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Unit works ok -the treb and bass controls work, it's being used as a monitor. We use a pair of these on stage and this one has only half the vol. compared to he other--thanks for any help--
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which ic burnt? if in the output (amplifier) stage it is probably a transistor (or pair) that went out. you will also need to replace the biasing resistor and diode. if in the input/preamp stage any general purpose 8 pin op-amp will work. Be careful when soldering this unit, it has a multi level circuit board. If this unit is out of warranty (over 2 years old) It will probably be more economical to purchase another unit imo. good luck.
It is not clear what your configuration is. The monitor OUTPUTS are monaural. For recording you should be using the MAINS OUTPUTS and those NEED to use the the MAIN1 IF you are using TRS balanced lines, else if you record with unbalanced cables you need to use the MAIN2 outputs...
Monitor outputs are intended for stage monitors and vary ONLY with the monitor controls at each channel and the monitor sliders and do NOT vary with the sliders.
The output stage has a problem. From your description, I'd guess that the high voltage supply has failed. The low volume and distortion suggests that you are trying to power the speakers from the driver section rather than the outputs. There is a resistor that fails in some of this series. If I remember correctly it is either a 2K or 3K resistor 10 watts in size. If you have no experience with repairs, I'd seek a service shop that is familiar with these units. The part runs between $5-$10.
Make sure the three position slide switch is set correctly for the stereo usage, that is NOT the bridged OR the Mon mode.
MAKE SURE the pan pots are set to middle as they control the spit of the audio to the two channels.
This is a class "D" amplifier (switching) and there really isn't any fuse for a single channel.
MAKE SURE your speakon connections are good by swapping your speaker cables.
I repaired my unit and had to do that without schematics... Behringer will not give them out. Mine had a severe arc-over on one side power amp taking out about ten transistors and diodes and one swithcing regulator chip. Had to cut out the "cancer" of the burned board.
This unit uses a complementary output stage that is made up of one transistor on one side and a pair in parallel on the other. This drives the inductor/capacitor filter... I think the switching frequency is between 100KHz and 1 MHz as I recall. All those transistors were gonzo. It also fried the main power switching transistors in the power supply, several smaller transistors, diodes, and the switching regulator chip.
Also two 10 ohm power resistors were fried. They soft start this unit by charging the main caps via two resistors that limit the inrush current.
A small switching supply has to come up first before the main supply which sends the DC to the amp section.
The clip led flashes when a peak value reached the amplifier and it is no way combined with cables or jacks quality (by the condition that all the connection are not in loosing state). So there is no need to change cables or jacks if their contacts are OK. Maybe the signal you are hearing from one speaker has more peaks so the peak led flashes. Here are some tests you can try: Change the channels. Use the monitor A in the place you were using monitor B and vice versa. Did the peak led flashes at the same monitor? Change the signal input, if it's possible use a mono recording or enable the mono switch at the mixer, so that make sure that both of the monitors are driven by the same signal.
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Thanks and regards Please kindly rate this solution Stelios
Clipping occurs when an amplifier is pushed to create a signal with more power than its power supply can produce. The red light flashing is warning you that your are overdriving the amplifier located in your speaker cabinets. This can cause damage to your amplifier and or your speakers. You should not allow the volume level to exceed clipping. For more information on clipping CLICK HERE Take Care!
punk and metal tones (late 80s): treb-7 mid-6-7 bass 6-8, presence 6-10, gain/distortion all the way up. classic rock just turn down the gain/distortion to 6-7. bridge pickup
metal mid 90s & up: treb 6-7, mids 3-5, bass 7-9, gain all the way up, presence (which is a mid and treble boost) 4-6. bridge pickup
blues SRV: treb 6, mid 6, bass 7.5, presence 8, gain 5, reverb (if you got it). use your neck pick up
of course this is subjective and depends on the guitar, cable quality, etc. it looks like a small speaker with a low watt output. that little speaker in there is going to be hard to articulate any tones. more than likely it will have a harsh bit to it cause the value of the pots and the logarythm you hear. reduce treble as needed to smooth out the harsh, keep the mids up.
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