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I was using my Singer Serger and the left needle bent and broke. I put in a new needle and re- threaded and it won't stitch. I've re- threaded more than five times and the problem remains. The machine works, everything moves, but when I put the fabric it doesn't stitch, it makes 2 straight lines in the beginning but then gets all tangled and doesn't makes any more stitches. Should I take it to a repair shop?

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  • Sewing Machines Master
  • 1,564 Answers

Yes.

Posted on Jul 24, 2013

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Singer serger 10uj13 overredging sitch skipping


SKIPPED STITCHES ON A SERGER

1. Is the needle bent or worn--replace

2. Is the needle inserted correctly into the needle holder--check needle

3. Is the Serger threaded correctly--rethread

4. Is the presser foot pressure right for the fabric--adjust

Aug 14, 2013 | Sewing Machines

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Troubleshooting/Frequently Asked Questions
Please click on any question below to display the corresponding answer.

Basic Tips for All

  1. Always turn the handwheel TOWARDS you (counter clockwise) as turning it in the opposite direction (away from you, clockwise) may knock the timing out requiring repair from a service center.
  2. Always be sure your presser foot is in the DOWN position before sewing. Sewing with the presser foot in the up position will cause your thread to tangle and your bobbin to jam.
  3. Change needles regularly (after 16 hours of use) as dull/weak needles can cause damage to your machine and fabric. Only use SINGER needles on your SINGER sewing machine.
  4. Always be sure you are using the correct bobbin for your machine. Class 66, Class 15 and Class 15J bobbins look very similar. However, using the incorrect bobbin class in your machine can cause damage.

on May 24, 2015 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Singer featherweight fw75


You may need to override the current selection by selecting next design , then get back to your original design selection again. And this should work. However if still not working, just switch off your machine and after awhile put it on again. Hope this will help.

Jul 24, 2013 | Sewing Machines

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Serger problems


I love/hate my serger! Is thread stuck anywhere below? Bent needles? Are the needles in correctly and tightly? Is the machine greased? Unthread it, rethread. After all of this, it should work. Good luck. My simple old singer didn't do this but it wore out and the Viking is temperamental!

Jun 04, 2013 | Sewing Machines

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Singer Stylist 11 Serger problems with right need skipping stitches how can I solve the problem


SKIPPED STITCHES ON A SERGER
1. Is the needle bent or worn--replace
2. Is the needle inserted correctly into the needle holder--check needle
3. Is the Serger threaded correctly--rethread
4. Is the presser foot pressure right for the fabric--adjust

Jan 04, 2013 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I 've been using this 2639 Singer since 2006. It was working perfect until one day the bobbin case popped up away from the shuttle causing the needle to be blocked from moving. So, I removed the p


First change that needle. It's likely bent. A bent needle won't create a stitch.

Then double check your timing. It sounds like you have it ******** a bit... But that's hard to determine from a description. Before you start the timing process, make sure that your needle bar is in the correct position. (typically the upper timing mark on the needle bar is just below the lower needle bar guide when the needle is at its very lowest point) If necessary loosen the needle bar holder and make a correction. Once the needle bar is positioned correctly... then move on to the shuttle/needle timing.

Good luck!

Nov 03, 2012 | Singer Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Singer 756u stitches not catching


So this is a serger? Might have been nice to know that. Make sure you have threaded your serger in the correct order. upper looper, lower looper, needles from right to left.

Make sure you do this with the presser foot lever in the UP position. Make sure all the threads are pulled fully into any tension guides.

Sep 01, 2012 | Singer Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How to thread a singer serger overlock machine


you can visit the Singer website and download a pdf manual from there. Link is http://www.singerco.com/accessories/instruction-manuals, type the manual number into the search field and click "search" then wait for the screen to build. There should be a red box "Download now" beside your model, click on this then again wait a while as the pdf file will be large. Once it opens to your screen you can save it to your PC, then print it out and bind or staple it up.

Threading a serger is completely different to a sewing machine and you will find a set of tweezers and a wire loop are invaluable. If these are not in your machine kit, then you should be able to buy from a sewing centre. You need to thread up in the sequence shown in the manual. For a four thread stitch this is probably upper looper, lower looper, then the two needles. But check the manual as it may be different on yours. Many sergers will have a threading diagram inside the front looper cover and this really helps until you get used to the machine. If you have cone holders in your kit put these onto the spool holders to keep the cones steady. Take the thread from the cone up to the aerial loop, down into the top loop, around the tension dial ensuring the thread has seated in correctly, then follow the threading guide down through the looper eyes and across to the stitching bed. Repeat for each thread path, then pull all four threads under the raised presser foot, lower the foot and chain off. Test stitch on fabric and look at the stitch, then adjust the tension dials for the loopers if needed. Needle tension shouldn't need changing usually.

Also check the manual to see if your model takes standard 130/704H needles, many do. But some sergers need a EL needle, its just a little longer. If you primarily plan to stitch knits on yours, then use ball point needles to stop stitches skipping. Otherwise sharps are fine, normally size 80 or 90. You won't need to change the needles as often as you do on your sewing machine but change if the stitch quality starts to go off.

And remember, always lift the aerial up to full height when you start to use the machine each time. The thread flows very fast through these machines and you need the aerial up high to give clearance for the cones so the thread can run off them smoothly.

Its a really good idea initally to thread up in 4 different thread colours and then you can diagnose the thread formation and see which thread to adjust tensions to get a good overlocked seam. Factory settings are usually 5 on all four tension dials but check your manual to double check this. Many times if you change colour thread, you can just knot on the new colour at the cone, turn the tension dial to zero then pull that thread through. This works fine for the loopers and on the needles, you just need to cut the knot off and thread the needle with the new colour. Then turn tensions back to normal setting, put the thread under the foot and chain off.

And if you do have a Singer dealership near you, perhaps see if they have a serger class as there is a few techniques that are so much easier to learn when shown; such as stitching into a right angle or turning an outside square corner and how to finish of the thread tails at the end of a seam.

There is also some good pages of info on the www.sewing.about.com website, Debbie covers overlockers/sergers there and gives good photos and info as well as free projects.

I trust this helps you get started with your Singer Overlocker.

Oct 05, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

2 Answers

How do you lengthen stitch. The stitches are so close together it looks like a satin stitch. I have no manual for it. thanks!


your machine should have a stitch length dial on the right hand side above the flywheel, it might have numbers from 0.5 to 3 or 4, higher number for longer stitch (effectively this moves the foot and feed dogs faster in relation to the needles to make the stitch longer).

If you have the Serge Pro SW432 that your enquiry is linked to and you have not used a serger before, then definitely get hold of the manual, you will need it. Sergers are very different to sewing machines - once you've mastered one, its easy, but there is a learning curve.

Firstly, ALWAYS extend the thread aerial up, you'll see loads of images of sergers sitting nicely with the aerial in the lowered position, great for moving them to avoid damage. But they won't work well, a serger seams at 1500 stitches per minute and the thread streams off the cones so you need to ensure there is a good clear feed via the aerial to the tension dials.

Buy good quality thread cones and keep it out of the sun and dust. Cover your machine when not in use (lower the aerial first). You could start with white, grey and black thread as this will cover a lot of fabric prints/colours etc. To change thread colour, you will need to cut and knot on the new thread for the two loopers (right hand side cones) - do this about 6 inches above the first thread guide, and then chain off to feed these through down to the needle plate, when you see the new colour come through okay, stop. Repeat the process for the needle thread or threads (3 or 4 thead depending on what stitch you are sewing) but stop chaining when the thread knot is above the needles. Stop, loosen these tension dials and pull the thread down, cut out the knot with scissors and thread the new colour through the two needles. Use threading wires if you have them, or tweezers. Pull both these and the two looper threads together under the pressure foot, lower the foot, turn your tension dials back to 5 and chain off. The thread sequence is important, mostly top looper, bottom looper, then needles, this is so much easier demonstrated than explained.

If you can find a classroom/shop offering overlocking user lessons, go take a couple, its well worth the money. Otherwise go to you-tube and watch all the videos you can search on sergers, threading, etc.

Good luck with your serger, please respond with 4 thumbs if this has been helpful to you. :-)

May 19, 2011 | Simplicity Serge Pro SW432 Mechanical...

1 Answer

I have a new Viking Huskylock S25 and the serger tensions are off and I cannot get them adjusted.


How do you mean the tension are off? A serger should have 3 or 4 tension knobs (although yours looks like it is push button digital settings) and generally from new these will produce a standard stitch when all are set to 5. Are you sure that you've got the thread pulled into the tension discs fully? Check each one by pulling on the thread below the tension disc and feel for resistance, if the thread pulls very easily, then recheck and thread again.

Have you got the thread aerial raised up to the full height? Remember also to put the plastic cone holders under the thread cones as you want the cone to stay still and the thread to feed off it - it does this very fast, sergers sew at 1500 stitches per minute so the thread streams off the cones very quickly.

Using a serger is quite different to a sewing machine and your model looks like its one of the later computerised ones with multiple stitch options including coverstitch. I'd suggest that you go back to your dealer and ask to spend time with them for a demo, thread up in front of them for pointers or take a class to familiarise yourself fully with the machine. Then go home again, break out the manual, and go through threading up from scratch several times until you've got it off pat. Remember to thread top looper, bottom looper, left needle, right needle in this sequence always, then pull all threads under the foot, lower pressure foot and serge off a short chain. To change colour thread, you can always cut and knot on new threads, turn tension down and pull through the loopers, but you've got to thread the needles fresh each time you change colour.

There is some good videos on You-tube, Nancy Zieman has a several and she's also written several books on using a serger and obviously the manual is first point of reference.

Each fabric will behave differently so for each new fabric, you will need to adjust tensions and move the blade to get it stitch and just encasing the cut edge at a suitable width. To work out how it should look, break out some ready to wear garments and have a look at those seams, then test and practice with your machine to get a similar stitch. Always test serge two thickenesses if you are going to use it to construct your garments and pull open from the right side to ensure the needle thread is tight enough so the seams don't pull open under wear.

Good idea to keep your test seam samples in a notebook and write down the settings you used for reference next time. I have to say, I've done flatlock with silky decorative thread once in 19 years - but I do know how to set up the machine for this. However, rolled hem with wooly thread is very useful and I often use this to edge hems. I'm envious of your coverstitch option, this is great for hemming and necklines and is something early sergers didnt do.

Just checked out this model on an Ebay vendor's site and it mentions a training DVD, you've got several different stitch types to master with this machine so there will be some learning and practice involved to get it right. Good luck - I hope this is of some help but I'd be visiting the dealer for specific help if you can.

Apr 29, 2011 | Sewing Machines

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