Question about GE GSD5610D Dishwasher
When starting the cycle, DW starts then the drying led comes on with alarm. DW will not finish cycle. Manual suggests the Sequence Switch. Found one at local parts shop for $63. Will try this unless you have a better idea or suggestion to prove the switch is bad?
Check disposer plug. If a garbage disposer has been recently installed, it is possible the disposer drain plug was not removed. The drain plug is a plastic piece in the disposer that blocks the hole where the dishwasher hose connects. Also check the hose connected to the disposal. Mine apparently had a kink in it. When I straightened the hose the dishwasher drained at full speed (I recently had a plumber re-route a hot waterline. He must has bent the hose). Hope this helps. If not go to the GE website. That's where I found my answer.
Posted on Sep 29, 2008
SOURCE: My GSD3600 GE Dishwasher will
Your diagnosis is pretty good, but the buzzing suggests it may be the capacitor for the pump motor that has failed rather than the pump motor itself. The capacitor phase-shifts the AC current for starting the motor.
The drain pump should run briefly at the start of any wash cycle to clear any residual water from the washer and this appears to be where the failure occurs. The metal rod you can see moving is the actuator/linkage from the solenoid which opens the valve to the sump inlet. This doesn't start the motor and it appears to be working correctly.
You need to test the motor and/or determine where the buzzing noise is coming from.
This is an updated part from GE and may look slightly different to the one fitted in your washer, but all of the components are the same. The solenoid actuator you can see moving when you press start is ringed in blue on the left, the capacitor is the black box on the right, ringed in red and the terminals for the power supply to the motor are ringed in green.
If the buzzing is coming from the black box, you need to replace the capacitor or motor - I'll need to check whether the capacitor can be replaced separately. If you have an ohm-meter, test the motor for resistance/continuity across the two terminals ringed in green. You should get a reading of about 1 to 2 ohms if the motor is good. If the buzzing is coming from elsewhere it may be the solenoid for the water inlet valve.
Please test the motor if you have a meter and try to identify where the buzzing is coming from, then get back to me. You can reply to me by clicking on "Add a Comment" below your question.
Posted on Apr 16, 2011
It would seem like it is a faulty switch, a spring inside might have collapsed and the button that should protrude so that the door can activate it, is too low and not making contact with the door. Check the door as well though, that there is not some button or raised part that is not pressing on the door switch to activate it. If you are stuck for a switch at the moment, stick something to the door that will activate the switch until you can get hold of a new switch.
Posted on Jul 13, 2011
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