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You don't give any details of any work or checks already carried out...
Perhaps you mean the engine runs ok at speed but will not idle?
Perhaps you mean it cuts out while it is working - as if it has been switched off?
Perhaps it fades out and progressively loses power until it stops?
Please be specific and help us to help you.
There are many possibilities and insufficient room to discuss them all here but most commonly it will be caused by fuel starvation due to a blocked tank breather, a partially blocked petrol tap filter or dirt or water in the carburettor.
Slightly less commonly will be spark failure.
Applying the choke, strangler or cold starting aid as the engine begins to die might cause the engine to run better for a few seconds. If that is the case it would indicate fuel starvation.
I believe that unit utilizes a centrifical clutch. try decreasing the idle speed and see if the tines stop. They should then engage as throttle is increased.
COMMON FAULT, FLOAT IN CARB CAN STICK CAUSING FUEL STARVATION REMOVE FUEL BOWL CHECK THE FLOATS FOR FREE MOVMENT {WD40} DOES THE BIKE START THEN CUT OUT OR ONLY RUN WHEN THROTTLE TURNED AND NOT IDLE. IDLE JET IN CARB COULD BE BLOCK WITH DIRT , IF DOES NOT START AT ALL CHECK YOU HAVE SPARK AT PLUG ,REMOVE PLUG FROM HEAD PUT INTO HT LEAD HOLD AGAINST ENGINE HEAD TURN ENGINE OVER YOU WILL SEE SPARK {IF YOUR UNLUCKY YOU,LL FEEL IT } HOPE YOU SORT IT OUT GOOD LUCK {FROM AN AUTO ELECTRICIAN]
if the idle is too high the tines wont stop due to the tiller tines are run by a "centrifuigual clutch" which means when you increase the throttle speed the tines will start to turn : there are 2 adjustments you can try,1) adjust the idle screw under the carburetor where the throttle adjustment and a triangle piece of metal touch(your throttle cable wire will be attached to this triangle) ,if the triangle and idle adjustment don't touch and there's a gap between these 2 pieces close the gap by adjusting the 10mm adjusting nut,this will correctly set the idle #2) adjust the idle adjustment screw talked about above till the tines dont turn with throttle set at idle or lowest speed setting
I have the same FG 100 tiller with the same problem. I did replace the carb with a brand new one and still can not get full RPM. It does try to go to full RPM, but drops back. I even checked the transmission and clutches very thing works very well.
Ok I have r Royobi Tiller (30CC Gas) And last year it ran fine after rebuilding the Carb. This year it was "hard starts" Idles fine, (Tiny whisps of blue smoke in exhaust with correct ratio) Even seems to run better with the choke "on" but still...at idle only. as soon as I touch the throttle...its bogs down in tune with how much gas I give it. Little throttle? Little bog down, Little more throttle? Almost stalls, a normal throttle rev? it stalls dead! Then starts right back up again in 1 pull and idles fine again!? WTF? So after cleaning a clean carb again, (twice) and seeing no change I thought I'd go look at the original diaphragm and compare it with the rebuild kit diaphragm (which is the one in the carb.) And guess what? The replacement has a larger rivet by a factor of "2". So basically it was flooding the carb, I bent the needle tang down, better but no cigar. But I could rev it half way now. A second disassemble to bend it yet a bit further and Vrooom vroom vrooom ****! So check your needle valve even though you think its 100%. (Especially if you rebuilt the carb with a kit!)
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