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Heat element for kenmore 110.c85862400

Remove heating element for a kenmore elite dryer

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: replacing the heating element Kenmore dryer 110 64892

nestor, on the posted model, you want to drop the lower front panel. Take a puddy knife and push in on the clips on each side and it will pull off. Kill the power to the dryer. On the right you will see the heater housing. The housing will have a front deflector. You can remove that deflector by removing the screw on the bottom or simply just bend it down out of the way. Remove the 2 wires on the left that attach to the element itself. On the left side of the housing there will be a quarter inch screw that holds the element in place. Use a small socket set to get it off. Now the element will pull right out of the housing. Sometimes they are difficult to pull out but it will come out. Did you ohm out that element to make sure that was the culprit? Catriver.

Posted on Dec 09, 2007

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Elite dryer Model:110.C60952990 almost no heat.

Before assuming you may have a component failure, do a little routine inspection of the dryer and exhaust vent ducting.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be because the exhaust ventilation ducting is clogged. If you can't remember the last time the exhaust vent was cleaned, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to dryer performance problems. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat, causing poor drying results and eventual failure. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.

There is no lint screen that catches ALL the dryer lint. Some lint will always get exhausted with the moisture from your clothing. If the exhaust vent is kinked or has excessive bends that create choke points, lint will accumulate in these points. Once the lint starts to accumulate, the moisture from your clothes starts to collect in it, and more lint get trapped. This eventually creates a clog. The Rule of Thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the exhaust ventilation ducting, the BETTER.

A simple test to determine if you have a clog somewhere is to remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the back of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees). If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry as they should, then you need to inspect the ducting thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.

If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.

If your exhaust vent runs to an attic, this is a poor design that gravity will always win because of the resistance the blower fan meets trying to push the exhaust up the wall. The lint will eventually collect in the ducting going up the wall and have to cleaned out from time to time.

Also, make sure you don't crush the dryer hose behind the dryer when you push it up against the wall. You should always leave plenty of space behind a dryer to prevent this from happening.

Rodents and birds are anotehr cause of dryer problems. If they have access to the outside exhaust vents, birds will build nests in them and mice love a warm place with plenty of bedding material (lint makes a nice nest). Make sure the exhaust vent is at least a foot from the ground and use a louver type cover to keep pests outside. Do not use a screen. It can resist air flow and clog.

In addition, you should be using semi-rigid metal type ducting that resists kinking, crushing and rodent infestation.

If the air flow is weak, then you need to inspect the dryer INTERIOR to see if the air blower is working properly and is not clogged. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. Failue to do so can lead to component failures and is a potential fire hazard.

If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: kenmore elite 110 62974100, it heats up and the

kenmore dryer elite he model 110- runs but has no heat

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: How do you replace the heating element on kenmore

Have you confirmed the heating element is bad? There's more to the dryer heating circuits that can cause a no heat problem besides the heating element.

If your dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

Now...if you have determined the heating element is definitely bad, and this is a Kenmore Elite as the one you posted this question under, the following link explains how to access the heating element and replace it: http://www.fixya.com/support/r3677025-elite_duet_dryer_heating_element If you need further assistance, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Jan 06, 2010

  • 4336 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite electric dryer-65942401 and it runs

You need to check the breaker, often the heat 1/2 of the 220 volt breaker trips and is not visually obvious. Best to know so check with a volt meter, or forceably turn off the breaker, FULLY off, press hard, and then back on and test again. If it keeps happening, you may need to have an electrition investigate.

There is very little failure of heating elements, but not unheard of. More common is a bra wire shorts the element. remove it and often you are good to go, but sometimes it burns through.

Posted on Oct 13, 2010

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In terms of likelihood, here is what's wrong:
1) The heating element has failed.
2) One of the several "overheat thermostats" has overheated and failed.
These are found in the back or the bottom of the dryer in the rear.
3) One of the wires to something, like the heating element, has burned in two.
4) The panel where the electric cord attached to the back of the dryer has failed. This will be inside the back of the dryer, usually behind a small plate.
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Could be the sensors on the side of the heat element sleeve or the heat element itself. You will need to unplug the unit and remove the back of the unit. The heat section is in the bottom left. There is a large tube hooked to it and you have to remove that first. You might then be able to get the wires of your volt meter in and check for continuity on both sensors and the heat element itself. The heat element wires come out toward the front of the sleeve. You will have to lay on the floor to do this so now is a good time to mop under the dryer. Or take it into the garage and remove the case and make it real easy. I am assuming that you have already checked to make sure the vent is clear? Just for giggles try running it without the vent hooked to the wall first and see if it heats up then. If not then go forward with the other things I said.

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