Question about Washing Machines
ADJITATOR IS WEEK
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore 80 series won't spin
If it agitates and drains. leaving your clothes clean but soaking wet. It is most likely the transmission/gearbox. the motor is working otherwise it would not agitate. it is stuck in agitate mode and cannot "shift" into spin mode. new transmission will cost 140-170 and takes 2 or so hours to replace depending on skill level. total repair cost parts+labor $300ish you may want to ante up for a new machine at this point. if you cant to the labor yourself.
part# should be this: tho double check using your own model#
Part # AP3096209
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
Check out this you tube. Had the same problem today. Tipped washer on its side and replaced coupler between motor and gearbox. Parts are about $15
This is a good diagnosis video.
Posted on Dec 20, 2008
Are you sure its the tub seal? There are several things that can cause the washer to leak out from under the bottom as you described. The water pump can develop leaks and cause similar symptoms. Please check again to verify. If the leak is coming from the front area and leaking out from under the washer, it's usually the water pump, or drain hoses. If the leak is coming from under the tub and leaking out around the front and sides of the washer, its usually a tub seal. For better access, you can remove the washer case to check by following these steps:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
Look to the lower right-hand side of the wash tub and make sure the small plastic air hose is still attached to the air dome. If the hose has come loose, snip a small portion off the end and re-insert it on the air dome. These hoses can stretch over time and become loose.
If the hose is still intact, locate the water pump directly in the front of the washer. You will recognize it by the two drain hoses attached to it. These pumps can develop cracks over time and begin to leak. If this is the case, the pumps are not serviceable and must be replaced. Also check the drain hoses for rips or cracks and make sure the hose clamps are snug.
Last of all, check under the center portion of the washer tub. If the tub seal is bad, you will see water tracks dripping on the top of the gearcase.
To re-install the washer case, follow thse steps:
1. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.
If you have questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
NOTE: If you still want to remove the agitator, simply remove the dispenser cap off the center post and remove the plastic cap underneath. There should be a 9/16 bolt underneath that you can loosen with a socket and ratchet. With the bolt removed, the agitator simply lifts off by grasping the bottom flanges and lifting up.
Posted on May 14, 2009
Hi, Remove the cap on the agitator and then remove the inside cover. There is a 7/16" bolt under the inside cover. Remove the bolt and the agitator will lift out. Seperate the 2 pieces of the agitator and replace the dogs. You might have to use a flat blade screw drive and punch out the 4 tabs around the bolt hole in the agitator if this applies.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
The cubic feet of the Kenmore washer model 110 heavy duty is 2.8 cubic feet. Measured to the top water line 14.5 inches and using the radius of the tub of 10.375 inches.
Posted on Oct 26, 2009
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