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Water system pace arrow motorhome

Parents haven't used their motorhome for 2 years & have forgotten where the switch is to turn on the pump that pumps their water to sinks,stool & shower from the holding tanks.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: cold water suply filling up header tank in loft thru hot water suply on shower.

hi did you run a seperate cold water supply from the storage tank to the shower pump & also a seperate hot supply from the hot water cylinder, it sounds as though the cold water is crossing into the hot service & pushing its way up to the tank as its the only way it can go, sounds as though the cold water connection to the shower is not tank fed & possibly directly off the water main.?

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

  • 28 Answers

SOURCE: under sink tank on older water filter onlyy

I am assuming based on your description that the system you have is a reverse osmosis system. If this is true, you most likely need to recharge the air pressure in your RO storage tank. I have included step-by-step instructions below. If you find that your tank is not holding air or the tank will not empty completely, the bladder inside the tank may be broken and the tank will need to be replaced. I have included a link to our selection of RO tanks as well. To recharge the tank you will need a bicycle tire pump and a tire gauge that will be capable of reading below 10 psi. If you don’t have one that reads in single psi increments, then a meter that starts at 5 psi will work.

1) Close the cold water feed valve (if you can’t locate this on your system, you may be able to turn off the cold water to your sink)
2) With the RO tank valve on, locate the valve stem on the bottom or side of the tank. (this will look like the air stem on a bicycle or car tire)
3) Remove the stem cap.
4) Drain all water out of tank through open RO faucet into sink. (Continue to leave the RO
faucet open throughout the entire procedure)
5) If the current tank pressure doesn’t empty the tank, apply tire pump to valve stem
and pump a few times. Flow will increase and then gradually decrease as
pressure equalizes. Do not overcharge the bladder during this procedure.
6) Repeat step #4 and #5 until tank is completely empty. (Tank is empty when additional
pumping produces no more water)
7) At this point, adjust EMPTY tank to exactly 7psi. (Gauge reading midway between 5
& 10psi is sufficient)
8) Turn off RO faucet.
9) Replace cap on valve stem
10) Open cold water feed valve.
11) The water is useable immediately; however, tank will take a few hours to completely fill.

Geoff D., CWS-I - WQA Certified Water Specialist
Fresh Water Systems, Inc - 1.877.335.3339

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

  • 60 Answers

SOURCE: Problem with Convertible Jet Pump 3/4HP RedLion -

If I understand you correctly this is what you have:

- A pump that draws water from a lake 300 feet from lake to your cabin (I assume the pump is at the cabin)

- The pump kicks on to maintain pressure in a tank that distributes water to faucets in the cabin. The pump only turns on to pressurize the tank when water is being used (I am assuming).

- When you turn on tap, pressure in the pressure tank drops to 30 psi, then you hear water sucking from the tank to tap and flow stops at tap. Then the pump finally kicks back on and pressures tank to 23 psi.

- The pump is not used regularly.

If water flow stops when the pressure tank is reading 25 psi, then likely the real pressure is 0 psi and pressure gauge is reading wrong. If this gauge is tied into a switch that starts and stops the pump, then this is probably your problem. You may have partial blockage in your pressure gauge/switch that is causing gauge to move too slowly to keep up with the actual pressure changes when water is being used. Ore the pressure gauge/switch may be broken. Pressure gauges are notorious for reading pressure when there is none. If you can unplug the pump and disconnect the pressure gauge/switch and check for blockage in the ports you should start there. You mentioned that this worked good for the last two summers, if if sits unused for long periods, it could promote bio-growth, rust and/or sediment in the connection to the pressure gauge. If you find blockage, remove it and flush it out. Reinstall the pressure gauge/switch and try it again.

One other possibility is clogged strainer(s) / filter(s) in the water lines. It would not hurt to pull and check/clean any strainers / filters in the system including before the pump. I would even check at the lake for a strainer where the water enters the suction line to the cabin.

I would not assume that the pump is the problem yet.

Hope this helps.

Posted on May 01, 2010

  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: water pump keeps on running my mastercraft jet

yOU NEED A FLOAT SWItch to have the pump work unattended. I have two new switches and no use for them, Where are you?

Posted on May 26, 2010

  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Powerstar Electric

Tankless heater are a little frustrating sometimes but this is generally an issue of waterflow I believe. The fluctuations are do probably to the amount of water and rate of water going through the heater. If you have a shut off valve on the cold side of the heater, shut it back about half way. This will slow the water going through the heater and allow the heater to heat it up more efficiently. Then go to the shower, turn the hot on all the way (no cold) and allow it to heat up. Once it has heated up, test it by hand for a good temperature that you like. If it is too hot, turn the cold on just a bit until it comes to the temp you like. If it is too cold turn the hot down just a little (still no cold) and it will warm up. Ideally you should be able to turn the hot on full blast and then just turn on a little cold to get the right temp. Once you learn how these work then it makes it easier. You really cant run the water like you do with conventional hot water systems and expect to get the same results. Also, wanted to give you another little tip. Every 6 mos to a year, you should flush you heater with vinegar for about 30-45 minutes using a small cheap submerible pump like for a water feature in a garde. Just put in a bucket of vinegar and and run a hose to the "in" side of the heater and another from the "out' side of the heater and then back into the bucket. This will circulate the vinegar inside the heater and clean all the deposits that will DOA your heater. Funny how the manufacturer wont tell you this but these deposits will ruin the connectiosn on the heating elements. You can make your heater last for a long time if you do this.

Posted on Mar 27, 2011

Testimonial: "Thanks, this info helped me to remember what Bosch Tech support sort of told me 2 yesrs ago. I'll try the vinegar as well. Thanks, again."

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