Question about De Dietrich Ovens
My De Dietrich double Oven has developed a fault in the Main Oven. The Clock indicator led's are dead and the oven will not switch on. There is a power indicator to the upper right of the Oven thermost position switch which comes on when switched, but the thermostat and timer do not show any sign of life. I have slipped out the oven to look under the top lid and can see a White plastic cover under which is a pcb board and on it are relays etc. This feeds the digital clock which is also dead. The unit started to give problems back in May but has now stopped responding altogether. This Oven is 16 years old, but i am loathe to dump it for the sake of a relay or something silly. Model NO. FX4827E33. Not sure if the "8" is not a "3".
Posted by Anonymous on
1.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.
THINGS TO CHECK:
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
its a fix more than a solution but you can bypass the clock thus allowing the oven to operate again
unplug at the mains and remove the oven from the housing remove the two fastening screws from the metal lid on the top of the oven ,and remove the lid
you will see the timer back panel with 3 wires coming to it, 2 are black (switching line) and 1 is red (Live feed to timer )
If you pull the connectors from the 2 black wires from the timer board and connect the ends together using a connector block, the timer switch becomes inactive and allows the oven functions to operate again.
you will have no timer functions but its a cheap fix and who uses the timer any way
good luck Andy B
ps if anyone has a set of operating manuals for ths oven i would be glad of a copy
Posted on Sep 26, 2008
SOURCE: Oven blows main switch
There is a short circuit between the lower oven control and the lower element.
Disconnect the lower element. Put electrical tape on the loose terminals and turn the lower oven on.
If it does not blow, replace the lower element with a new element.
If it does blow, Check the wiring to the lower element for continuity to the frame of the range.
If you get continuity replace the damaged wire..
Finally, check the control knob switch for continuity to ground on the frame of the oven.
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
hi it is probably the timer not making the switch properly even though it looks like its on stopping power going to the thermostat
Posted on Dec 11, 2009
SOURCE: Upper oven elements don't heat
Hello- 'Successfully' sounds like you were forewarned.... During the 'self-clean' cycle a circuit or connection to the upper elements burned out while attempting to turn stuff inside the oven to ash. Since this is a wall oven my recommendation is for service from a good tech in your area. You may have lucked out with a fried connector, but many times control board is damaged beyond repair and must be replaced. Only on-site diagnostics will confirm, and this is a very heavy unit for most owners to safely service. - Remember- Don't use 'self clean'!! Scrape and clean with soapy water and cloth. Turn on oven to 450deg. for 30 min. Much safer. Less costly. Please acknowledge this post if the info is helpful- Have more if needed. Thanks- Ed
Posted on Mar 23, 2010
The part that needs replacing is the clock timer.
FIRST: ISOLATE THE CIRCUIT.
The front fascia is held on by three clips. Take off the two knobs and gently pry away the fascia fron the left, right and top centre.
The clock timer is held in by four plastic push clips at the top and bottom about 1cm in from the end. Push them in and pull the timer out.
There are now three wires on push clips attached at the back.
Do not take the colours for granted. On my oven just repaired the Live was Black and the Neutral was Red! The black marked 'C' is the input. The side by the trip switch is the output. The Red goes on the other side.
When the timer trips it causes the circuit between the input and output to break.
You have two options now:
Read the serial number of the timer and try and order it (expensive), swap the cables over.
Carefully run an electrical cable between the push clips on both black cables making sure you leave no exposed wire. Your timer and clock however will never work, the oven just does not care about it anymore.
Note: I am not an oven engineer, I am an electrical engineer in another field and have tested voltages and current and believe this to be safe. I have done this on my own oven.
Posted on Sep 16, 2011
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