Question about GE Profile JT912 Electric Single Oven
Our GE profile JT912-30" electric over keep tripping circuit breaker. It started last week. Everything was working for last 4 years. I doubt it is breaker issue. After resetting the breaker it get tripped even if we don't turn the oven "on". I opened the front control panel. However I couldn't find any wiring diagram anywhere on-line.Any help would be greatly appreciated.
See this steps and fix it. God bless you
. Top element
If the element only works partially or not getting red hot at the "Hi" setting, the problem might be with a burned out receptacle that the element plugs into. If this is the case, replace both the element and the receptacle.
You can usually tell when the element itself burns out. It might have small holes or bubbles on the coil. Replace the element, if found defective.
2. Infinite switch
Another reason, why the element would not start, might be a defective infinite switch (located behind the control panel, with the burner knob on its shaft). Replace the switch if found defective.
Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/rangeoven-repair-help.html#2-2#ixzz2aSmUeYiW
Posted on Jul 29, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE Profile Oven FTP18 - F7 Code
The F7 problem is usually caused by a short circuit between segments of the ribbon cable connecting the touchpanel to the ERC. Open the touch panel. Insert a slip of paper (yes paper) between the two segments of ribbon cable where it exits the slot in the touchpanel. Try to work the paper down as far as possible. A piece of file card may work better. See the attached photo. If you have a metal touch panel, also add slips of paper between the ribbon cable and the edges of the slot. I have shared my solution with over 795 folks with the F7 problem. Most report success. Cleaning the contacts is a myth. It is only a short time solution as when you move the cable you are temporarily disrupting the short circuit, but it will grow back. The short is caused by what is know a dendrite. It is a growth from the silver traces on the membrane switch conductors. If you want more technical information, contact me at email@example.com. The solution should work for all ovens made by GE including Kenmore as far back as 1998. Don't be concerned about putting paper in the top of the oven. GE places a set of instructions in the top of the oven. Many folks have replaced touchpanels only to have the problem return.
Posted on May 29, 2007
SOURCE: ge profile oven loc
hey - I figured it out! hold down the 9 and 0 at the same time for 3 seconds! or it might be another combination depending on your oven - it is probably the 2 keys that the messge is under
Posted on Oct 03, 2008
most of the time a simple fix....
you have to trick the door lock mech into cycling through the cleaning process (takes about 20 seconds)
Print Range - “LOCKED DOOR” flashes in the display
If “LOCKED DOOR” is flashing in the display of your range or oven, and the self-clean cycle has not been selected, follow the steps below to reset your control:
Posted on Mar 18, 2010
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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