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try powering off, removing contents from the container, refill using less contents and push the contents to the bottom plate. Turn power on. If beeping stopped it will work. Another thing to try is turning the rubber gear on the base or bottom of the container slightly then put container back on the base, as before do this while power is off at the power point for safety. Regards Greg T. My mother bought one and Ive had to step in as Im the only one to make it work. Hope this helps you. I am about to go past for the 3rd time of her using this device to see if I can help do a re-heat as she made a soup and its now not playing ball again 4 her. Forced to contact the distributor of course!
Something sticky is in the threads... Try very hot water in the sink as a start, while boiling some water on your stove. With the glass and plastic preheated, install them to the blender base which must be unplugged for the rest of this adventure. Pour the boiling water in, only to about 1/3 of capacity. Install the top cover to protect from the hot water. Hold the glass by the handle and with a rubber glove on the opposite corner or pour spout side. Hold high to avoid the heat from the water. Have a large burly man hold the blender base so that you may twist the glass container counter-clockwise. Stop as soon as it starts to turn the plastic ring off...and go the the sink... Continue after pouring out the hot water. Remember that his procedure is likely to cause broken glass or broken plastic and exposure to scalding hot water. If those risks are acceptable you should still take precautions to protect your flesh. Otherwise order a replacement ring and pitcher for the blender.
Check the dryer dual-breakers in the house electrical panel--push off, then on. If no help, check for ~230 volts AC at the two slanted slots in the dryer power socket. If ok, the problem is likely the heating element(s) in back of the drum are burned out or the internal thermostat is open. To remove the drum, remove the top (push a thin putty knife rearward at each front corner to release latches) and then the front panel. The belt must be released (from inside the lower back) and the rear center screws of the drum removed. When the drum is removed, it gives access to the elements and temp control switches. Be sure to vacuum out all air passages and wash the lint filter in hot water and detergent to remove fabric softener deposits. Don't forget the air exit hose to the outside. Replace the belt on reassembly if heat damaged or badly worn. Hope this helps!
Repairing the blender: My guess: You worked the motor too hard on your last blending session and it overheated. That will cause a thermal fuse inside to cut off. The blender won't work again until you replace the fuse but otherwise it should be fine. The fuse looks like a white diode and it will be attached tightly to the motor with a nylon strap (so that it can pick up the heat of the motor). The leads to the fuse are shielded with heat resistant nylon wrap. You will need to remove the rubber drive gear in order to remove the plastic house so you can work, although if you are really handy you might be able to at least test the unit by only removing the plastic bottom on the base unit.
To remove the plastic housing, remove the little rubber feet and then remove all of the screws on the bottom of the unit. You may need to buy a bit set for tamper resistant screws (I ***hate*** those), I don't remember. When the bottom is removed, you will see that the there is a screw head on the bottom of the central motor shaft. You can use a screw driver here to hold the motor from turning, then you can carefully use a pliers to unscrew the rubber drive gear on the top of the base unit (try not to damage the rubber). With the gear removed you can get access to the wires.
To test the fuse unit, just check its continuity. Short=good, open=bad. To further test, short out the fuse with a jumper cable and your blender should work.
EPO (Electronics Parts Outlet) in Houston, TX, has the replacement fuse unit. I don't know that they like mail order.
Check the motor brushes. They may be worn out. Also, since the 1980s, many electric motors have a thermal fuse in them. This unit "blows" when it gets to a certain temperature.
This fuse looks like a 22-caliber bullet and its pointed end is usually colored. If you have an ohmmeter or continuity checker, see if current will pass through the fuse. If not, you can try to replace it. Most times, the fuse is attached with crimp-on connectors. Replacements can be soldered in, if you put a clip-on heat sink between the fuse body and the soldering iron.