Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
The "coupler" has broken twice in less than 1 year. My hope is that someone knows what adjustments/changes etc might be needed to prevent this from happening again. Could something else be out of kilter causing this to happen. Also this part is plastic. Does anyone know where a stronger coupling can be bought? (When the coupling breaks, the washer will not spin.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I need help also.
Is a lid strike permanently attached to a lid switch or the two are separate? It would help a lot if you can show a picture of each part and tell me where to purchase?
The machine and model is:
Kenmore 70 series top load washer:
Model 110 22712 100
Posted on Jun 09, 2008
The drain filter is clogged. I had the same problem. There is a filter inside the "drain boot" (black) that comes from the drum to the drain pump. Mine was completely clogged with money, lint, etc..
Posted on Oct 19, 2008
This is a relatively easy fix for the basic Kenmore / Whirlpool washers.
Please see GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission.
Follow the instructions for removing the cabinet and pulling the pump, motor and motor mounting plate.
The coupler has two plastic pieces with three prongs each. In between is the rubber coupler with six holes.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
SOURCE: kenmore 22642100 top load washer
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer.
It's likely that the brake (which stops the tub) is engaged when the clutch / transmission is removed.
A tab on the brake is engaged by the clutch spring.
If you are going to pull the transmission in order to get to the clutch (Sears has a clutch rebuild kit instead of having to buy the complete clutch assembly), I'd pull the brake and drive tube assembly also to check the brake and springs.
Following is an illustrated set of instructions on how to pull the pump, motor, transmission and brake assembly.
In order to get the agitators out, you need to remove the "Spanner Nut" and "Drive Block".
Many instructions call for a special spanner wrench to remove the nut. However,
You don't need a special spanner wrench. (About $20 retail)
I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (About $9 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and tapped the handle with a hammer to loosen it.
Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer (it's soft metal). Put a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up with a hammer.
Posted on Jan 10, 2010
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