Question about Dryers
After approx 30 secs dryer causes RDC to trip.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Not drying
I had the same problem with my dryer.
MAKE SURE THAT POWER IS OFF AND PLUG IS UNPLAGED AT WALL
On the back of the dryer there is a white metal cover in the centre with two philips screws. Once removed you will see metal box which has elements like a toaster built inside it.
You will see two sensors sticking out of top of metal box. The left one is the sensor for safety cut out in event of the dryer sensor on the right stopping working and letting the dryer overheat.
If you disconnect the left sensor 2 crimps and put multimeter on the left sensor two pins and if the meter beeps on continuety the sensor is ok. but if no beep the sensor is bad.
If sensor bad you can tempary bypass the sensor by joining the two cables together and try running dryer on a program and if heats up you know that you need to get new sensor.
WARNING! IF YOU LEAVE THE LEFT SAFETY SENSOR BYPASSED IF THE RIGHT HAND SIDE SENSOR MALFUNCTIONS THE TEMPERATURE WILL RISE AND CAUSE SERIOUS DAMAGE OR FIRE. THE PURPOSE OF THE RIGHT HAND SENSOR IS WHEN THE DRYER HEATS UP TO HEAT IT CUTS OUT AND WHEN DROPS DOWN IT HEATS UP AGAIN SAME AS AN OVEN.
You can maybe buy sensor from a meile dealer or RS COMPONENTS have the same sensor for £3.35 each.
NOTE: I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILY FOR DAMAGE OR INJURY IN MY ADVICE FOR REPAIR OF DRYER.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
SOURCE: Miele Dryer heater bank
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
have the neutral power connection on that circuit and back to the main house panel and then have the neutral connection checked at the power companies side also, it sounds like you have a high resistance neutral connection somewhere in the circuit and its looking for another return path due to the high resistance on the line to another feed circuit line to make connection
Posted on Dec 07, 2009
Probably a clogged condenser. With the condenser full of lint the dryers ability to work right is greatly diminished. Remove and clean the condenser.
These are relatively new in my area. I have posted Miele service manuals for washer and dryer HERE.
Posted on Nov 03, 2010
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