I took the dryer apart removing the drum for access. The drum turns but no heat in either heat position. Power is good and I tested the components, finding only the inline thermostat switch (in the exhaust air flow) bad, which I replaced. Still no heating of the coil. I have good continuity in all components--thermal fuse, drum thermostat switch (test w/heat-ok), and the heating coil seems okay--no breaks and I measured 11K ohms resistance. Is that about right, or can the coil be bad even with continuity??? Seems like a dumb question but I'll fish! Thanks for any help....I can't dry my clothes with all the rain down here in Miami!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hello, What you want to check is the lid switch..remove the front panel..on the switch/lid lock asm.will be the main switch which is part in the black body of the lock asm. the 2 terminals their will have contunuty with zero ohms when lid is closed
when lid closed the white switch will be open and closed when lid open
the one in the black body on the main lock asm. will be open when lid open
IF it does turn out that the lid lock is the problem the part number for it is 134101800 it could be purchased online at; repairclinic.com apdepot.com apwagner.com searspartsdirect.com midwestapplianceparts.com
If the switch checks to be good test for power into the drain pump if no power the timer is what is wrong the washer (not dryer) timer is part# 131758600
The heating element is BEHIND the dryer drum. You need to remove the drum in order to access it. Keep in mind, if you have a heat related problem, it may or may not be the heating element. It could also be the thermal cut-out (TCO) which is mounted along with the heating element. Again, you will need to remove the drum to get to it. The TCO acts as a fuse and is designed to blow to protect the heating element if it overheats. Check the TCO first to make sure it is not blown. If you need further assistance, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER. I hope this helps you.
Your model which we call the 417, is not usually easy to work on. The heating element is located behind the dryer drum. The drum has to be removed to change the element. There is a lot involved but given the cost of a stack unit the element and labor may be worth it.
White/Westinghouse, Frigidaire style
dryers ( some 417.######## Kenmore dryers
) - How to take apart: Disconnect
power first In order to test and effect
repairs on any product, you must be able to disassemble and reassemble the appliance. So
lets start with disassembly on this dryer. Unplug the dryer. Get the top up by pushing in
on 2 clips on either side as shown in this picture.
We need to remove the front of the dryer next. There are 2
or 4 screws inside at the top
on most of the older
dryers that we need to remove. Once the screws are removed, you can pull forward on the
front and lift the complete front off the 2 clips on the bottom of the dryer. Unplug
the door switch wires and set the front aside.
if you need to further dissassemble it follow the next steps Next step in disassembly is to remove the
belt from the idler and the motor pulley. This is done at the rear of the dryer. Remove
the 2 screws holding the inspection plate on the left rear of the dryer. Remove the plate.
Look carefully at how the belt threads around the
motor pulley and idler pulley
so you can replace it. Remove the belt from the motor
pulley. Return to the front of the dryer, grasp the belt in one hand and the front of the
drum in the other hand. Lift up on the rear of the drum and pull forward with the other
hand. There is a ball on the rear of the drum
that rides in a socket located in the center of the back of the dryer. You are lifting
the knob up and out of the socket. Look in the
center of this picture for the socket.
You have taken the dryer far enough apart
at this point so that you can accomplish any repairs needed on this style dryer. It is not
necessary to go this far for all repairs, but if you need to disassemble, you have the
Sounds like it is worn out. Get a parts diagram and take it apart and see what parts are missing or worn out. The belt is probably coming apart and that is the black stuff. There are several plastic wear plates and a bearing/bushing for the drum, plus the belt idler and all these can wear out. The motor could also have a bad bushing in it but more than likely that will require a new motor as they don't usually sell just the bushing or end caps.