Question about Refrigerators
Amana model TM16SPG-L
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the evap fan, fan by compressor and the compressor should all be running. if they are then more than likely a bad compressor, so junk it
Posted on Oct 31, 2007
HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.
Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.
The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.
Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.
Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.
This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device,thermostat and main circuity board.
Posted on Sep 07, 2009
SOURCE: I have a Amana model
Fan will run periodically only the defrost timer controls it.It will run based on the timer settings and flow the cold air and stops.If it runs continuously the fridge will freeze.
This problem could occur due to various reason.First you have to resolve for the cause of the issue.
1)First Check the back wall or floor of the freezer section for frost.The Freezer(evaporator) fan is running?.This fan problem is very hard to detect.The DC motor for the fan wears out the RPM's are effected.It gives the illusion that it is running fine,but it don't have enough force to supply air circulation for both the freezer and the refrigerator See weather the condenser coil for blockage from dust and the condenser fan is running.
2)If you have frost in the freezer there is a problem with the defrost system and the freezer will start to warm eventually as well as the fresh food section.Defrost system consist of:
d)Adaptive defrost control.
Any one of this part may be defective.So we have to replace or repair accordingly.
* Defrost timer:
Try turning the screw with screw driver in clock wise direction or anticlockwise direction and wait for 35 min to check Defrost timer has any problem.
Solution for If you have frost in the freezer and make the fridge work:
You could defrost the freezer by disconnecting the power to the refrigerator and letting it sit for at least 24 hours with both Doors
wide open to allow the frost to melt completely but it will build up again in 1-2 weeks and start the warming up again.
* Heater and defrost thermostat is located behind the back wall of the freezer section.This only controls the Heat.After the Defrost timer stops it makes the system warm.Defrost thermostat could be defective.
3)Test the temperature control
With the ohm meter you can test it.If it does not show any reading this is the defective one you have to replace this soon.
4)Check for a clogged drain tube if it is clogged remove the clog.
5)Check the temperature setting.
Set it to max and min and check for any changes you can see in the system.
6)The the freezer vents cold air to the refrigerator.Occasionally the vent can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. Locate the vent and clear it. To remove ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using the high setting may cause damage to the components or interior of the refrigerator.
7)Test the evaporator fan.The evaporator fan circulates air over the refrigeration coils. The coils absorb heat and the chilled air is then circulated. If the fan does not operate, the freezer will not cool properly. The fan motor may have failed, but check first that something is not simply blocking the fan blade.
For time being Solution:Switch off your Refrigerator for 4-8 hours and melt the "snow" build-up in the freezer section.Use hair dryer to melt it quickly.Now switch on the system and see the cooling effect.It will be increased.The snow" build-up in the freezer section will not allow the cool air to flow into the Refrigerator.There will be valve in the backside through which cool air flows.
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Posted on Sep 06, 2010
This complaint is usually the result of a defrost problem. The first thing to check in this case is the freezer area. Look at the back panel inside the freezer. If you notice frost covering the back panel, you have defrost problem.If the coils in the freezer section get clogged with frost, it will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air. Kindly check the defrost timer, thermostat and heater.You can locate the defrost timer, but it can be tricky, since they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge. In the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw-like wheel, in the middle of the defrost timer, with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. Now the fridge is in defrost mode. If the defrost heater comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. If you have no power to the heater, you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the heater will come on; join the two wires together, to bypass the thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy or ticking, replace it.
Hope it helps.
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Posted on Apr 25, 2011
If you have high humidity or the door gets opened a lot, the evaporator coil may need a good defrosting. There are defrosting devices in the unit like the timer, heating coils, thermostats that could be bad. There should also be a small fan in the freezer that transfers the air to the refrigerator section. If that's not spinning only the freezer will work.
If you find the fan and it's working you can do a thorough manual defrost by removing the food, unplugging the unit and letting it set for a day with the doors wide open. Have some big towels handy :)
After a day, plug it in and see what it does (don't add food, yet). If it cools down then you will know that the compressor is still good and it's worthwhile to fix.
Easy fixes: Timer and fan.
Moderate fix (cheap part - more labor) - Defrost thermosat
Pain in the **** fix: Defrost heaters.
Posted on May 22, 2011
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