Question about Washing Machines
Replaced coupler, motor, capacitor, lid swtich still only a buzz. pulled motor out and kept plugged into electric and hit switch and only buzz will not turn motor. check outlet its at 120
Make this test and fix it. God bless you
First you will need to identify if you have a direct drive type or a belt drive. The later is obvious if you have belts under your machine it is a belt drive, if not it is a direct drive. Also there are 2 basic agitator types with some variances among them. The 2 piece and the single.
The agitator dogs are in the 2 piece type of agitator. These wear out over time. They also break and can cause noise. To inspect and replace the agitator dog .
Agitator Coupling / Spline
The other type depending on age of your machine use a spline. Newer GE types have a coupling that gets stripped out and the older GE type has a spline directly on the agitater that gets stripped out. You will need to remove the agitator. The dispenser usually pulls right out. This will give you access to the bolt that holds the agitater down. Remove the bolt, then place your fingers under the agitator and pull up. This can take some force. A belt slid under the agitater can also work. Once off you will see if it is stripped or not.
If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke.
This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to the transmission. The following video will walk you through the replacemente motor coupler.
The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise the problem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your problem could be with your transmission, which is located directly above the drive belt pulley under the wash tub. If they go bad, your motor will still function normally, but the wash tub will not spin or agitate. Now, another possible problem could be a nail or screw stuck in one of the wash basket holes pressing against the outer tub. I have personally seen this a couple of times. A dry wall screw or nail will stop the wash tub from spinning and cause the drive belt to smoke as the motor pulley turns, but the belt stays stationary. That could be the source of your smell. If you're a do-it-yourselfer or do a lot of carpentry work, you may have washed some clothes with a nail or screw in them. Inspect all the holes in the wash basket throughly. A nail or screw can easily be missed if your not looking for it. I hope this may help you.
Posted on May 04, 2007
SOURCE: Kenmore 80 series won't spin
If it is draining then the motor is turning the pump so it is ok.
This washer has no belt so that is not the problem.
Remove the cabinet and bypass the lid switch wires and put into a spin. Watch the clutch to see if it is turning. If the clutch housing is not turning and you know for sure the coupler is not broken then you need a new transmission. If the clutch housing is turning but the basket is not spinning you have something binding the basket or you need a new basket drive and clutch.
If you have only looked at the coupler from underneath you may not be able to tell if it is broken in the center. If it is broken again your transmission is not staying in neutral drain until the water is drained. That means it is going into spin with full load of clothes and water. This puts a lot of pressure on the coupler and causes them to fail prematurely. If this is the case you will need a new transmission.
Post back if you have any questions.
Posted on Nov 05, 2007
This is the electronic washer. Unplug for two minutes, plugin then open and close lid 7 times. This will reset motor. Also make sure belt is not broken.
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
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