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This would be in my motor home to replace the carpeting around kitchen and table areaThis would be in my motor home to replace the carpeting around kitchen and table area
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squeeks in a hardwood floor most times are caused by the hardwood separating from the underlayment (board) and hence it piviots on a nail and you got a squeak !! , there are a few ways to fix this "
if the squeak is located in a spot that is accessible from under the floor , see if you can determine what hardwood and underlayment thickness is , look around behind a floor casement or around a doorway trim with flashlight , find a wood screw that is 1/8 less than this number (two added together ) also locate a drill that is just size of screw shaft you found , drill hole from under the floor (underlayment) just deep enough to penetrate the underlayment (3/4 inch or so) use tape on bit as a gauge , don't drill into hard wood then drive wood screw into hole , the idea is that screw will pull hardwood down to underlayment , screw cant grip underlayment due to hole so this is piviot point . a shot of wood glue on screw threads helps it from coming out too !!
now if space under squeak isn't accessible this is a bit harder but not impossible to do , there are a few special items to get first , one is a glue injector needle !! this typically is used making wood furniture but I have seen a meat basting syringe used in a pinch too, locate the spot close to squeak from top , using a small drill dril down at seam (not in middle of board) just deep enough to hardwood Not underlayment , load up your syringe with wood glue and force it down into hole with needle takes some force to do this , wipe off spilled glue and set a heavy object on this spot for 24 hrs object can be a lg pile of books or I use cement blocks (4) set on a piece of butcher paper (not cardboard) after 24 hr remove blocks and ck for squeak if none use hard setting tinted wood filler to plug hole you made and top off with a dot of varnish to seal it when dry and flat if you still detect the squeak then move over a board or two and repeat process till squeak is gone
Ok,first off you may not need to remove the 1/4 round, being hardwood floor under the carpet, the 1/4 round was probably installed for it and the carpet was installed up to the 1/4 round baseboard.
It is fairly easy to remove carpet and pad. Take a pair of pliers and go to a corner, take a bite of carpet with the pliers and pull. It should come up if no base was installed on top. Now you just work your way around the room pulling up the carpet. once the carpet is free you can roll it up like a burrito, (each side to the middle then roll from one end. The tighter the easier to manage.) or you can fold one side in and cut it into strips 3 foot 4 foot whatever, to make it easier to carry out then roll strips up. Once carpet is out the pad is next. It will have been stapled to the wood floor around the perimeter and where 2 pieces of pad come together. You just pull the pad up, it will tear and the staples will stay in floor but just get rid of the pad, pull it and roll it and carry it out. That will leave you with a hardwood floor with a bunch of staples with pad chunks and tackstrip nailed to the floor.
A pair of pliers and a lot of patience will remove the staples and a pry bar and hammer will remove the tackstrip. A carpet knife available at any Depot for Homes is best for cutting the carpet. The brick on your floor was probably laid on top of the hardwood and wont need any trim, if you want you can trim it with 1/4 round to match the existing. Your transitions from wood to linoleum can be done in flat metal that comes in 1 inch wide or 1 1/2 inch wide gold or silver and nails down with twisted nails of the same color. You can also find wood transition strips or make them yourself, the wood transitions I think look better but cannot be made as flat, so there is a trip hazard issue. Any gloves will work. I have been installing floors for 37 years and I personally dont wear gloves when tearing out carpet and pad.
Having been in the flooring installation end of the business for over 20 years have you considered rubber mat flooring. It is about an inch thick and has interlocking tabs. Maybe I can find a hyper link.
Additionally on the market is a vinyl carpet tile...carpet on top....vinyl on the bottom...with a thin dense done inbetween This is a very popular choice due to the ease of installation...using a peel and stick glue. It allows you to adhere the carpet tile to the floor and if future stains or issues arise you can take the carpet tile up and replace it. Very comfortable under foot....used on many commercial applications and now available at retail outlets like LOWES and home depot
Search the web for carpet tile...and releaseable adhesive for carpet tile.
You can compare prices vs wood, but I would not choose a wood floor personally.
In some cases they will slide out far enough to repair the floor but you need to be extremely careful to prevent damage and personal injury. *I am not responsible for any damage or injury caused during repairs based on this free advice* First, you will need to remove the inside fascia, then un-staple the rubber seal all the way around and then remove the inside frame that the fascia screwed to so that the slide will go out of the opening. Next you will need to start opening the slide. Right before it clears the opening you will need to go underneath and insert blocks of wood between the floor of the slide and the frame of the slide rack and pinion to keep the slide lifted in the proper location for re-installation. now move the slide out just far enough to clear the side wall of the unit. Once it is clear of the side wall place a few saw horses and or jack stands under the outside edge of the slide to add more support. Now that you are clear you can begin the process of replacing the damaged floor. Start by pulling the carpet/linoleum back. The flooring will only be stapled down so once you remove the staples it should peel back pretty easily. Once you get to a wall you will have to cut along the edge of the wall for the flooring to release (since the flooring was installed first then the walls this will be necessary). When you are ready to reinstall you will have to use some 1/4 round trim to resecure. Once the flooring is peeled back determine how much floor will need to be replaced and mark your cut points and set your saw blade cut depth to 3/4" (you do not want to cut too deep) and make your cuts. Remove the damaged floor. Now cut some scab blocks to insert along the cut edges to where half of the block surface in under the existing floor and the other half will be under the new floor. Cut a new piece of decking and install. To install the blocks and the new deck I use wood glue and screws. If you are using linoleum flooring you may need to fill the crack and sand the floor so that the seam does not show over time. Reverse the process for installing the slide out. Good luck!
Turn the machine on and look at the bottom. Turn to the two settings. The setting that stops the platten wheel from moving is for hard wood floors. If you cant tell, then setting 1 is most likely for carpets and 2 is for hard wood floors. Your machine is primarily a carpet vacuum cleaner, so 1 should be for carpets.
open the freezer and when the drawer stops you can pull from the door and it should roll . make sure that a foor is not set in front to prevent roll out .. mm . different ways to get any frig out depends on the floor its on . wood is easy carpet not so easy and tile has grouves and make's it hard. so just use you head . i use nylon slides to help an carpet and to protect wood floors . some dent easly ....
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