Question about Hardware & Accessories
My timer is hooked up to garden hose drip system. It is not coming on at the designated time or at all. Just installed new batteries hoping that would help. Not helping. The timer is about 5 years old. Does it need replacing?
Just replace it, 5 years is a good run for battery operated outdoor device:
Copy following links to identify common brands and download manual. Green thumb appears to repackage orbit timers.
Posted on Jul 29, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the extra white wire from timer goes to the group of white wire ganged together in rear of box. you need to connect a jump wire to tha group and lead to timer. grey wire goes to black. red to red.
Posted on Jan 02, 2010
reading the specs i should say its a timer for only one zone. you can use it for one zone switching or for the pump. sorry.
Posted on Feb 14, 2010
The original timer either was a mechanical wind-up clock or it used a "power stealing" circuit to keep itself powered while it was turned on. The new timer doesn't have this feature. While the light bulb is off, it can run on a small amount of power drawn through the light bulb, but when it turns on the bulb, there is not enough voltage left to keep the switch electronics powered, so when its power supply capacitor runs out of charge, it can't keep the bulb turned on. It probably also forgets its settings.
The only (safe) way to use this model is to bring in a neutral wire. The timer should be connected as follows:
Black: connect to house black from panel (always live when breaker is on).
Red: connect to house black from light fixture.
White: connect to house neutral (white).
Green: connect to house ground (bare copper or green).
If the wires in the box come from one of the porch lights through a conduit (this seems likely; I don't think there are any other legal methods that would leave out the white wire), then it should not be too difficult to add the white wire. Tape a pull string to one end of the wires and pull them out of the conduit at the other end. Bundle a 14 gauge white wire with old wires (tape it to the pull string) and mark the black wire that goes to the light bulbs at each end so you know which one to connect to the red timer wire. Put some wire pulling lubricant on the wire bundle (it will probably pull a lot harder with the extra wire) and pull it all back into the conduit using the pull string.
Note 1: It's tempting to just push the white wire in with the others remaining in place, but it will probably jam when it runs into a place where the others twist around each other, most likely at an elbow in the conduit. That might damage the insulation of the other wires.
Note 2: 14 gauge is the typical size for a residential light circuit. Use the same size that's in there now, and be sure it is a type UL listed for residential power wiring. Look for the fine print on the original wire; you should be OK if you match that. If more than half of the conduit cross-section will be filled with wire when you add the neutral, consult a licensed electrician to be sure you won't have a problem with crowded wires overheating.
Note 3: An alternative is to use the original wires to pull in a 14-3 cable (black, red, white and ground), provided the conduit elbows have a large enough radius to let it go through. However, the jacket on this cable has considerably more friction than the insulation on wires typically run through conduits.
What happened to the original timer? Maybe we can figure out how to fix it more easily than rewiring the box. I know there is at least one two-wire electronic timer on the market, but I'll have to go over to my church and look up the brand and model. Check back after 7:30 pm CST Oct. 13, 2010.
Posted on Oct 13, 2010
Testimonial: "The white was tucked in the back of the box and painted over so I didn't see it. By connecting as you suggested it woks just super. Thanks"
SOURCE: I have an Intermatic ET70115C
This particular timer allows Holiday settings that override regular settings.
Do a word search of the PDF manual for 'holiday' and 'HLDY' and it takes you to the pages that talk about holiday. For example page 8 talks about the Holiday (HLDY) feature
My strategy is to replace the out-of-sync fall-back and spring-forward days with holidays ... and then the holidays can be programmed to meet the correct buzzer time.
Now let me say something. I am not an expert on this particular timer. I wire and test timers, but I do not own this timer. And the manual is a pretty good slog of information. I have not read the whole manual, but you can add a comment and I am here to assist as you go along. I answer questions for free and am glad to help.
See this image at Imgur: http://imgur.com/rAXYx
The image on Fixya is too small to see the buttons clearly, but the timer lets you program up to 99 Holidays.
Fall-back is off by 14 days, and Spring-forward is off by 14 days, for a total of 28 days.
The manual says 'review and revise data' on page 12 thru 17
Posted on Nov 10, 2010
Testimonial: "This was a great idea. Thanks so much for your help!"
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