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Clean internal filter

My filter has stopped ejecting water from the waterfall slot at the top but is still running...any help?

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Its gunted up take apart and clean

Posted on Aug 04, 2013


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How do I assemble my internal filter

It's pretty basic, though I've not seen one of this model up close, they're all pretty similar. The motor, if it's inside the box, will fit at the bottom, and the cord usually runs up the inside. Typically there's a guide channel or something to keep in one corner.

If the motor isn't inside the box, it's on the bottom outside and the cord runs up the outside. The filter media fit into slots inside the box. If it takes one cartridge, just slide it down into the slots so it sits below the top edge. If there are two slots, it can take two media cartridges, one behind the other. One may be carbon and one may be some sort of polyester stuff, but it won't really matter which goes where, so long as they fit into the slot.

And you don't HAVE to use the pre-made cartridges if you'd rather not. It's quite possible to use bulk media and it's cheaper.

I'd go with a small bag of ceramic media, placed on the bottom of the filter box firest. Then I'd place a folded wad of polyester floss on top. Just make sure the floss is not packed in too tightly and that it does not rise over the top edge of the filter.

You can also buy cut to fit filter pads; some with carbon infused into them, some plain, some with nitrate removers infused into them. Cut to the right size and slip into the box vertically.

You also do not NEED carbon. Carbon is very useful but not necessary for daily use. Best used to remove certain medications, bad smells or discolouration from water. If none of these things are problems, the space you'd give to carbon is better used for either more ceramic or more floss. To clean, simply rinse the bag of ceramic pieces in old tank water ( some you took out for a water change), and squeeze out the floss or pads in old tank water about once every two or three weeks, or whenever you notice the filter is slowing down or the media is pushing upward in the box. That means it is getting clogged up.

I find bulk floss is much cheaper, and ceramic will last almost indefinitely, so they're a much better buy overall than the cartridges or pads.

Hope that helps some.

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Your problem is the thermal switch is tripping off. this means there is some supply or voltage problem. Most likely fix is replacing the capacitor.

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GWL11 When the water is waterfalling over the clothes the pump some times screams. The waterfall goes from a trickle to waterfall. Sounds like the intake is plugged at times. How do i get to the pump? If...

The pump is underneath the washer. You release the locking tab and twist the pump and it drops out for cleaning or replacement. I have an older manual you might want to take a look see at: HERE

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there is a hose that runs from the soap box to the drum to let the water into the drum if it is not connected or has perrished then that would explain the waterfall

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How do I prime my outside of the pond waterfall pump?

I would take the intake hose off the pump and fill it with water and with the pump running I would hokk upthe intake hose.

I also would if possible have the pump lower than the pond.

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Quisinart DCC 1100 Series Coffeemaker

Hello sjones29,
This should be an easy fix. In one of the corners, under the top of the lid, you will find a water filter stick with a carbon filter that is likely clogged. Pull it out and remove the filter. Shine a light into the cavity of the unit and clean out the debris that may be in there. Replace the filter holder. (You can buy more filters on Amazon inexpensively). Filters are good for about 60 days. Then do a run through of water/vinegar solution. It should be 2 parts water and 1 part water. When done, run through a pot of fresh water to rinse. This should stop the light from blinking and make it so you can enjoy some great coffee.
Hope this helps and good luck! I appreciate positive feedback. :o) Thanks. NormanZ

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My Asko T721 Electric Dryer is having drying troubles

Here's the answer:
The dryer has a thermo protection "fuse" that pops-out when the lint filter is not cleaned and air will not flow properly. When the airflow is restricted the dryer gets too hot and the "fuse" pops. Then it will not run unless you stand there and hold the start button in. As soon as you stop pressing the button the dyer stops running.
Clean the filter ESPECIALLY the "internal" filter. This one is behind the lower skirt of the machines face. There are two Torex head screws (T20) to be removed and the skirt comes right off.
Inside you see two red handles that you turn to open the filter door. Open the door and pull out the filter. It is a long metal finned box. Take it to your bathtub and run a ton of water through both ends to remove the lint inside. You'll be surprised at how much.
O K now let's "fix" the "fuse". Here it is likely you will need to pull the machine away from the wall. The fuse is a black plastic button about the size of a penny. It sits in the center of the machine's backside. It faces up a bit and if you have clearance you can reach your arm over the machines top and press it "in" with a finger. It clicks when you do so. This part is a no brainer. The dyer will now start properly.
The hard part to all of this is pulling the machine away from the wall since like me you probably have it sitting on top of an Asko washer. Take your time. You can do it.

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