Question about Toshiba 47" 1080p 120Hz 3D LED-LCD Smart TV 47L6200U

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My toshiba tv wont turn on

Tv powers up but stays at power up screen and green light keeps blinking

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: Toshiba 32" Color TV purchased in 1999

you're doomed.

Posted on Apr 09, 2008

  • 541 Answers

SOURCE: Flashing yellow light on power button

It sounds like the seine board. I replaced several of these. Exteded warranty would be nice in this situation. Hope you have one.

Posted on Oct 13, 2009

  • 8457 Answers

SOURCE: 42" Toshiba Plasma TV wonn't turn on

Power board require changing.It dead.

Posted on Jan 08, 2010

  • 8457 Answers

SOURCE: toshiba 32av502r lcd tv keeps

The power supply board is the problems and the causes.That the board,where the power a/c cord plug into it.Tries websites like Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy a refurbish power supply board for the replacement.

Posted on Nov 21, 2010

SD Tech
  • 14553 Answers

SOURCE: Toshiba 40in HDTV Will not come on Green light turns back off and tv powers down

This sounds like a very common issue.

If set is hard to turn on (takes several tries)but will eventually turn on hereis what my guess would be.

Every set has a standby power supplythat is running 7/24 if the set is plugged in and it supplies voltage to theremote circuit that turn on the main power supply for the tv and hence turn theset on.

This is an area where companies cut corners by using lower rated voltage caps.By this I mean Standby usually provides under 10 volts to trigger the seton----what they do is use filter caps rated at say 10 volts max in a circuitwith 9 volts (example)=with the standby on all the time the filter caps(electrolytic caps) dry out and fail.

The problem usually begins where you have to turn set on or or two times andgradually gets worse--takes longer and more tries to get it to come up.

Once on it will stay on until turned off for a period of time.

The caps will begin to work better (regain some of thecapacitance) as they get hot--hence one it is on it will seem ok.

The beauty of this problem is most of themhappen when set is a year or two old (no warranty) and all you have to do islook at the top to locate bad ones.

They are generally black or blue and round and vary in --they have twoconnections each--a + for positive and a - for negative--not unlike a batterywhich in a way they are. The + and - are marked on top and bottom of most boards.

They are easy to replace and not expensive parts.

The tops are silverand metal looking with creases on top and if bad they will be puffed up ontop---tops must be perfectly flat with no brown material leaking top or bottom.

If this is your problem once you id them (make a drawing) you can begin.

Here is the critical part---on each cap is also marked the value like 220uf 10vdc---220 micro farad at 10 volts maximum.

If you find for example 6 puffed up and all are 10 vdc replace them with thesame value capacitance (like the 220 uf) but go up to at least in this case(from 10 volts) to a 16 or higher rated voltage cap.

The only issue is when you go up in voltage rated value the cap is larger sosometimes there is an issue of physical space for the replacement on the boardto fit them in.

The reason they cheapen these sets in this way is if 10 caps and you make25,000 sets there is a considerable savings in parts cost.

They do not care as long as it lasts past the usual one year parts warranty.

I have taken the time to be long winded because this really sounds like it maybe the problem you have.

See attached photo of a typical cap and if you have questions or need advicelet me know.
4_1_2012_7_48_27_pm.jpg

Posted on Apr 01, 2012

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