Question about Frigidaire FGF368GC Stainless Steel Range
Control panel for oven stopped working. Checked outlets. They are fine. No power at all. Can't turn on oven, set temp, time or clock. We did have storms in the area today.
Hi Jo, thank you for your question! Let's try resetting the appliance by either unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker to the off position. It is important to wait roughly ten minutes and then turn the unit back. If resetting the power does not correct the issue, your range could possibly have a faulty EOC (electronic oven control) or a potential wiring failure. I would suggest contacting an experienced service technician to determine the precise cause to reduce the risk of unnecessary parts.
Posted on Jul 25, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
We tested the EOC and it will indeed need a replacement. Also, just a couple weeks prior we ran the "clean" mode on the oven as did another poster who experienced the "pop" and loss of the control board/oven function, but still had stove top function.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
THAT CODES MEANS EITHER THE PROBE SENSOR OR THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL IS BAD. UNPLUG. WITH WIRING DIAGRAM AND OHM METER, TEST THE TWO WIRES GOING TO PROBE. IF YOU GET ABOUT 1100 OHMS, YOU HAVE A BAD CONTROL. IF YOU GET 0 OR INFINITY, IT'S THE SENSOR OR THE WIRES BETWEEN THE PROBE AND THE CONTROL
BOYNISMO@YAHOO.COM OR 714-334-1998. I CAN WALK YOU THROUGH IF NEEDED
Posted on Jan 14, 2010
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This means a
loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the oven temp. sensor itself is
bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue test the oven temp. sensor, it
should read between 1080-1120 ohms, if the rating is more then that and the
door appears to be closing fine then it is the control board that is bad and
should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
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