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Problem with Green Thumb Timer

I have my Green Thumb timer (model # 27936) hooked up to my garden house and drip system. Timer does not come on at designated time or any other time. It does work when I press Manual mode. Just installed new batteries to see if that was the problem. Help!

Posted by Anonymous on


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I'm trying to install a GE digital timer (model

the extra white wire from timer goes to the group of white wire ganged together in rear of box. you need to connect a jump wire to tha group and lead to timer. grey wire goes to black. red to red.

Posted on Jan 02, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE digital timer model 15086 doe not work

This timer requires a neutral wire, it may or may not be present in the back of your box as a group of wire nutted whites. It is NOT the single white switch leg.

Posted on May 27, 2010

SOURCE: Woods In-wall Timer Heavy Duty, Model #59018 -- I

Quick answer:
1) Programming steps say 'press clock key to return to current time and day'
2) Use mode button and change between AUTO & RND >> try manual override in each mode
3) Does timer turn lights on-and-off with program, or do they blink too?
4) Swap Black and Red wires
5) Try timer on light in different room, on different circuit breaker
6) Timer might be defective

Longer answer:
Woods 59018 manual does not show troubleshooting steps except 'check wiring; switch Red and Black leads; and/or reset programming'

Seems unlikely you could program timer unless timer is wired correctly ... unless there is a short of some kind.

To review wiring.
Green goes to bare ground wire.
White goes to Neutral white wire (neutral is usually 2 or 3 white wires twisted together and shoved to back of box)
Black must connect to Hot from circuit breaker
Red must connect to Load (light, fan, motor etc)

How to test wiring
Disconnect timer and set aside.
Mark each wire
Separate wires in box so they don't touch
Use ordinary tester (you can tape tester leads to wood sticks)
Turn on power
You should have two black wires that were originally connected to switch
Test black wires to bare ground > when tester lights up, that is the Hot wire.
The other black wire goes to Load

Now you want to find the neutral.
Test the Hot black wire to white wires in box.
When tester lights up, that is neutral.

If everything checks out, I guess timer is defective.

Posted on Sep 29, 2010

  • 1583 Answers

SOURCE: I am replacing an in-wall timer switch that

The original timer either was a mechanical wind-up clock or it used a "power stealing" circuit to keep itself powered while it was turned on. The new timer doesn't have this feature. While the light bulb is off, it can run on a small amount of power drawn through the light bulb, but when it turns on the bulb, there is not enough voltage left to keep the switch electronics powered, so when its power supply capacitor runs out of charge, it can't keep the bulb turned on. It probably also forgets its settings.

The only (safe) way to use this model is to bring in a neutral wire. The timer should be connected as follows:

Black: connect to house black from panel (always live when breaker is on).
Red: connect to house black from light fixture.
White: connect to house neutral (white).
Green: connect to house ground (bare copper or green).

If the wires in the box come from one of the porch lights through a conduit (this seems likely; I don't think there are any other legal methods that would leave out the white wire), then it should not be too difficult to add the white wire. Tape a pull string to one end of the wires and pull them out of the conduit at the other end. Bundle a 14 gauge white wire with old wires (tape it to the pull string) and mark the black wire that goes to the light bulbs at each end so you know which one to connect to the red timer wire. Put some wire pulling lubricant on the wire bundle (it will probably pull a lot harder with the extra wire) and pull it all back into the conduit using the pull string.

Note 1: It's tempting to just push the white wire in with the others remaining in place, but it will probably jam when it runs into a place where the others twist around each other, most likely at an elbow in the conduit. That might damage the insulation of the other wires.

Note 2: 14 gauge is the typical size for a residential light circuit. Use the same size that's in there now, and be sure it is a type UL listed for residential power wiring. Look for the fine print on the original wire; you should be OK if you match that. If more than half of the conduit cross-section will be filled with wire when you add the neutral, consult a licensed electrician to be sure you won't have a problem with crowded wires overheating.

Note 3: An alternative is to use the original wires to pull in a 14-3 cable (black, red, white and ground), provided the conduit elbows have a large enough radius to let it go through. However, the jacket on this cable has considerably more friction than the insulation on wires typically run through conduits.

What happened to the original timer? Maybe we can figure out how to fix it more easily than rewiring the box. I know there is at least one two-wire electronic timer on the market, but I'll have to go over to my church and look up the brand and model. Check back after 7:30 pm CST Oct. 13, 2010.

Posted on Oct 13, 2010

Testimonial: "The white was tucked in the back of the box and painted over so I didn't see it. By connecting as you suggested it woks just super. Thanks"

SOURCE: Utilitech self-adjusting wall timer 0192773. I

I have been testing the 0192773, and other timers, for wire and program difficulties.
Good news: your timer is wired correctly. This timer will not operated lights with incorrect wiring.

programming steps are long, but same as other programmable timers.
The 0192773 is a 7-day or sunrise/sunset timer

1) Most programmable timers will not 'work as expected' if there is a conflict in programming.
They suggest you make a schedule of times before programming

2) One of the things this timer offers are individual days -or- groups of days > for example weekend only -or- weekdays only -or- all days of week -plus- individual days. For me, it was a bit confusing keeping that straight while programming

3) Each Program has ON time and OFF time
So Program1 ON has to be set same days as Program1 OFF

4) The other difficulty was how fast the display shifted back to current time when I was programming. If I looked at the instructions for a moment, my display would change before I could catch up. So it's possible that an ON or OFF time could be missed easily.

5) Finally, if you are using the timer as a sunrise/sunset, you need to enter Sunrise or Sunset with program1 ON and program1 OFF

I think the problem is in your programs:
You can use paperclip and hold in reset button for a few seconds and start over
You can press PROG button and and re-check and re-set each program.

By the way, when setting current time, I noticed the timer let you chose a year up to the year 2099. I thought that was an optimistic outlook for both operator and timer.

Posted on Oct 22, 2010

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The "Line" is the power source. The "load" is the device that is being powered.

typically the green wire is the ground wire. I strongly urge you to verify your assumption that is is the common wire. If the green is indeed the ground, and it gets hooked up to common, you will be energizing the cabinet of the unit and posing a serious shock hazzard.

Your curcuit will be as follows.

The power source "Line" will have wires going to the timer. (hooked to the "line" terminals on the timer.)the timer then is supplying the power to the pool pump, and we will reffer to it as the "line".

The two black wires from the pump would be hooked up to the "load" side of the timer.

Typically they would be labled line 1 and line 2 or "L1" and "L2"

If yours are not labled so, describe exactly what terminals you have in detail in both the pump and the timer.

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