Question about Whirlpool Dryers
I unplugged the wires and don't remember where they go...does anyone know where I can get a schematic for this or know where the wires go?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a Whiilpool electric
the "moisture sensors " are located just to the right side below the lint filter housing. pop your hea inside and youll see 2 metal strips. thats them. with a scotchbrite pad, you can clean them off, usualy become fouled by dryer sheet residue. twice as long to dry couldalso be an indicator of a vent thats not completly free, kinked or becoming clogged .
Posted on Mar 07, 2008
Electric dryers all use the 30Amp plug and rated wire depends on length of your run and local building codes.
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the TCO/Thermostat replacement kit (if required) is part number 279816. The heating element is part number 279838.
All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
If you have any questions, please let me know. If the model number is NOT correct, please post back with a correct number so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Oct 04, 2009
Here you go again :-)
Posted on Jun 17, 2010
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