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Riding mower won't move forward or reverse

I was removing a back wheel to fix a flat. It was rusted on so I had to use a sledge hammer to remove the wheel (With the parking brake on). After I fixed the flat I attempted to drive the mower and it wouldn't move. Now, when I push the mower it moves freely as if it were in neutral, whereas before it wouldn't. Could I have broke the axle by using the sledge hammer? Sheared an axle key? Moved the release lever? (If so I cant find its location) Please help! Thanks!

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  • 352 Answers

WHAT MAKE AND MODEL MOWER? YES...YOU EASILY COULD HAVE BROKEN THE AXLE!
SEE IF EACH WHEEL WILL SPIN INDEPENDENTLY OF ONE ANOTHER IN BOTH DIRECTIONS. ALSO, SOME MOWERS HAVE A ENGAGE/DISENGAGE TRANS LEVER (USUALLY PULLS IN AND OUT AND LOCKS WITH A CLEVIS PIN RETAINER)

Posted on Jul 26, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Hydrostatic mower goes in reverse but not forward. Only 73 hrs on it!

On my hydrostatic there is an adjustment on the forward/back lever which can be made to run all reverse or all forward. Normal setting gives both of course. Look at that adjustment. Maybe something let go.

Posted on Oct 14, 2008

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SOURCE: wont move forward or reverse-- transmission??

Does it have gears or a hydrostatic (automatic) transmission?

If it's a gear model, sounds like a loose drive belt.

If it's hydrostatic, it could be a belt problem or a problem inside the transmission. If it's a tranmission problem, this is not good. Many of the transmissions on riding lawn mowers are not serviceable - they are just replaced.

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Sears ZT 7000 mower, engine runs, mower will not move

Same problem. The drive belt pulley tensioner spring broke. Replaced and everything worked great.

Posted on Apr 05, 2010

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SOURCE: MTD riding mower does not move forward or reverse.

this is a belt driven transmission. from the engine driven pulley going aft towards the xmission differential there is another smaller variable speed pulley, there is a long belt between these two, from the variable speed pulley there is a larger xmission pulley that sits kitty-corner to it with a belt between these two. This larger "xmission pulley" is what drives the differential and depending upon which gear you have selected, makes it go forward or reverse. Check that both belts between pulleys are on, check that pulley's hardware is completely secured (nuts tightened down) The heads of these pulley's are splined to align to the shaft(s) and if they aren't tight, they will just spin and not engage the transmission. If your battery is under the seat, remove it and you should be able to see and access the aft pulleys. If both belts are on and engaging the pulley's and the shaft is turning on the transmission pulley than you have transmission differential failure. Bet it's the belt off or pulley head loose. Good luck, hope this helps

Posted on Apr 14, 2010

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: I have a cub cadet model 1420 with hydrostatic

i had exmark hydros i was told to never wash them, the water does more damage than good. have you checked or changed your hydostatic oil and filter latley? if you have, when doing that you have to be very careful not to get any foriegn objects in the oil resevoir, dirt, grass clipings, anything will ruin the hydro pump.

Posted on Sep 28, 2010

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1 Answer

Why doesn't it move forward or in reverse?


Many tractors and mowers have a key way on the axle and axle bore on the wheel hub.. Did you remove the tire and wheel from the mower axle? ..if you did most likely the drive axle key fell out of its slot on the drive axle and when you replaced the wheel it has no way to drive the wheels..try this start the mower put it in gear and try to move..have someone watch the end of the axle at the wheel
..if the key is missing the axle will be turning..but not the wheel..any good hardware store should carry them. just measure the depth and width of the key..something like 1/4,3/8 etc...good luck..

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1 Answer

Parking brake stuck engaged


how long since you serviced the rear parking brake assembly

they do require periodic maintenance and lubrication

it could be 1 of 2 problems or both

1/ the parking brake cable for that wheel has seized from non use ( water will seep into the cable sleeving over time and cause rust to form, rust welding the cable to the inner metal sleeve )

2/ the parking brake assembly itself has seized in the wheel holding position .



the only true way to free up the assembly is to crawl under your vehicle , use a small length of a 2 x 4 and with a 5 pound sledge hammer , whack hard on the backing plate until the parking brake assembly releases

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what kind of snapper... RER ( rear engine rider ) tractor style, model number will help greatly here because snapper has made mowers since the dawn of time !!!

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Removed lugnuts but a tire will not come off the vehicle . The parking break is off, but the rear wheel will not spin. I turned the ignition on and the parking break light was not on. I lifted the parking...


rear wheels on saturn's I believe have drum brakes - these can tend to seize up when worn through and the brake shoe rivets start to cut into the wheel housing or if not worn out, just be tight enough to keep wheel from spinning freely. Also the light on parking brake is a simple switch attached to the lever and is not reliable. I've had parking brake cables rust up and seize which can be a pain - generally requires a replacement cable and often the connecting yoke and rods.

As for the wheel not coming off - that's unrelated to the brakes - the brakes act on the actual wheel hub to which the lugs attach the wheel and tire. Many times it is problem of rust and dirt caked up between the wheel and the hub. I'd suggest rapping the wheel with a hammer, go all around the perimeter several times on the back side - use a piece of wood between hammer and wheel to protect the wheel from getting dented - the hammer "shocks" usually will vibrate thru the steel or alloy to loosen caked up dirt and rust. Can't think of much more you can do - maybe others have a suggestion. worst case might be to bring it to a tire shop and pay them $10-$20 to get it off - if it is just for inspection they can put it right back on for you. If you are looking to swap it out with another tire/wheel, then they will charge more since they often ding you for balancing it (which is a good idea regardless).

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Trying to get brake drum off right wheel klf 300 kawasaki 1986


Sounds like a rust problem! Get a lump hammer or 8# sledge hammer and tap the drum all around on the outside of the drum. Try to rock the drum foreward and back (turn it) when you take a break from beating it with the hammer. When you get it off, completely replace both brake systems on that axle. That includes the drums and shoes!

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Sound its rusted to axle. After remove e-clip from axle use WD-40 on both sides of hub. There small key goes in hub to keep wheel from turning on axle. The WD-40 should work. I've use a hammer on sides of hub not the tire. There spilt bushing on inside of hub, you need break loose. Back and forth works most of time.

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1 Answer

The rear passenger wheel wont turn. it is locked up. It sat for about three months and when we started it up and tried to move it the wheel was locked up. Any ideas?


Hi,
If you have access to a jack, and some kind of blocking (for safety), remove the wheel,and with a hammer, rap firmly around the break drum. Be careful not to strike the studs that hold the wheel on. Maybe want to screw the lug nuts back on a way so as not to damage the stud threads in case you hit them with the hammer.
By sitting the brakes have gotten "frozen" sort of rusted to the drum. The rapping of the hammer usually frees up the brake shoes.
Make sure the parking brake cable is not rusted tight also.
Wayne

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1 Answer

I cannot seem to be able to remove the mower blade pulley wheel. I am replacing a damaged mower deck with a new one and need to remove the blade components from the old deck. The nut holding the pulley...


With the blade on and tight, block the blade with a piece of wood or someother means of securing it so it will not turn when you try to remove the nut. I then use a fifteen inch breaker bar and "massage" the bar with a four pound sledge hammer. A few moderate taps and it starts to loosen.

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