Question about Refrigerators

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Do I need a new fridge

Fridge fan is noisy at times.. Making a growling noise, and the compressor is hot, but the cooling coil fan is working. Not sure if the gas is low or what. Any suggestions

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  • 5 Answers

Check for air flow, clean the coils. May need a new condenser fan.

Posted on Jul 28, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: fridge not cooling

Most of the time on a whirlpool the problem is the relay on the compressor sometimes called the start device. I would replace that first. If you need help finding the part let me know. I will need the complete model # from the sticker inside the fridge section. You can look it up with diagrams at http://www3.sears.com/.

Posted on Nov 09, 2007

SOURCE: Frigidaire stand alone Refrigerator won't cool Fans and Compressor work

Ended up having a freon leak in tubing around door. Luckly the warranty was 5 years in sealed system. New one was FREE.

Posted on Feb 23, 2008

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: loud noise from the freezer side

The problem is a buildup of ice on the plastic housing (the curved plastic bit) in the back of the freezer under the fixed shelf where the icetub goes. The fan behind this plastic housing is hitting the ice when the defrost comes on.

Unplug the fridge, unpack the freezer, remove the four screws in the back, take off the sheetmetal backing and let the fridge thaw. You can remove the plastic piece after a while and get the ice off (be careful not to remove the styrofoam insulation by going too quickly).

Reassemble and you're back in business, for a few months. I'm never buying Samsung again myself.

Posted on Sep 20, 2008

docjohn174
  • 943 Answers

SOURCE: fridgedaire side by side fan working, compressor hot, refridgerator and freezer not cooling

.thanks for your question i would try a hard, to start re lay on it after its cooled down. it might just do the trick. the appliance doc

Posted on Oct 30, 2008

  • 306 Answers

SOURCE: Clicking noise coming from whirlpool refrigerator

The clicking sound is a relay called PTC relay. You need to replace it. First be sure to unplug frig. Remove the cardboard cover that covers most backs of the frig units. Remove the plastic cover that is on the side of compressor. It is held on with a metal clip. Now you should be able to see the relay pry the relay straight off. note the wiring and position of relay. Only three prongs on compressor. Go to a parts house for appliance's and with your make and model number should be able to get a new one. Let me know if you need any more help. ken

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

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1 Answer

When we shut the fridge door a loud continuous humming noise comes from the fridge. This seems to be activated by the door light switch at the top. Thank you


There are 2 possibilities I can think of for the hum. When you activate that door switch it activates 2 fans and the compressor. There is one fan located on the compressor and one located in the vent system in the fridge. The second fan is used to circulate cool air evenly through the fridge. I would recommend holding your finger on the door switch and listen carefully whether the noise is coming from inside the back of the fridge or from the lower bottom. Lower bottom could indicate compressor cooling fan or compressor. They would need to be inspected. If it sounds more like the other fan mentioned above it would again need to be inspected. The compressor cooling fans can get stuck or become noisy due to bearing failure. The vent fan can get stuck or noisy but also in some cases if the defrost circuit is not working can chock up with ice and create a buzzing noise as the fan blades strike the ice.

Jan 13, 2017 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

New Hisence fridge freezer noisy and hot


for the noise check the compressor groumits

FRIDGE COILS or door walls SEEM VERY HOT:


The condenser coils do get hot. They can even be to hot to comfortably touch and this is normal.

The refrigerator should not run constantly but shut off with each defrost cycle.

Running constantly and never cycling off can indicate a cooling problem.

One thing to try is to wait till it has been running a few minutes then open the door and turn your cycling thermostat towards the off position. It should cycle off before getting to the off position on the dial.

If it does not cycle off then it's not getting cold enough to satisfy the thermostat. This is likely the reason the refrigerator runs all the time.

A thermometer in a glass of water can be used to check the temperatures in the refrigerator section.

You can check that all fans are running.

the reason the outer side of the door seal area is getting hot is the compressor is over heating, probably the condenser fan motor to your compressor is bad.
It should be a little warm but not hot. they don't use heaters anymore ( some older models still use heaters) around the doors, instead they use the condenser coils to remove condensation and moister, you might want to check your condenser coils on the bottom or back of fridge to see if they need cleaning
If the condenser coils/condenser fan are all plugged up they need cleaning and/or the condenser may fail or has failed..

The ones that use an electric heater will have an "energy saver" switch that will turn it off.: God is the reason I give you free advice so God is good!

Dec 24, 2016 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer of my Jenn-Air side-by-side refrigerator is not keeping items, especially ice cream, frozen. The ice maker has also stopped making ice.


Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 - Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan - Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper - Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils - Check to see that the condenser coils don't have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor - Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 - Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 - Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 - Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven't got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn't work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this will help in solving the problem, do take care......

Jun 09, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge no longer stays cold enough. Compressor will come on for a short time but not long enough to get fridge to proper temp. Compressor seems rather hot to the touch. Fan is working and coils are clean....


Hello,


Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this helpout in solving the problem

Aug 15, 2010 | Frigidaire FRS-26DR7D Side by Side...

1 Answer

FRIDGE IS NOT COOLING


hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.


Good luck.....

Aug 14, 2010 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

My kenmore side by side is not cooling. Everything in the fridge portion seems to be about 50 degrees. After reading we pulled the fridge out from the wall and unplugged it. Something had fallen behind...


Hello,
Not cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Good luck.....

Jul 28, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

MY FREEZE DOES NOT FREEZ BUT IS COOLD DOES IT NEEDS GAS


When the compressor is running, two fans should be running. One inside the freezer compartment that moves air over the evaporator coils. The other is under/behind the fridge that cools the condenser coils.

If the fan on the condenser coil (the one under/behind the fridge) stops working, the system cannot dissipate the heat from those coils, and thus cannot sufficiently cool the inside of either the freezer nor fresh food compartment.

On mine, when the condenser fan failed, I noticed right away. The front face of the wall separating the compartments became very hot. Extremely hot.

Apparently the refrigeration system is designed so that waste heat keeps condensation from forming where the magnetic gaskets on the door need to seal. When the condenser fan failed, there was too much waste heat (because no heat was being dissipated from the condenser coils by the fan), thus making that gasket-sealing area very hot.

If it is your condenser coil fan, you can relieve the problem temporarily by removing the bottom back panel from the fridge and aiming a box fan (a regular room or window fan) at the condenser coils. This will circulate air over the coils, thus removing heat from the coils.


Jul 29, 2009 | GE GSH25JFR Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

I have an Amana bottom freezer fridge model ARB2517CSR the freezer stopped working I cleaned the coils and the fan was working and the fridge was making a buzzing sound. The sound stopped, so did the...


If the coils were really dirty, the compressor is probably just overheated. Let it cool down overnight then try again. If it still won't stay running it needs serviced. Could be the start relay or internal overload/overheat sensor in the compressor. If the coils were really dirty and it was used like this for a long time, the compressor could be damaged. It is almost never worth replacing a compressor in a home refrigerator.

Jul 03, 2008 | Stainless Cruise 49 Marine Refridgerator -...

2 Answers

Samsung Fridge Freezer (Freezer on top)Model SR-52NXA wont cool


Depends a bit on whether the compressor really is running, or if it's just humming because it's got power on the run coil, but not on the start coil.

Have a careful listen to the compressor. If it's making the trilling or gurgling sounds that go with a working compressor, then your problem is probably one of lost gas. Fixing this is not a do-it-yourself job.

If the compressor sounds like it's stalled, the problem may lie with the starter. Replacements are usually cheap enough for it to be worth fitting a new one just to see if it works.

A.

Feb 28, 2008 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Warm to Hot molding that seals the doors


Either the fan motor has gone bad or the coils under the fridge are too dirty. Both will cause a no cool situation and cause this area to become too hot. Part of the coil runs thru the cabinet in this area to prevent sweating. This is a good indication of dirty coils or a bad/weak fan motor. If your fan was noisy I would replace it before it goes out completely. This excessive heat will lead to premature compressor failure.

Nov 11, 2007 | Samsung RS2630SH Side by Side Refrigerator

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