Using a block or dowel of wood(maybe rubber mallet also), depress the top cap of the cylinder to relieve tension on the ring.
Use a small edged screw driver or pick and spin "retainer" in until the bent end comes to the opening.
Lift up and rotate the ring more to allow the ring to pass over the edge of the opening.
Once the retainer is started you can tap it with the wood and rubber mallet around the circumference of the cylinder to release the retainer from the groove.
If you havent done so by now the oil should be drained.
with the cylinder firm in vise(but not too firm to "distort the integrity of the cylinder.) Place the cylinder Sideways so you can pull out piston and rod assembly.*** Put hose or suitable drain on holes of cylinder***. With the motion of the piston the residual oil will tend to spray out.
Pull on the piston and position it to bottom out on the top gland(cap) ie:full extension
Place support under the rod to avoid damage. The gland is a tight tolerant fit with use of O-rings and backup rings. Too much offset can lead to damaging gland assembly, and jamming in the cylinder. You may be able to just hold with hand also depends on size, bore, stroke, pressure rating. Use due dilligence.
Now that its out you have the piston assembly with gland in hand..**if only the rod comes out there are more steps to take, and you need a new rod but sometimes its more cost effective to buy a new cylinder. If there is a farm supplier or hydraulic dealer near they can certifiably /replace repair the cylinder for you. Hydraulic pressure is kind of like lightening. If it strikes you under pressure it can kill you.*** Using the dead blow or rubber mallet try to pop the gland out by using the piston/rod assembly as the puller. You may not have to remove the top clevice or other end of the cylinder, so maybe you could tap on that.
The piston can be removed from the rod depending again on make. Usually a socket head cap screw or king nut holding it in place to the rod.
When the piston is removed you should be able to slide gland off also.
You'll need that pick and or the screwdriver to pick out the seals carefully. Let me know if you require more...WF Services
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has the head gasket failed already or are you surmising that it will happen soon
having the head studs re-tensioned would help reduce the possibility of it happening as the studs are small in diameter and can stretch and loose tension
it would be advisable to check the valve clearance as B&S valves tend to stretch and that makes start when hot difficult
Removal and replacement fairly straight forward, you just need to prevent the engine crankshaft from turning. This can done either holding the flywheel or using a piston stop. Also some clutches have a set of flats that a 1-3/8 open end wrench will fit.
When reinstalling the center bolt torque to 50-55 ft-lbs. Also make sure the anti-rotation device is engage into clutch assembly or it will rip the wires out at the first startup.
TORQUE SPEC FOR ROD BEARING BOLTS 19 - 24 FT LBS TORQUE SPEC FOR MAIN BEARING BOLTS 60 - 70 FT LBS, CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT 85 - 100 FT LBS. MAIN BEARING OIL CLEARANCE .0005 - .0022 CONNECTING ROD OIL CLEARANCE .0008 - .0015 / SHAFT END PLAY .004 - .008 / AND ROD SIDE CLEARANCE IS .004 - .011 HOPE THIS HELP THIS INFORMATION I GAVE YOU IS INLINE 6 -200 AND INLINE 6 - 250 ENGINES
valve clearance is .014 inch for intake and exhaust with engine warm.
head torque it 21 ftlbs, then 44 ftlbs, then loosen all, torque to 89 inchlbs, then to 21ftlbs, then mark and turn the bolts an additional 60 to 65 degrees.
cyl head sub bolts torque 80 to 100 inchlbs.
Hi I'm Dane, and I'm going to help you solve you problem. Glad to finally get this answered for you. The piston should be set to top dead center on the compression stroke. Adjust the valves when cold to .004 Intake and .006 Exhaust. Torque spec is 61" lb .If you found this reply helpful, please leave me some THUMBS UP if you think I'm deserving! :-) Thank you! Dane
Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. These torques are from the Kohler Service manual for the
There are 5 bolts.... as you look at the bolts there should be 3 on the left side
Bolt 1 is the center (offset bolt)
Bolt 2 is upper right
Bolt 3 bottom left
Bolt 4 upper left
Bolt 5 lower right.
Torque them in the sequence above... to 15 Ft lbs. or 180 inch lbs
reset your torque wrench and then torque them to 30 Ft lbs or 360 inch lbs.
Rocker arms center nuts (called mounting screws) are first torqued to 55 inch lbs then to 100 inch lbs.
Then to set the valve lash you back off the set screw lock nut torque and set the valve lash to .003 - .005 final set screw lock nut torque is 65 inch lbs. Engine must be at TDC i.e piston all the way to the top to make the correct adjustments.