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Kawasaki won't shift gears, It's like it doesn't recognize it's in neutral. Battery has been charged and sparks can't get it started.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sometimes when the battery keeps going dead like that, a component may be creating a current draw. you can do a simple current draw test with a fluke meter by setting the meter to read amps, make sure the test leads are in the proper portals on the fluke for an amp test, and disconnect one of the battery cables and connect the test leads in-line with the battery and cable. It would help to know you have a good fuse inside the fluke. They are easy to blow, and whatever you do, DO NOT try to start the unit with the meter hooked up for the amp draw test. That is how fuses are blown. With the key off, check for any amp draw. If there is, you can start unplugging components until the draw goes away. If there was no draw to begin with, you may have a stator coil (or alternantor, whichever it has) that is weak and can't keep up.
Posted on Jun 11, 2009
Using a lighter viscosity engine oil can make all the difference. Try something on the order of a 5W-30 for ambient temperatures of 60F or below. Of course, it could also be that your starter solenoid is in the early stages of failure. You can easily check it by using a large screwdriver to bridge the two large cable connections on the top of the solenoid. If the starter spins when you do this, then the solenoid is bad.
Posted on Dec 07, 2009
SOURCE: I've got a 1996 Kawasaki
The bike has a bent shift fork. The engine must come out then gets flipped upside down to remove the bottom half of the crankcase. This allows access to the gears and shift forks. The repair is not recommended for the home mechanic. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
Posted on Jul 14, 2011
Even if the relay under the seat makes a click when you turn the key, it can still be bad. Try jumping the hot leads and see if it cranks.
Posted on Dec 13, 2011
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