Question about Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
On these older ovens ther is usually always 120 volts on the elements at all times.
If you check across the element ends with it in bake you should read 240V. If not, there is a problem with the control. With the voltage drop you describe, it sounds like you are losing power on one line of voltage coming to the element.
Post back to let me know what you find out or if you have any questions.
Posted on Nov 24, 2007
Yeah, I have a similar problem. I tried to go into a suggested diagnostic run, but that didn't yield anything. I tried pushing the Sani-Rinse and Air Dry buttons back and forth a number of times. Didn't help.
At first I thought the lock-on had accidently been engaged, but disengaging the "child lock" doesn't help. The lock-on light comes back on and sometimes blinks rapidly. I"ve counted around 7 rapid blinks at times and 3 rapid blinks at other times--in case that makes a difference. The control panel doesn't work--in other words, the dishwasher does not start, even when I can successfully get other lights to come on. I don't want to spend >$100. for a new control panel if that is not really the problem.
Posted on Apr 10, 2008
SOURCE: GE JVM150001 Microwave
I have gone through the testing on the Mini Manual and still have intermittant operation. When I turn the oven on there is a secondary humming noise that indicates the oven is working. I can tell at once if the seconday hum is not there. When the oven starts that econd hum sort of kicks in a second or two after the oven starts. 6 months ago I seated all 4 of the door switches and the oven worked non stop for like 6 months. All of a sudden it went out again like before. Is there more to testing these switches than just continuity or no continuity? Can they be partially bad?
I was going to retest all switches for resistance and connections, as well as Magnatron and other high voltage connections per your Blog
Posted on Oct 06, 2008
SOURCE: Bosch Dishwasher SMU 2046
It doesn't work at all
If your dishwasher doesn't work at all, check these:
Power from the house Is there power getting to the dishwasher? This can be difficult to test, because dishwashers are usually wired directly to an electrical circuit, rather than plugged into the wall. But at least check for a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker.
Door switch The door switch is important because, if it's defective, the dishwasher won't work at all. To reach it, you need to remove the control panel cover, or sometimes the interior liner of the door. If it's defective, you need to completely replace it.
Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dishwasher, burns and breaks the connection. If that's the problem, the wires must be repaired/replaced as necessary. If that's not the problem, check the wiring to the door switch, the wiring between the door and the lower part of the dishwasher, and the wiring to the timer. Repair any broken, burned, brittle, or defective wiring, using the proper appliance-grade wire and connectors.
Timer or selector switch Although it's uncommon, the timer or the selector switch may be defective. If so, you need to replace the defective part, because neither of these can be repaired.
Posted on Oct 20, 2008
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