Question about Ovens
What does it mean when the display shows code "1c31" when trying to bake?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Boone, by the sound of your post it sounds like the power relay board could be bad. If you had a stuck or shorted keypad, you should be getting a different code. The F2 code means an overheated condition. If it's a double oven it could mean a secondary board failure. The way to go on this would be to ohm out the temp sensor first. Should read about 1100 ohms at room temp. Another way to check it is to swap the bake and broil wires on the power relay board. They will be marked BA and BR. Fire the oven up again and if the bake element comes on then you know that the broil relay is stuck or shorted. Without being there to do the tests, I believe that the problem lies in the power relay board. The part number for the board is 71003431. Priced around 116.00. Jenn-Air usually has a 5 year warranty on these parts. Hope this points you in the right direction. Catriver..post back
Posted on Apr 10, 2007
you either have a bent door hinge or a broken door spring.
check the hinges by opening the door and see if it opens past 90 degrees. if it leans towards the floor then the hinges are bent.
if not then your door springs are broken off. you can check this by seeing if the door "feels" heavy when opening.
either way the door should close tight against the frame when up and the light should not come on without opening the door.
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
My Jenn Air 1995 wall oven was working fine until one day the oven and the oven gas burner did not turn ON. I had electricty (make sure you did not trip a breaker) since my front panel LCD and clock was OK. I had a good gas supply.
My oven is an "pilot-less" oven, it uses an electric igniter. Although the "ignitor" was "glowing red hot", the problem is that the gas valve depend on a certain amount of current. If you have a 120V house system, I think the valve needs 3.3 to 3.6 amps to turn on. The current flows through the igniter and then through the valve, as in a same path, like water. So you need an AMP meter to check proper current flow. I read 2.4 amps. I replaced the "glowing red hot" igniter with a new one, Vo"la it was fixed.
Bottom line if you have the oven plugged in OK and you see some life (clock), and you have the gas turned on, most likely the igniter is bad. Second choice would be the oven's thermostat (the temp knob that you turn, say to 350F), or it could be the gas valve.
All three are in same current circuit. The igniter gets the most abuse so I would start there first -good luck!
Posted on Dec 18, 2009
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