Question about GE JVM1651 Microwave Oven
2-day complete power outage due to severe rain/wind/lightning storm with subsequent Power Surge. When Power was restored, Microwave CONTROL PANEL showed no display, no power. Circuit Breaker did NOT trip. Receptacle that unit was plugged into tested fine. Basic visual inspection behind Control Panel shows nothing unusual. Is it even possible that any of the 3 fuses within are designed to protect this Amana Model against a power surge? The same surge killed the digital display on the G.E. Electric Range positioned below it rendering the oven portion inoperable but sparing the stovetop coils which are fully functional (temperature control dials are analog).
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Some buttons work, some don't.
The keypad may be bad. Most often they go bad due to moisture from cleaners being sprayed directly on them or steam from the cooktop when the vent fan is not used.
They can also go bad when the unit is stored in an unheated environment where there's a lot of air temperature change (hot during the day, cold at night, etc.)
It may also be some residue on the connections where the keypad plugs into the control board. Unplugging then replugging the keypad can sometimes clean them.
In other cases, a new keypad is needed.
If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
Posted on Nov 18, 2007
Even if there is an internal fuse, I doubt if that is the problem since as you posted, there is display albeit "XXXXX" which indicates that power is coming in. Should you still be interested, the fuse would normally be on the top right part inside an aluminum plate (air guide bracket) covered by the grill right above the door.
You can try a hard reset hoping that it is just a software glitch by unplugging from the mains for an hour or so to dissipate whatever electricity is stored inside. assuming ho hardware fault, this should revert the unit back into factory defaults.
If the fuse appears OK and the reset does not prove to be corrective, then it is likely that the electronic circuit board inside has been fried. Since this involves a bit of familiarity with electronic components and circuitry, use of a DVM and possibly soldering, perhaps your best bet would be to seek the services of a qualified professional. Alternately, should you venture a DIY, you could try asking for parts replacement and further instructions from here.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Jun 27, 2008
This seems like a problem with with the door latch circuitry HW. If the unit is still in warranty, call GE customer care. If not, your neighbor will need to buy a new oven. Service on microwave ovens is not cost effective because the replacements are so reasonable and have so many new features.
I have a lot of experience with these units. If the door latch circuitry is in question you may be exposed to dangerous microwave energy. Hope this helps...
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
You will need to remove the top grill vent first, then you can remove the screws coming in from the top of the grille vent then that will expose a screw holding down the control panel at the top. Remove the screw and remove the control panel. The fuse is located in a little 1" fuse holder just behind the front panel near the top.
Posted on Feb 05, 2010
Testimonial: "That's helpful to know. Found a similar feedback, "is usually a 15 amp Cerramic fuse (white color). Appliance parts places usually carry it.thanks"
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