strip heater that runs off the control power to warm the thermostat and causes the compressor to cycle once to twice a day to keep the freezer frozen. After installation, the refrigerator stays at 40-45 and the freezer stays around 0 degrees.

Posted on Mar 19, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Error Code ER FF

I had the same problem. I can tell you that simply unplugging the fridge and letting it defrost isn't going to work. You need to get take it apart.

I had the Er FF code about 2 months ago and let the freezer defrost for a couple hours and it started working again. Then two days ago I got the error again. This time I decided to get inside there.

First and foremost, UNPLUG the fridge and TURN OFF the water!

Next empty everything out of the freezer and start taking it apart. You have to get everything out of it to get that back panel off. This includes the ice maker and the rails that the drawers slide on.

Now that the freezer is completely empty there are two screws that hole the back panel on. In my freezer one is a white screw high in the center and one was a gold screw in the little panel that the ice maker hooked up to.

Next grab the back panel by the little fins on the top of it in the middle. Give it a good firm pull, but take care not to yank it too far... it's still connected by wires back there. When I pulled my panel out I found a HUGE chunk of ice on the top of the panel just to the right of the fan that feeds cold are to the fridge. Get that thing off of there taking care not to damage the foam insulation and watch those shiny metal fins that are behind the panel.

While you're putting it back together try to dry everything off as much as possible (I tried see the bright side of the whole evolution and realized I could really clean my freezer).

Once it's all put back together plug that baby in, turn on the water, and enjoy the next four hours as it gets back to being cold.

I'd say you need moderate tinkering skill to do this. If you only own one screwdriver and you never use it you should probably call someone.

Hope this helps!

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

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