Question about Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I tried to replace my
Your "R" terminal is basically your "hot" and your "C" terminal is basically your "neutral" to simplify explanation. The Furnace supplies the "R" power to the thermostat and then depending on what wire the thermostat sends the power back on determines what the system does. The thermostat terminals are as follows "G" is fan, "W" or "aux" is elect heat, "Y" tells the outdoor unit to run, "O" or "B" tells the outdoor unit whether it is heating or cooling, and "E" is emergency heat. "G" should connect from the t-stat directly to the furnace and go no further. "W" or "aux" AND "E" should both connect to your "W" or "W1" terminal in the furnace, there should also be a "W" connection to the heat pump ( this allows the H/P to turn on the elect heat when the unit defrosts) "Y" and "O" or "B" may or may not connect to a terminal in the furnace, usually they just pass through the furnace from the t-stat to the H/P and get wire nutted in the furnace. Now, here is the key. As I mentioned previously "O" or "B", a system will only use one or the other. The entire industry (except for Rheem and Ruud) uses the "O" terminial which has 24v on it when you are cooling and no power when you are heating. Rheem and Ruud use the "B" terminal which is just backwards, 24v in heating and no power in cooling. This is all for a heat pump, If you do not have a heat pump, then disregard the references to "O", "B", "E", and "aux". You will have R-power on red wire, W-heat signal to furnace, G-fan signal to furnace, and "Y" cool signal to outdoor unit.
Posted on Jun 15, 2008
At this point, you have to check to make sure that none of the wire became dislodged in the t-stat. If all the wires are securely connected, check to be sure that you are reassembnling the t-stat correctly.
If all is well at the t-stat, then the next step is to start testing the HVAC components; you will need a voltmeter for this step
Posted on May 05, 2009
Definately get this checked out. Some thing has shorted just enough to let voltage "Feed back" and keep the fan running. Could be capacitor, wires rubbed through each other, etc. A reset is a safety that is used when there is an overcurrent or over pressure situation. No reset set for this situation.
There is always an outside chance that if you touch the unit while standing on wet ground, you may get shocked. I firmly believe that something is allowing power to the fan in a feedback condition so don't let this go as it may cause damage to other parts.
Good Luck and let me know how you make out on this.
Posted on May 11, 2009
SOURCE: Ruud AC fan won't shut off
it sounds like this is an electromechanical system, (no circuit board) verify that you wired the normally open switch at the fan limit control to the low speed fan, to the normally closed on the relay..(series circuit) if either of these are wrong the fan will runn all the time
Posted on Jul 12, 2009
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