Realistic sa 1000a

Very often when left for a long time the Electrolytic Capacitors in the power supply section dry up and cause it to get stuck in standby. The only cure is to replace all the big capacitors in the power supply section.

Mouser Electronics,

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Leaded/_/N-75hqw?P=1z0wrjfZ1z0x1d4Z1z0z7l5

Scroll down.

Regards,
joecoolvette

To me from the indications given it looks like a Power Supply problem.
At first LED lights light, and fans spin.
Then you plug a PCI Express card in, and NO fans spin.

PCI Express graphics card took all the power there was available.

[ A PCI Express x16 slot can deliver Up To 75 Watts ]

1) If ALL of the LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts of power.
Just depends on what Processor it is.

You don't have enough power to turn the Processor on.
Fans were spinning, you plugged a graphics card in, fans do not spin now.

Power Supply has a weak voltage power rail.
(There are three; 3.3 Volt, 5 Volt, and 12 Volt)

HOWEVER, the method is to diagnose; not parts changing.
Do you have a multimeter to test the three voltage power rails?
I can guide you. An economical multimeter ranges about $5 to $12 around here.

No?
How about a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; that you could borrow from a working computer, for a test unit?

How could a Power Supply go bad from just sitting?
There are Electrolytic Capacitors inside the Power Supply. These have a chemical paste inside. Electrolytic Paste. The paste breaks down over time. Especially if the Power Supply is not plugged into power.
(When an SMPS (Power Supply) is plugged into power, there is a constant 5 Volts present. (5 Volts DC) This is the 5 Volt Standby power )

[The Electrolytic Capacitors used are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors ]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

Click on the second photo down on the right. The Bottom example is a Radial design. The example is actually a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor.


Just so I do not miss anything in the diagnoses, I would also like you to look CLOSE at the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard, too,

http://capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

Long 'story', I'll try to make it short;
General Electrolytic Capacitor construction,

1) Case: The outside case is an aluminum cylindrical shell.
Think of a 'Coca-Cola' can with the top and bottom open.

2) The top 'lid' is a thin aluminum flat disk.
It has either a lK or X shape cut into the flat disk, partway
It is sealed around it's outer edge to the Case.
This is the Vent Cover.

3) The bottom 'lid' is a synthetic rubber flat disk.
It is called the Bung.

4) Inside are three strips. (There are many layers of these strips in actuality)

A) One strip is metal, and is the Conducting Strip.
It has the Positive lead connected to it. (Lead; Think stiff wire)

B) One strip is also metal, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it. It is the Non-Conducting strip, and the Negative lead connects to it.

C) The last strip is paper-like, and soaked with Electrolytic Paste.
The Electrolytic Paste soaked strip is laid in-between the two metal strips, and all three are rolled up tightly.
The two leads (Positive and Negative) poke down through the Bung.

(Again, there are several layers of this construction, inside the capacitor's case)

When an Electrolytic capacitor goes bad, the Electrolytic paste inside chemically breaks down. It either dries up, or turns into a gas.
Hydrogen Gas.
The gas expands inside the Case, and pushes against the top seal, (Vent Cover), and bottom seal. (Bung)

The X or lK shape etched partway into the Vent Cover pops open, and/or one side of the synthetic rubber Bung pushes down.
The gas begins pushing Electrolytic paste out.

So much paste loss, and the capacitor can operate at a weakened state.
Too much paste loos, and the capacitor fails.
This is why it can work sometimes, then seem to fail all at once.

This applies to Electrolytic capacitors on the motherboard, and in the Power Supply.

[NOT an invite to open the Power Supply, and attempt a repair!
This = No.
Replace ]

The first thing to do when diagnosing a desktop computer problem, is make SURE it is receiving power, and the correct amount of voltage.

THEN the diagnosis can be continued on.
A Power Supply with a weak voltage power rail, cam emulate all sorts of seemingly software problems.

http://www.fic.com.tw/product/motherboard/AMD/K8MC51G.aspx

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

Firstly check all valves are glowing, if they all glowing, check speaker cone isn't blown

Ikaw ay pakikipag-usap tungkol sa vertical na problema lenearity ko Ipinagpapalagay at i-post ito solusyon.Lamang palitan ang lahat ng mga electrolytic capacitors sa vertical seksyon ng circuit output.May 4 o 5 ng mga ito.Palitan ang lahat sa isang pagkakataon

Then I suggest replace them.

I do not know what C7 capacitor is, nor the H7 designation you stated.
C7 would suggest Capacitor number 7, to me.
H7 would suggest a different electronic component.

If it is just capacitor replacement, and you have the tools, knowledge, and access to the capacitors, I would say perform the repair.

Electrolytic Capacitors are the weakest link of an electronic component.
They are designed to be.

Computer engineers, and designers know this. They know that as time goes on, an electrolytic capacitor will break down. The chemical composition inside breaks down. (Electrolytic Paste)

This is why they use capacitors that are rated at twice the capability, of what is needed. As the capacitor breaks down to 50 percent good, it is still 100 percent good of what is needed.

Capacitors used on a motherboard, (Electrolytic or solid Polymer capacitors), are used as Filters, and Voltage Regulators.

The one's used as voltage regulators, are in the Motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit,

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/616

Part of what the motherboard voltage regulator circuit does, is to regulate voltage for the Processor.

The Processor MUST have a steady, 'clean' supply of voltage, AND it must be within a VERY tight tolerance range.
Too much, or too little, and the Processor turns off. (BIOS turns it off)

Also, these particular capacitors are in a Series circuit. This means that if even ONE goes bad, the entire circuit is down.

A) http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/How-to-Identify-Japanese-Electrolytic-Capacitors/595

B) http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

C) http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqt/

{ Passive Components > Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors }

(They are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors, that are used on an Intel D865GBF motherboard.

Use the information in A) above, to find the capacitor manufacturer's ratings. Voltage and Capacitance. {Microfarad}
You can match up the diameter, and length, by measuring the capacitor)

D) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4

" A picture is worth a thousand words"

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Generally this means a bad Power Supply, or bad Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard.

I wish I knew what exact eMachines model number, you were referring to.
Because I do not, this solution will be generic.

Looking at the back of the computer tower where the power cord plugs in, this is the Power Supply.
(Rectangular in shape metal case, has it's own fan)

eMachines are a budget computer. Designed to save the consumer money, while trying to provide a medium design of personal computer.

However, in saving the consumer money, there are less than quality parts used.
The Power Supply is one of them.

(IF I had the model number from the back of the computer tower, next to the Windows product key, or up on the side of the tower, I could give you exact Power Supply replacement options, and guide you in replacing)

One of the main electronic components that break down in a Power Supply, are Electrolytic Capacitors.
They are the 'weakest link'.

The type of Power Supply used in a personal computer is an SMPS.
Switched-Mode Power Supply,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

Click on the photo to the upper right.
The two round blue circles are Electrolytic Capacitors. This is a top view. The blue circle is the top edge of a plastic sleeve, which goes around the capacitor's body.

The letter E also points out more Electrolytic Capacitors.
Top view.
(The ones in B are Input Stage capacitors. They filter the incoming AC electricity. The ones marked by the letter E are Output Stage capacitors. They filter the outgoing DC electricity )

This is a side view of an Electrolytic Capacitor. (Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor, to be more exact),

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Capacitors_electrolytic.jpg

The one at the bottom with the light blue sleeve, and 160V, and 10uf, on it. It is a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor)

This is not an invite to replace these components. The preferred method is to replace the Power Supply.
(A good capacitor can hold a charge for weeks, months, sometimes over a year. The charge can be released to YOU, if the capacitors are not Properly discharged first)

Bad Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard. (Again, these are also Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors )

http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

Part of what Electrolytic Capacitors do on the motherboard, (In referring to the motherboard's capacitors in your eMachines), is to regulate voltage.
This is the Motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit.

Part of what the MVRC does, is to regulate voltage for the Processor.
The Processor MUST have a steady, clean, supply of voltage, and it MUST be within the voltage range for the Processor.

Can't be too much, or too little.

The capacitors that make up the part of the motherboard voltage regulator circuit, that handles voltage for the Processor, are in a Series circuit. Just like Christmas tree lights. If one capacitor goes bad, none of the rest will work.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/616

A short video (Not made by me) showing what happens when Electrolytic Capacitors are bad on the motherboard. (These 'caps' also are in the motherboard voltage regulator circuit, that handles the voltage for the Processor),

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KN6_-8fYHo0

(Starts at 0:04)

Replacing 'caps',

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaKobAKmYA4&feature=related

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

For the life of me I cannot think where a single lone transistor, would be used on the motherboard of a desktop computer.

Electrolytic Capacitors, Solid Capacitors, (Polymer usually), Choke Coils, Integrated Circuits, Diodes, etc, but not transistors.

I believe your reference is to an Electrolytic Capacitor.
A Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor.

But, the answer is yes in both cases.
Transistor, or Electrolytic Capacitor.

1) http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

2) http://www.capacitorlab.com/replacing-motherboard-capacitors-howto/index.htm

3) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

In link 3 above you can see the difference between an Axial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor, and a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor.

Look at the second photo down on the right.
The Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor has both leads coming out of the bottom.

Basic construction of a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor:

Essentially it is a small aluminum can filled with three strips, and capped off with a flat aluminum disk on top, (Vent Cover), and a flat rubber disk on the bottom. (Bung)

The case is like a Coca-Cola can open at the top, and bottom.
The top is capped off with a flat, thin, aluminum disk that has a K or X etched part way into it.
The bottom is a synthetic rubber flat disk called the Bung.

The first strip is a thin foil metal strip. It is the Conducting Strip.
It has a lead (Wire) attached to it, and this lead is the Positive lead.

The second strip is also metal foil, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it.
It is the Non-Conducting strip.
The Negative lead is attached to it.

The last strip is of a paper-like substance, and is soaked with Electrolytic Paste.

The paper-like strip is placed in-between the two metal foil strips, and all three are rolled up tightly, then inserted down into the aluminum can case.
The two leads, Positive and Negative, are inserted down through the synthetic rubber Bung.

When an Electrolytic Capacitor goes bad, one of two things happen with the Electrolytic Paste.
One it dries up.
or
Two it creates a gas.

The gas created is Hydrogen Gas. The gas expands, and eventually pushes Electrolytic Paste out of the capacitor.

The top vent cover's etched shape, K or X, breaks open, and paste oozes out,
and/or
one side of the rubber Bung disk pushes down, and out, and paste oozes out.

So much paste loss, and the capacitor operates at a weakened state.
Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails.

Capacitors are rated in Voltage, and Capacitance.

How much Voltage is the MAXIMUM they can use, and what the maximum capacitance rating is for them.
Capacitance, for the size of capacitors used on a desktop computers motherboard, are rated in MicroFarads. uf

The Voltage and Microfarad's are marked on the outside plastic sleeve of the capacitor.
It may be plainly stated, (Printed/Stamped), or in a manufacturer's code.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/How-to-Identify-Japanese-Electrolytic-Capacitors/595

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/164

I lay the motherboard upside down on my lap. I then use a clean, well tinned soldering iron, (50 Watt or less), to melt a solder joint on one lead of the capacitor.

I have solder wick ready, and waiting to 'soak' up the solder as soon as it melts.
(Solder Wick = Soldering Braid. A bunch of thin copper wires woven into a braid )
You are just trying to remove as much excess solder as you can.

I prefer Soldering Braid (Solder Wick) over a Desoldering Tool. (Solder S-ucker Tool)

A tip of the soldering braid is laid over the solder joint, (Half a fingernail width), so that the braid covers the entire solder joint.
Then the soldering iron tip is laid on the soldering wick, right above the solder to be removed.
When the solder melts, and the braid soaks it up, the braid is quickly removed.

The small length of braid can only be used so many times. I cut the solder soaked area off after using it one time, and use a fresh area when going to remove some more solder.

You aren't going to remove all of the solder in the solder joint. Just enough so that when the solder joint is heated again, it won't flow back into your way when trying to remove the capacitor.

The thin, tiny copper strips going along the motherboard are Circuit Traces.
If you linger too long with the soldering iron, you can burn a circuit trace, and lift it right off of the motherboard, rendering it useless.

You can also heat the circuit trace area where the solder joint is, too much, and this will cause the circuit trace to Not accept solder anymore. (It is 'burned')
{The copper circuit trace is overheated, and will not 'tin' anymore. If it doesn't accept solder we have a problem, Houston}

You are just trying to heat the solder joint enough to remove some of the solder.

Melt the solder on the other lead, and remove as much excess solder as you can with the soldering wick.

Lay the motherboard turned over on your lap, so the bottom side is facing up and the capacitor leads are facing up.
Hold onto the capacitor with your fingers, and thumb, on the top side of the motherboard.

Use the front of your fingers, and the side of your thumb for a fulcrum, with the tips of your fingers, and thumb applying pressure against the capacitor. (Pressure = Gently prying the capacitor away from the motherboard)

Heat the remaining solder on one lead of the capacitor until it melts, and ease THAT lead out of the motherboard a LITTLE. It will only go so far as the other lead is still soldered in.

Now go to the other lead, and melt the remaining solder. Pull it up, and out of the motherboard a little.
Keep alternating back, and forth until one by one, the leads come up out of the motherboard.

The solder joint area on the circuit trace, where the capacitor lead was removed from, (Essentially a copper ring around a hole in the motherboard) needs to be cleaned, and re-tinned with solder.

I use Isopropyl Alcohol, and a small solder flux, and acid brush, to start cleaning the circuit trace area around the motherboard hole.

[ CAUTION!
Isopropyl Alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE, and burns colorless.
Use in a Well ventilated area with NO sparks or flames present ]

This helps to remove residue. I then carefully brush the circuit trace area around the hole with steel wool.
Follow with a light tinning on this area.

[ Tinning: Solder is applied in a light coat ]

NOTE*
A capacitor has a Positive lead ( + ), and a Negative lead. ( - )
The Negative lead is the one marked on the outside plastic sleeve of the capacitor.

When you remove the bad capacitor, make SURE you know which hole is for the Positive lead.
If you put the leads back into the wrong holes with the new capacitor, the capacitor will explode when you fire the motherboard up. (Turn the computer on)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4

If it is a transistor we are 'talking' about the procedure above still applies. IF you were going to keep the transistor, you would use a Heatsink on it's leads on the Top side of the motherboard, close to the transistor itself.

For additional questions please post in a Comment. (Believe upper right of your page. Our website is undergoing improvement changes)

Regards,
joecoolvette

Chances are you should have checked some components related to that IC,namely an electrolytic capacitor.They tend to leak or short.That IC burned for a reason.

If you can change some of the SMD capacitors especially the very light sandy coloured ones as they have a reputation for being very fragile as well no matter what size the package they come in. Hope this helps.