Question about LG WM1814CW Front Load Washer

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Burning Rubber Smell from LG washer

The inner tub on the washer seems to be out of balance and causing a the door seal to burn during spin cycle. Replaced hall sensor a couple of months ago. The whole machine is NOT shaking, only the inner tub. Is there a bearing that can wear out?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: LG WD-8050FH LOUD noice when spinning & 'funny' burning smell!!

I had the same symptoms and almost dismantled the whole machine to locate the root of the cause. The issue was one of the 3 arms of the spider (like a 3 spoked wheel that connects to the rear of the drum and holds it in place and provides the drive shaft to through to the motor at the rear), had snapped after weakening from corrosion due to undissolved washing powder building up in the grooves.
To prevent this, do a hot wash every few weeks to dissolve the powder, don't think your saving the environment by using only cold washes, this should be in every washing machine manual to save the environment from waste from un-economically repairable appliances.
The burning smell was the unbalanced drum leaning heavily on the rubber shroud on the front between the drum and the outer casing. The replacement spider part was only about AU$60-80.

To check if this is the problem you may be able to tell by opening the door, and reaching in from the front with your palm up about a hand distance till you go past the rubber shroud and just touch the stainless steel drum. Grip it gently with your four fingers and pull towards the front (to you) about 1cm or two, with about as much force you would need to open the machine's door. Rotate the drum approx one third of a rotation and repeat, do this 3 times and you should feel one point give more than the others.
If no luck try again in sixths of a rotation, you can gauge the distance by the 3 plastic agitators attached on the inside wall of the drum.

Note: get a price on labour first to replace the spider, as this will be probably more than half way to a new machine, and then the cost of the part, and the call-out fee if you can't get it into a service centre.

What's the point of having a long lasting stainless steel drum when the key part that connects the drum to the motor is a weak cast iron / alloy part.
Ask your local service person what units have quality parts before buying a new machine.

ps: the loud noise is probably the cracked arm rubbing or the unbalanced drum hitting the sides and making the machine jump.

Hope this all helps!

Posted on Apr 06, 2010

  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: noisey during spin

yes you are right noise during spin cycle is due to faulty bearing. If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2
It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.


Posted on May 07, 2009

SOURCE: Wm 2487H. My machine is off balance and shake the

Starting in November 2008--LG introduced "square door" model washers.
These washers will (unlike round door models) perform very well on wood floors.
If the WM2487 washer is on a wood floor--even a tiled wood floor--it will be near impossible to get smooth spin performance.
Some homeowners have had success by adding two layers of 3/4 inch wood under the washer AND dryer.
The following steps were taken:
1) Remove washer & dryer
2) Cut & remove any floor covering (bare wood)
3) Locate floor joists with a stud-finder & mark locations at the edge of the flooring--allows finding the joist locations after 3/4 sheet is laid to floor.
4) Add wood glue to floor
5) Place 3/4 inch wood sheet to floor & drive screws thru wood into joists (as many scews as deemed necessary to fully & completely compress wood sheet to existing floor
6) Add wood glue to 1st wood sheet
7) Place 2nd 3/4 inch wood sheet on top of 1st wood layer and drive screws into floor joists.
8) Add molding if desired
9) Re-install washer & dryer and level.
10) Add one heavy towel into washer tub & close door ( this will mimick an off-center load)
11) Press power "on" button
12) Press "Spin Speed" button & select high speed spin option
13) Press "Start" button
14) When * 9 minutes remaining * is displayed--use the flat wrenchette that comes with every LG washer to "tweak" the adjustment of the front leveling legs. This will allow for "fine tuning" adjustment of the front leveling leg(s) to eliminate vibration / noise during the spin cycle. The rear leveling legs DO NOT need further adjustment.
NOTE: Those with pedestals--check the front leveling legs on the washer and on the pedestals (front only) during spin.

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: VERY LOUD GRINDING NOISE LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer

Get a new washer. Perhaps another brand.

The fix for me was to get a new washer. Had same issue with loud spin cycle. Tried researching while wife was continuing use of washer. Then the LE message appeared.

Took back apart and found that water had leaked and caused a boat load of damage. Bearings shot, seal leaks, drum leaks, Stator damaged. Same issue as 'jammy64' stated.

Cost to repair wasn't worth it. Going to get an
Electrolux model.

9605e52.jpg
cd0a44d.jpg
7a00dcc.jpg

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: I was washing a bathroom

I wonder if maybe a damper came loose and cause this penom? I have service manuals and more here:
LG front loading washer

Posted on Oct 24, 2010

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Get a new washer. Perhaps another brand.

The fix for me was to get a new washer. Had same issue with loud spin cycle. Tried researching while wife was continuing use of washer. Then the LE message appeared.

Took back apart and found that water had leaked and caused a boat load of damage. Bearings shot, seal leaks, drum leaks, Stator damaged. Same issue as 'jammy64' stated.

Cost to repair wasn't worth it. Going to get an
Electrolux model.

9605e52.jpg
cd0a44d.jpg
7a00dcc.jpg

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