Question about Washing Machines
Top load washer will not drain. tested the pump, it is good. checked all hoses, good and functional, nothing stuck in drain or hoses. tested the voltage to the washer pump, read .6 volt for 1 second, when the timer moved from wash to drain cycle, then stops. nothing after that.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If pump works fine or still pumps out water, then it is a timer malfunction. Replace the timer and you should be fine. To locate a part number for your timer, refer to www3.sears.com with the model number off your washer.
Posted on Mar 14, 2008
First thin I would try is to check your thermal fuse for continuity.
Its located on the tunnel that incases the heasting element.
Try putting the machine into diagnostic mode. If it won't enter diagnostic mode, then you need to replace the main control board.
You also want to check the drain hose, the end of the hose is tapperd and tends to collect lint. Run a coat hanger up the hose and see if you can fish something out also check that belt.
Posted on Oct 06, 2008
SOURCE: UL Code
Solved the unbalanced problem - open the top of the machine (press in with a flat putty knife about 3" in on the front on each side while lifting up as there are 2- 1" wide catches). Once both sides are unlatched, raise the lid then slightly lift the rear of the lid so that it fits into the curved part at the top of the hinges then open all the way - tape the lid to the top so it doesn't flap about and scotch the lid to keep it from falling back down on you. Now, look around - see all that rust? The rust has fallen into and gotten underneath one or more of the 4 white plastic suspension "ball joints" which have probably totally dried out by now from their factory grease because of the water, bleach, and rust particles. Having someone help you, simply lift up on one of the 4 corner suspension rods - gravity and weight is all that holds them down. The white ball will lift out of the socket and still be attached to the rod. Clean out the rust, lightly sand the "socket" with emery cloth, then slop in a fingerful of grease. I used automotive wheel bearing grease with graphite in it. Also scrub off all embedded rust on the white plastic ball. Lower that corner back into the newly cleaned and greased socket and repeat for the other 3 corners. Now when you move the tub around notice how the balls pivot in their sockets like they are supposed to. When they were dry and rusty they wouldn't move enough to allow the tub to twist like it should so it slammed around. Now, shake your head in disgust that after only 2 years there is so much rust that you wonder if it will make it another year before falling apart, close the lid, and try another load. That totally solved my off-balance problem where even a single handkerchief would give the UL error. It is still a finicky machine, but at least once again works like it did when new.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
Remove the bottom panel under the door to access the drain pump. Make sure the washer is unplugged before servicing the pump. The pump will be located under the wash tub in the front of the washer. There should be a small access cover that can be unscrewed to access the inside of the pump. If not, remove the inlet hose to access the pump impeller. HINT: Pull the drain hose from the standpipe and use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain line. This will pull any remaining water out of the drain lines and wash tub. This will minimize the amount of water that spills out of the drain pump when you remove the access cover.
It does not take much to damage this small drain pumps. If you clean the pump thoroughly and it still exhibits drain problems, the manufacturer recommends replacing the pump.
If you require additional assistance, let me know before you rate the solution. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
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