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Kenmore elite washer model 796.4147

How to self level the drum on my washer

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Jimster
  • 240 Answers

SOURCE: What is the capaity of 2005 Kenmore Elite Washer and Dryer, models 110?

Starting in early 2002, the capacity sizes were changed around a little bit. A normal sized washer now all have the same sized tubs (pretty much) in the 110 series (Whirlpool Manufactured) washers. The capacity is now rated somewhat by the agitator action the washer comes with. Depending on the type of agitator you have, will determine the capacity. King size capacity means you have a pretty good capacity (size wise) than others. You have normal capacity, large capacity, super capacity, king capacity, and I even think they have canyon (yes canyon) capacity. Capacity sizes dont really mean to much though. In order for you clothes to get clean, the must have room in the tub to move. The must be able to float up, then get pulled down by agitator action. That should determine the size of what goes in the washer. Always use same type clothing when doing laundry (i.e. towels with towels, sheets with sheets, etc, this will keep the load balanced better). Watch what you load, comforters are ok (per manufactures ok) but I do not tlike the idea unless its a front loader, and only by itself. Let me know if this helps you out any.

Posted on Jun 01, 2008

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  • 63 Answers

SOURCE: clicking sound.....

must likely something in between drum & basket or rear bearing going bad.call sears ask for service smart agreement it will cover rear shell with bearing &basket in warranty

Posted on Nov 14, 2008

  • 311 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore Elite washer spins to slow cauisng the

If this is occurring mostly on heavier loads your clutch may be slipping. If you take a flathead screwdriver and push down the lid switch so the washer will spin with the lid up, grab the inside of the drum. If you can easily stop the drum its most likely a bad clutch. If you tip the washer back and see oil underneath then its probably your transmission leaking oil onto the the clutch causing it to slip (in which case you need transmission and clutch assy). If you see oil I would probably not bother calling a tech it would be a pretty expensive repair.
IF the problem is with the clutch only it may be worth repairing but to replace the clutch you will have to remove the pump, motor, transmission, and the clutch mounts on top. The other less common possibility could be a bad drive block under the inner tub. hope this helps. _MJ_

Posted on Jan 28, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: MY KENMORE ELITE WASHER WON'T DRAIN.

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Posted on Sep 17, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Changing front door gasket on Kenmore Elite HE 3t

A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn't cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.


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Posted on Sep 30, 2010

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My GE washer GTW460NMKwww, the drum will not balance itself when going into final spine cycle.


Are the clothes evenly distributed inside the drum and the washer not overloaded? The drum is not self balancing, you must take care when loading it to even the weight distribution

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if noisy like plane taking off bearings gone check play on drum by pushing drum back and forth look for large gap between drum and door seal and listen for scratching noise when turning also some machines wont spin if the load is uneven

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Good Afternoon Amy,

I understand that your Frigidaire washer, model# FTF530ES, knocks during the spin cycle. I also see that the drum moves from front to back and not up and down. I suggest making sure that your washer is level from front to back, side to side, and from corner to corner. If after leveling you washer, the drum is still moving from front to back, I suggest contacting your local authorized technician for further assistance. They will be able to diagnose your washer and determine why the drum is moving from front to back. Hope this is helpful.

-Best Regards-
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Samsung washer wf218anw


Possible that the washer is not stable due to level adjustment. Use a spirit level to set the washer so that it will be stable. Check the drum movement and the motor /drum mountings.If you find there is PLAY on the fittings then it must be reset.
Check this link: Drum Bearings.

Jan 19, 2013 | Samsung WF203ANW Front Load Washer

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The Maytag PAV 2300 does not spin right if the load is slightly off balance. It bangs on the side and ordinarily lists to the right. On inspection, the washer is on level.


The list to the right should be resolved. Use a level and level the case left and right, and front to back. The final step is to tilt the machine fully on to the front legs, releasing the self leveling rear legs, and set the machine back down. It should be stable on the 4 feet.

usually this will center the drum and it is more forgiving on balance issues, most of which are common. Be sure to use MORE than enough water for more even loads.

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I have a samsung dryer front loading. it seems that the dryer is not balanced as it wobbles while drying. today the noise got worse, until i pulled the drum toward me then it went back to just wobbling. is...


It is nice these days as many washers and dryers are self leveling with just a little effort. The rear legs have the self leveling setup but if you dryer is old the adjusters maybe rusted. Try this... look at the front from a few steps back you will see the front two legs, they will probably be even. Unplug the dryer and slightly pull away from the wall, not to far as the dryer hose may disconnect. Tilt the dryer forward pivoting on the front legs (just raise the back a couple inches off the floor) and then let it drop. if the legs are self leveling this act may have leveled things. If the legs are rusted a little more aggression is needed maybe with the help of a parts solvent spray (56 or WD-40 etc.)
If your dryer is older then you have adjustable legs that need to be rotated one at a time until the dryer is level.

Feb 02, 2011 | Dryers

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WE recently purchased a front loading Frigidaire washer. I love it except we can't seem to get it level so it doesn't vibrate. It is on a concrete floor and thought the feet were self leveling but that's...


Make sure you have removed all the shipping bolts and straps. Front loaders come with bolts that go thru the back to keep the drum from moving during shipping. If you brought the washer home yourselves you may have left in these shipping bolts. Refer to you installation manual. It will give detailed instructions on how to set up your washer. If bolts are left in place the washer will vibrate and shake excessively and cause major damage if left in for too long.

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Need to recenter the drum


With this style of washer, setting the washer counter balance is relatively easy. All you need to do, stand at the front of the washer and grab the back corners of the washer and tilt it forward, lifting the back edge up about 4-6 inches.

You might want to get someone to help to do this Sarah, unless you had your Wheaties that day! Once you have it tilted up, just let it go, it will set the self-leveling rear legs, which will center the wash tub.

Now that that is done, you can push the washer to line it up with your dryer, etc., to straighten it out (just don't lift the washer up).

You can now use the front two adjustable feet pads, under each front corner to complete the leveling adjustments. You can lift ever so slightly, the front edge to make this eaiser. You might need to use a pair of channel lock or slip joint pliers to turn the legs either in or out to get the washer level.

That should do it, and unless the washer gets overloaded, (with lots of towels and/or sheets) it should stay balanced for quite some time.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

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hope this helps, don't forget to rate me thanks

Try leveling the washer. Check for play along the diagonal corners of the washer cabinet by applying downward pressure. If there is any play at all, the washer will shake during spin and the legs must be leveled.

You have br put your heavy washer on a floor that would be condemned for structural weakness if a building inspector saw it. Try placing reinforcing pads or pieces of plywood on the floor under the washer.
On Maytag top loaders: worn damper pads.
On Whirlpool/Kenmore direct-drive machines: worn snubber pad

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