Question about GE GSD3200J Dishwasher
Two weeks ago I started my dishwasher while is was in wash mode. My husband went to take a shower so I unlocked the door to stop the dishwasher until he finished his shower. Well I forgot to restart the dishwasher. The next day I forgot that I had started the washer the night before and it was in the middle of wash mode so I put the detergent in both places on the door and restarted the dishwasher in the Hot start mode. Well when it went into wash mode it flooded my floor with water and soap. So I went in and cleaned the water out of the washer so no more water would come out. Now my problem is when I start the washer in Hot Start it is making a strange noise and the noise gets a lot louder when it goes into wash mode. But after it is in wash mode for part of the way the noise goes away. Do you know what could cause this? Tks Lynn
Try re-setting it. unplug power. visually see if d/w looks clean. re-connect and run an empty short cycle ensuring door properly closed. good luck
Posted on Jul 26, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Loud Humming Noise
You're describing vague, conflicting information. At first glance, I would think you have something stuck in the pump. But then it would be there in the rinse-only cycle also.
The anti-bacterial mode heats the water up to about 180F. This kills bacteria, and it also speeds up the action of the detergent. It could be dissolving whatever is in there.
The humming noise wasn't there in the rinse mode... The heater isn't on in the rinse mode - everything else is. But I've NEVER heard a heating element hum.
Cleaning the filter:
The filter is in the back in the bottom right. It's cover is held on by two 1/4 in screws. Under that is a large grate, and I sometimes find stuff clogging the screen (underwater, toward the center of the machine.) I'd start by looking there.
Posted on Mar 24, 2008
i have same dishwasher with same problem. it is a design problem. i will never ever buy GE again. only way to solve this problem is, DO NOT load any dishes at left front side of bottom rack so bottom spray can shoot water in that stupid designed detergent cup. I have service tec came here 3 times and this idiot ******* blamed everything in my new house but this junk and expensive dishwasher. i just wrote a letter to GE headquarters adress is AP 6, Room 129 Louisville, KY 40225
Posted on Mar 10, 2009
SOURCE: GE Nautilus dishwasher wont run
This is a typical GE problem which I have seen many times...When a DW sets for a while not being used...the motor often freezes up....Take the front (lower panel off....find the motor assembly...(with the DW unplugged!!...very important)reach in with you hand or a screw driver...preferably your hand...at the back of the motor...there should be a impeller blade...you should be able to reach in with a finger and pull it down..it may be resistant so find a way to hold it in place as you reach up to the next impller blade and pull down further...finally it will all of a sudden free up....after which you plug it back in and start it up...I am also including a step by step (no drain problem check list as you may run into an issue like this if it has not been operated for a while ....notice article # 5).
1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.
If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.
Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.
2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.
Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.
4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.
Replace the motor if defective.
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).
I hope this helps...it is always useful to include the Model #...more specific instructions can then be provided
Good Luck and good day.....please rate my effort...the Fang
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
Hi you probably have something in the sump drain assembly (this is a common problem with Nautilus DW's) there's a screen on the right side of
the spray arm with 2 screws remove them and take screen off use your
fingers to probe the cavity be careful it could be glass.
If it does not correct the problem
!.You may have an electric pump . and it could be pump without water . so i would say a bad pump....but since you say everything is draining well...then I doubt the later...HOWEVER...you did say it ran forever...which is absolutely typical of something in the sump...drain area...which will make the drain cycle run because it believes something to be in the drain.....there is also a check valve...that the drain hose attaches to...(it comes right off of the motor assembly) when you take the hose off there is a check valve that screws into the hose or the motor assembly...(it could have debris in the hose that is not being drained all the way out and it is finding it's way back to the check valve) ...shop-vac the drain line...or the valve is screwed into the motor assembly where the hose disconnects...and there may be something stuck in the valve...unscrew it and check that the valve is in good shape...and free of debris......reassemble...and run through cycle....if you need any of these parts...or any specific instructions on replacement of these parts...here is a great site...Quality for less and quick delivery.
I hope this helps...I believe it will....Good luck and good day....thank you for your rating my effort....The Fang.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
SOURCE: UNDISSOLVED SOAP RESIDUE AND
I have the same dishwasher and kept having soap still in the dispenser at the end of the wash. Someone mentioned this, but what was happening is that the soap dispenser lid was blocked from fully opening by the top rack. You also typically have large pans in this area, so the water spray is blocked from getting under the half open lid well. I started opening the dishwasher after I heard the dispenser latch release, so the lid could fully open. After that, I had no problem with soap still in the dispenser. I started setting a timer to open and shut the dishwasher door about 20 minutes into the wash process (after the latch had released for the 2nd wash cycle), so the soap dispenser lid would be fully open. This was a pain, but it worked. The other thing to be careful of with this dishwasher is to ensure you have pushed the top rack in tight before closing the door. Look at the water connection for the top "spinner" and you will see how the plastic pipe fits up to the supply. If you don't have the rack pushed in tight, you get leakage around the connection and don't get good water spray from the top spinner arms. This can definitely affect the quality of the wash. You mentioned the dispenser lid is open when the cycle is complete, but that is because once you open the door it can fully open.
Posted on Jun 30, 2009
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