Question about Heating & Cooling
The drain is blocked and needs a clean out ,look for a drain hole with a pipe to the outside .as for the gas recharge then yes it can be filled by a specialist and not a chancer ,you have to cut a pipe on the motor and solder a connection on the end not a problem for a experianced person
Posted on Jul 25, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Recharge My AC Unit
The system needs to be accessed through what is call a tap valve. After a tap valve is in place a high vacuum should be pulled on the system down to 500 microns to remove air and non condensible gases along with any moisture from the system. Then the charge should be weight into the system according to the name plate with the proper type of refrigerant, generally Refrigerant 22. An alternate method is to charge the system by superheat of the gas returning to the compressor. Ambient temperature determines how high or low the superheat should be.
Posted on Jun 20, 2008
Does water drip out of unit on the roof while running ? If you look under the unit on the roof, you should see one or two little drains sticking down., that may be plugged up. Piece of wire or something and poke in the holes on the sides of those drains to make sure they're clear. Usually there is a plastic/nylon pan on roof unit to catch that moisture, and drain it off. Could be overflow because of the plugged drains, or I have seen the odd one crack but not too much recently, mostly back 5 yrs ago or so they had a run of them.
Posted on Aug 14, 2008
Turn the selector switch to “Cool” and the
thermostat to a low temperature (below room temperature).
The fan runs OK, but the unit does not cool. When the unit
housing is removed, we observe that the compressor does not
run; however, it periodically hums for 15 to 30 seconds.
Possible Causes- Check all of this before buying a new unit, that may not be the solution.
“The voltage could be low – ”
a) Check the voltage between #1 on the
overload switch and the “R” terminal of the
compressor while it is not humming. This
voltage must be 115 volts domestic USA
models or 240 volts export/overseas models.
No less than minus 10% is allowable.
b) Check the voltage from “C” or “R” of the
compressor while it is humming (trying to
start). The latter reading will probably be
lower, but it still must be 103.5 volts
minimum domestic USA or 216 volts
minimum export/overseas models.
If the first reading is above 103.5V domestic USA and
the second is under 103.5V domestic USA, there is
too much voltage drop in the lines - a situation which
must be corrected for the air conditioner to perform
safely and satisfactorily.
2. “A capacitor could be shorted, weak or open.”
Turn the power off.
Caution – There is always a chance that a capacitor is
holding a residual charge, so before touching a
terminal, discharge the capacitor as explained earlier
in this booklet.
Remove capacitors, visually examine them and test
them per instructions given in earlier section on
capacitor testing (See page 9).
If the capacitors test OK, replace them and carefully
reconnect the wires. Be sure the wires are connected
to the right terminals.
3. “Start relay contacts could be open – ” if so equipped.
Turn off all power, then check for continuity with
ohm meter between terminals 1 & 2.
4. “Compressor start winding could be open or
Check compressor windings per instructions. See the
section on the compressors (See page 8).
5. “Compressor could be mechanically stuck.”
This very rarely occurs and when it does, it is usually
after a lengthy shutdown. This should be considered
only after all the above possible causes have been
positively eliminated. To free a stuck compressor, use
your hermetic analyzer according to the
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
Personally I would undo the 4 bolts that hold the upper unit (outside) to lower unit (inside) , then with circuit breaker off & confirmed that no power to it, take cover off for hydro connection, and unhook those wires, and unclip harness from connector to upper unit, to allow for removal of the lower & upper unit, then remove both upper & lower and cover the hole for now until you decide on whether or not your going to fix the roof supports in that area. I'd cut a 16" square piece of painted plywood or fairly stiff aluminum, add a good thick bead of sealant (not silicone, it doesn't last long) to the area where you see the gasket was seated & screw the cover right to the roof for a temporary fix. Make sure you attach screws close to where gasket would be under your cover, (about 1"-1-1/2" in from edge of 16" cover) so that the holes will be covered later when AC unit put back on, by the gasket of the AC unit. Make sure you put maretts back on hydro wires & add some electrical tape over them as well to keep maretts on while traveling for now. Don't know how handy you are, but fixing that over the winter may not be as bad as you think. If you need advice later, get back to me/us.
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
Make and model of unit should be on base of roof assy, please reply with that so we can be sure we have right wiring info for you. Although they are pretty common, let's be sure.
Posted on Aug 02, 2010
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